Can-Am Traxter T Series HD8 / HD10 service schedule

1. Park on level ground with the engine warm, not hot. Open the cargo box and take out the dipstick. Remove the passenger seats and engine service cover if you need room.
2. Put the drain pan under the engine drain plug, clean around it, undo the plug and throw away the gasket ring. Let the oil drain completely. Clean any metal from the magnetic plug: debris is a sign of internal damage.
3. Refit the plug with a new gasket ring and tighten to 30 N·m.
4. Clean around the filter cover, undo the three cover screws and take off the cover and filter. Fit a new O-ring, put the new filter in the cover and lightly oil the O-ring and filter seal.
5. Refit the cover and tighten the three screws to 10 N·m.
6. Fill with the recommended oil, check on the dipstick (engine cold, dipstick screwed in fully, then pulled out) and top up to the upper mark. Do not overfill. Run, check for leaks and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain pan (4 L), Socket set, Torque wrench (10–30 N·m), Funnel, Shop towels, Gloves

1. Open the cargo box, unlatch the air filter cover on the right-hand side and take the filter out. It fits tightly on the outlet tube: rock it gently, then twist and pull straight out.
2. Look for dust streaks on the clean side: they mean a leak. Find and cure the leak before fitting a new filter.
3. Tap heavy dust out of the paper element. Replace it if it is damaged, oily or will not come clean.
4. Refit the filter, check the duck-bill valve in the cover and latch the cover.

Tools: Soft brush, Clean rag

1. Only check the clearances on a cold engine.
2. Follow the BRP service manual to remove the covers and turn the engine to the right position.
3. Check against 0.06–0.14 mm (inlet) and 0.11–0.19 mm (exhaust) and adjust as the service manual describes.
4. If you do not have the manual and tools, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Service manual

1. Never touch the CVT with the engine running and never drive with the CVT cover off.
2. Take off the cover, look at the belt for cracks, glazing, missing teeth and fraying, and clean dust from the pulleys.
3. Check the drive pulley levers and rollers for wear and flat spots, and the hub needle bearing for play.
4. Refit the cover with all the bolts and the CVT air duct sealed.

Tools: Socket set, Clean rag

1. Wipe each grease fitting clean.
2. Give each front arm fitting (two per arm, facing up) a few pumps.
3. Grease the rear arm fittings (two per arm), the rear knuckle fittings (three) and the stabilizer bar bushings.
4. Wipe off excess grease.

Tools: Grease gun, Rags

1. Lift each wheel in turn and check for play in the steering, ball joints, tie-rod ends and wheel bearings.
2. Look at every CV and tie-rod boot for cuts and grease leaks.
3. Check the propeller shaft U-joints for play.
4. Check brake pad thickness (minimum 0.5 mm), disc condition, lines and calipers.
5. Tighten the cage fasteners and check seat belt retractors and buckles.

Tools: Jack and stands, Torque wrench, Torch

1. Find the vent filter on the fuel tank vent line (see your parts diagram).
2. Note the flow direction, pull the hoses and fit a new filter the same way round.

Tools: Pliers

1. Park on level ground in PARK. Clean around the drain plug and the oil level plug.
2. Remove the level plug and the drain plug and let the oil drain fully. Clean metal particles off the drain plug.
3. Refit the drain plug and tighten to 30 N·m.
4. Fill through the level opening until the oil is level with the bottom of it (1.5 L). Do not overfill. Refit the level plug and wipe up spills.

Tools: Drain pan, Socket set, Torque wrench, Funnel

1. Park on level ground in PARK. Clean the filler plug and the drain plug.
2. Remove the filler plug (oil should reach its lower edge when checking) and the drain plug. Drain completely.
3. Refit the drain plug and tighten to 2.7 N·m. Refill until the oil reaches the lower edge of the filler hole (400 ml).
4. Refit the filler plug with a new sealing ring, tightened to 16.5 N·m.

Tools: Drain pan, Socket set, Torque wrench

1. Let the engine cool. Remove the passenger seats and engine service cover to reach the plugs (one on each side, front and rear cylinders).
2. Blow dirt away from the plug wells, pull the caps and unscrew the plugs.
3. Set the gap on the new plugs to 0.7–0.8 mm, screw them in by hand and tighten to the torque in your handbook.
4. Refit the caps and covers.

Tools: Spark plug socket, Feeler gauge, Torque wrench

1. Use fresh DOT 4 from a sealed container.
2. Bleed each caliper in turn until clean fluid comes out, keeping the reservoir topped up.
3. Check the pedal feels firm and there are no leaks. If you are not able to bleed brakes safely, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Brake bleeding kit, Clear tube and jar, Spanner for bleed nipples

1. Only work on a cold engine. Do not open the pressure cap or drain plug hot.
2. Drain the system, flush if needed and refill with a 50/50 mix to the Max line on the expansion tank.
3. Run the engine, let it cool and top up.

Tools: Drain pan, Funnel, Socket set