Can-Am Outlander 570 service schedule

1. Park on level ground. Run the engine to normal temperature, then stop it and take the key out. The oil can be very hot; wear gloves.
2. Take out the dipstick, clean round the drain plug and put the tray underneath.
3. Unscrew the magnetic drain plug (reached through the frame) and throw away its gasket ring. Let the oil drain out of the engine and filter.
4. Clean the magnet. Metal shavings or a lot of debris point to engine damage, so have it checked.
5. Fit a new gasket ring and tighten the drain plug: M12 plug 20 N·m, M18 plug 30 N·m.
6. Clean round the filter cover, remove the cover and pull out the old filter. Check the inlet and outlet holes are clean.
7. Fit a new O-ring to the cover, put the new filter in the cover, oil the O-ring and put grease on the end of the filter. Refit the cover without pinching the O-ring and tighten its screws to 10 N·m.
8. Fill with about 2.0 L of the recommended oil, start the engine and idle for a few minutes. Check for leaks.
9. Stop the engine, wait for the oil to settle and check the dipstick; top up to the upper mark only. Do not overfill.
10. Reset the maintenance message: select RES MAIN in SETTINGS and hold the button.

Tools: Drain tray (3 L), Socket set, Torque wrench (10–30 N·m), Funnel, Gloves, Rags

1. Engine off, key out. Take off the seat, lift the back of the console off its grommets and pull it back.
2. Turn the air filter cover anticlockwise to remove it (a socket wrench helps), then take out the filter.
3. Take off the left side panel and drain the air filter housing inlet drain tube. Check the dirty side of the housing; vacuum out any debris or water. Do not blow compressed air into the housing.
4. Check the clean-side drain tube too. Water or dirt on the clean side means something got past the filter; find out why.
5. Take the foam off the paper element. Tap the dust out of the paper element; never wash it or blow air through it. Replace it if it is too dirty.
6. Spray the foam with air filter cleaner, then oil it as the cleaner maker says.
7. Refit everything. Never remove or modify parts in the air filter housing; the engine is set up to run with them.

Tools: Socket wrench for the cover, Vacuum cleaner, Foam air filter cleaner and oil, Gloves

1. Only check with the engine cold. Take the key out.
2. Follow the BRP service manual to remove the covers and set each cylinder at top dead centre on compression.
3. Clearances: inlet 0.06–0.14 mm, exhaust 0.11–0.19 mm.
4. If you do not have the service manual and tools, have your dealer or a repair shop do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Service manual, Socket set

1. The engine must be cool. Never touch the CVT with the engine running, and never ride with the cover off.
2. Take off the left side and extension panels and the left footboard. Disconnect the air ducts from the CVT cover.
3. Remove the cover screws by hand tools only (no impact tools), taking the centre top screw out last. Lift off the cover and gasket.
4. Check the belt for cracks, fraying or odd wear, and measure its width at the cords. Replace it if under 30 mm.
5. To remove it, screw the puller/locking tool into the driven pulley to open it, then slide the belt over the top of the fixed sheave.
6. Fit the belt with the printed arrow pointing to the front of the quad, viewed from the top, and turn the driven pulley to seat it.
7. Do not lubricate any CVT parts except the drive pulley bearing.
8. If a belt has failed, clean out the cover, drain reservoir and air outlet before refitting.
9. Refit the gasket and cover, centre top screw first, and tighten the screws to 7 N·m in the order shown in the handbook. Reconnect the ducts.

Tools: Socket set (no impact tools), Torque wrench (7 N·m), BRP puller/locking tool 529036098, Vernier caliper, Rags

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Front: turn the bars straight ahead so the reservoir is level. It is full when the fluid reaches the top of the window. Check the lever boot for splits.
3. Rear: take off the seat and check the foot brake reservoir is between MIN and MAX.
4. To top up, clean the cap first, add DOT 4 only from a clean funnel and do not overfill. Push the cap diaphragm in before closing. Front reservoir screws: 1.3 N·m.
5. Check pads (minimum 1 mm) and discs (minimum 4.0 mm thick, maximum warp 0.2 mm).
6. Brake fluid damages plastics and paint; wipe up spills at once.

Tools: Torch, Vernier caliper, Rag, Small screwdriver

1. Work on a cold engine, key out. Take off the side panels to reach both plugs (front cylinder on the left, rear on the right).
2. Pull off the plug leads, undo each plug one turn, then blow dirt away from round the plugs with compressed air.
3. Unscrew the plugs fully with a plug socket.
4. Make sure the cylinder head seats and the new plugs are clean. Set the gap to 0.8–0.9 mm with a feeler gauge.
5. Put a little copper-based anti-seize on the threads, screw the plugs in by hand and tighten to 20 N·m. Do not overtighten; it can damage the engine.
6. Refit the leads and panels.

Tools: Plug socket, Feeler gauge, Torque wrench (20 N·m), Copper-based anti-seize, Compressed air

1. Ride the quad so the gearbox oil is warm (idling is not enough), then park on level ground and stop the engine. The gearbox and exhaust are hot: wear gloves and keep combustibles away.
2. Clean round the drain and level plugs and put the tray underneath.
3. Remove the magnetic drain plug and throw away its sealing ring, then remove the level plug and its O-ring.
4. To drain it fully, put a jack under the left footrest and tilt the quad towards the right. Let it drain, then lower it back to the ground.
5. Clean the magnet; metal shavings point to gearbox damage. Fit a new sealing washer and tighten the drain plug to 20 N·m.
6. Add 75W140 through the level hole until it reaches the bottom of the hole (about 450 ml). Do not overfill.
7. Refit the level plug with its O-ring at 5 N·m. Use no other type of oil.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (5–20 N·m), Jack, Oil pump or squeeze bottle, Gloves

1. The operator's guide gives the oils and capacities but not the drain and fill steps or torques. Follow the service manual or have a dealer do it.
2. Front differential: 500 ml of 75W90. Rear final drive: 250 ml of 75W140. Do not swap them over.
3. Work on level ground with the engine off and the parking brake on. Hot oil burns.
4. Look at the old oil: milky oil means water is getting in, so have the seals checked.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. The operator's guide does not give bleeding steps. Have a dealer or repair shop do it, or follow the service manual.
2. Use DOT 4 only, from a sealed container. Both the front (hand) and rear (foot) reservoirs need fresh fluid.

Tools: Bleed tube and jar, Ring spanner

1. The guide lists this job but not the steps; have a dealer do it if you do not have the service manual.
2. At the same time check the steering, tie rods and suspension joints for play, and the CV boots and prop shaft for damage.

Tools: Socket set, Grease, Rag

1. Only work on a cold engine. Do not take off the pressure cap or loosen the drain plug when hot: it can scald.
2. Take off the reservoir cap. Partly unscrew the coolant drain plug and drain into a container, then disconnect the lower radiator hose to drain the rest. Note where the hose clamp sits.
3. Refit the hose as it was, and refit the drain plug with a new sealing ring at 10 N·m.
4. Undo the bleed screws above both cylinders. Fill until coolant comes out of the bleed screws, squeezing the hose between radiator and pump to push out air.
5. Refit the bleed screws with new gasket rings, fill the tank to MAX, then run the engine and recheck the level when cold. Use only coolant made for aluminium engines.
6. Clean mud out of the radiator with low-pressure water. Coolant is poisonous to animals: catch it all.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Socket set, Torque wrench (10 N·m), Antifreeze tester