Can-Am Defender service schedule

1. Warm the engine, park level and remove the dipstick. Hot oil burns.
2. Clean round the drain plug, remove it and throw away the old crush washer. On twins, clean metal off the magnetic plug: lots of debris means engine damage.
3. Fit a new crush washer and tighten the drain plug to 30 ± 2 N·m.
4. Remove the filter cover, take out the old filter and clean the inlet and outlet bores.
5. Oil a new O-ring and the new filter's seal, fit the filter in the cover without pinching the O-ring, and tighten the cover screws to 10 ± 1 N·m.
6. Fill with XPS oil, idle for 60 seconds, stop and check the dipstick. Top up to the upper mark; do not overfill.

Tools: Drain tray (4 L), Torque wrench, Funnel, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Open the intake silencer, remove the element and wipe the housing clean.
3. Fit a new element if it is dirty or damaged, and make sure it seals all round.
4. Check the ducts, throttle body boot and clamps.

Tools: Rag, Torch

1. Let the engine cool. Tilt the cargo box and remove the left rear deflector.
2. Remove the CVT cover screws by hand (no impact driver), centre top screw last.
3. Check the belt for cracks, glazing and width. To remove it, open the driven pulley with the puller tool and slip the belt over the fixed sheave.
4. After any belt failure clean the CVT, cover and air outlet.
5. Refit the cover, centre top screw first, and tighten the screws in sequence to 7 ± 0.8 N·m.

Tools: Screwdriver, Torque wrench, Driven pulley tool (twins: adaptor 708200720 and puller 529000088; HD7: 529036098)

1. Park level, chock the wheels and remove a wheel if needed to see the pads.
2. Replace pads in axle sets if any are down to 0.5 mm.
3. Check the discs, hoses and fluid level.
4. Refit wheels at 100 ± 10 N·m in the crossing sequence.

Tools: Torch, Jack and axle stands, Vernier or rule

1. Wipe the fittings clean: two on top of each front arm, plus the stabiliser bar bushings if fitted.
2. Pump grease in until fresh grease shows.
3. Grease again after pressure washing or deep water.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Let the exhaust cool fully.
2. Remove the tail pipe, gasket and spark arrester. Brush the carbon off gently without damaging the mesh.
3. Refit with a new gasket and tighten the tail pipe screw to 32 ± 2 N·m.

Tools: Soft metal brush, Torque wrench

1. Have a Can-Am dealer check the clearances with the engine cold (HD9/HD10 inlet 0.08–0.12 mm, exhaust 0.13–0.17 mm).

Tools: Dealer job

1. Run the vehicle (not just idle) to warm the oil, then park level in Park.
2. Clean and remove the drain plug and the level plug or dipstick, and let it drain. Lots of debris on the plug means a gearbox problem.
3. Refit the drain plug at 20 ± 2 N·m (new sealing washer on the HD7).
4. HD7: also clean the vehicle speed sensor and refit it at 10 ± 1 N·m.
5. Fill to the bottom of the level hole (HD7) or the dipstick upper mark (twins). HD7 level plug 5 ± 0.6 N·m.

Tools: Drain tray, Torque wrench, Funnel

1. Park level in Park and clean round the plugs.
2. Remove the drain plug and the filler plug and let it drip out completely.
3. Refit the drain plug at only 2.5 ± 0.5 N·m.
4. Fill with 75W-90 until it reaches the lower edge of the filler hole and refit the filler plug at 16.5 ± 2.5 N·m.

Tools: Drain tray, Torque wrench, Syringe or squeeze bottle

1. Park level in Park. Remove the right rear wheel to reach the filler plug behind the voltage regulator.
2. Remove the drain plug (through the access hole) and the filler plug and let it drip out.
3. Refit the drain plug at 2.5 ± 0.5 N·m.
4. Fill to the lower edge of the filler hole and refit the filler plug at 16.5 ± 2.5 N·m.

Tools: Drain tray, Torque wrench, Syringe

1. Let the engine cool. Remove the service cover, blow dirt from round the plugs and pull the coils.
2. Unscrew the old plugs and check the new ones are gapped as listed.
3. Screw the new plugs in by hand, then tighten to 11 N·m with a torque wrench.
4. Refit the coils firmly.

Tools: Spark plug socket, Torque wrench

1. Brake work affects your safety: if you are not experienced, have your dealer do it.
2. Use fresh DOT 4 from a sealed container and keep the reservoir topped up while bleeding.
3. Bleed each caliper until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out, then check the pedal is firm.

Tools: Brake bleeding kit, Clear tube and jar

1. Only work on a cold engine.
2. Drain and refill as your handbook describes and bleed the air out.
3. Recheck the level after the first run and once it has cooled.
4. Coolant is poisonous to animals; dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel