Case IH Maxxum 110 / 115 / 120 / 125 / 130 / 140 Multicontroller service schedule

1. Switch off the blower and close the roof hatch, windows and one door; slam the other to shake loose dirt off the external filters.
2. Release the thumbscrew (deluxe cab) or clip (low profile cab), drop the housing and lift out the element.
3. Clean the foam pre-filter with low-pressure air, or wash it and dry it fully. Blow the main element from the clean side to the dirty side.
4. When changing, fit with the flow arrow pointing up (external) or to the rear (internal).

Tools: Compressed air (max 2 bar), Damp lint-free cloth

1. Clean each nipple first.
2. Grease: left and right lift rods (turnbuckle type), external lift cylinder (if fitted), top link, front and rear trunnion pins (standard 4WD axle), Panhard rod pivot, trunnion pin and driveshaft universal joint (suspended axle), steering cylinders, upper and lower swivel bearings (all 4WD axles), rear tow hitch, integrated front hitch (under the bonnet rubber covers).
3. Refit the rubber covers on the front hitch. Wipe off surplus grease.

Tools: Grease gun, Rags

1. Wear eye protection. Swing out the air-conditioning condenser (turn the fasteners anticlockwise).
2. Release the spring clip and pull the intercooler and oil cooler up and out.
3. Blow or wash from the back to the front: radiator first, then condenser, then driveline oil cooler. Straighten bent fins.
4. Lower the coolers back and clip them in.

Tools: Compressed air or pressure washer (max 7 bar), Eye protection

1. Front (adjustable wheels): disc to hub 210 Nm, disc to rim 250 Nm.
2. Rear flanged axle: disc to hub 260 Nm, disc to rim 250 Nm. Bar axle: split wedge bolts with cast wheel centre 300 Nm; with 10-bolt hub 500 Nm; disc to rim 250 Nm.
3. Set tyre pressures with the valve at the top. Check your handbook for pressures for your tyres and load.

Tools: Torque wrench

1. Park on level ground with all cylinders extended, engine off for at least 5 minutes.
2. Rear axle sight glass (left side): oil must sit between MIN and MAX. Do not fill above the upper mark.
3. Front differential and PTO: remove the level/filler plug; oil should reach the bottom of the hole.
4. Front hub: wheel plug at 3 o'clock; oil should reach the bottom of the hole. Repeat on the other side.

Tools: Torch, Rags

1. Chock the front wheels, jack up the rear and support it, release the brake pedal latch.
2. Apply the handbrake to the 4th notch of the ratchet. Slacken the locknuts and turn the adjusters until both wheels start to lock.
3. Release it, make sure both wheels turn freely, apply again to check and tighten the locknuts. Road test: the tractor should stop straight.

Tools: Spanners, Axle stands

1. Warm the engine, stop it, take the key out and chock the wheels. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
2. Remove the two sump drain plugs at the rear of the sump (one each side) and drain the oil. Fit new seals and refit the plugs.
3. Clean around the oil filter, unscrew and bin it. Clean the mounting face.
4. Oil the new filter seal lightly, screw it on until the seal touches, then a further three-quarters to one full turn. Do not overtighten.
5. Fill through the filler cap to the correct level on the dipstick. The dipstick marks span about 4 L.
6. Run at idle for 3 minutes, stop, check for leaks, wait 5 minutes and recheck the level between MIN and MAX. Never overfill.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Socket for sump plugs, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Clean thoroughly round both filter heads before loosening anything.
2. Open the drain tap on the pre-filter and drain the fuel into a container.
3. Unscrew the filters. Wet the new gaskets with a little oil, screw on until the gasket touches, then three-quarters of a turn more (15 Nm). Do not overtighten.
4. Fit the water drain tap again: turn until it touches, then a quarter turn more.
5. Bleed the fuel system as the handbook shows (it is self-bleeding; prime it if the engine will not start). Never open high-pressure common-rail pipes.

Tools: Filter wrench, Container for fuel, Rags

1. Stop the engine. Unlatch the three clips and lift off the cover.
2. Twist the outer element clockwise to free the seal and pull it straight out, leaving the inner element in place.
3. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp cloth. Never run the engine with the element out.
4. Fit the new element, refit the cover and latch it. If the symbol stays on, the inner element may need changing.

Tools: Clean damp lint-free cloth

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean the area around the filter and mounting plate, then unscrew and bin the filter.
3. Clean the inlet channel and filter face, smear clean oil on the new seal and screw on until the faces meet, then three-quarters of a turn. Do not overtighten.
4. Run the engine, check for leaks and check the transmission oil level.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Book it with your dealer.
2. Use only ISO 22241 AdBlue (DEF). Do not add anti-freeze or other additives.

Tools: Dealer tools

1. Clean the area. The filter is under the right-hand cab floor. Remove the two 19 mm bolts holding the guard plate.
2. Unscrew the air bleed valve fully so the oil drains back, wait, then remove the 19 mm plug and drain the casing.
3. Turn the support plate about 45 degrees left with a 41 mm socket and remove plate and cartridge.
4. Clean the plate, oil the new seal, fit the cartridge so the lug lines up with the arrow, lock the plate and close the bleed valve.
5. Run the engine and check for leaks and the oil level.

Tools: 19 mm spanner, 41 mm socket or ring spanner, Drain tray

1. Park level with the parking brake on.
2. Differential: remove the drain plug, drain, refit, then fill at the level/filler plug until oil reaches the bottom of the hole.
3. Hubs: turn the wheel so the plug is lowest, drain, then turn it to 3 o'clock and fill to the bottom of the plug hole. Repeat on the other side.
4. Front PTO: drain and fill to the level plug.
5. Refit the plugs and check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners for plugs, Oil pump

1. Remove the cover and outer element as for the outer-element job.
2. Pull out the inner element and clean the housing.
3. Fit the new inner element, seat it fully and fit a new outer element if needed. A badly seated inner element can wreck the engine.

Tools: Clean damp lint-free cloth

1. Run the engine until the oil is warm, then park level, lower the linkage, stop, apply the parking brake and chock the wheels.
2. Remove both drain plugs (under the transmission and under the rear axle) and drain everything. Refit the plugs.
3. Change the main filter cartridge first (see the filter job), then fill through the filler plug.
4. Run the engine, extend all cylinders, stop and wait 5 minutes while you check for leaks.
5. Check the sight glass on the left of the rear axle: oil between the marks, and not above the upper mark.

Tools: Drain tray (70 L), Hexagon key for drain plugs, 41 mm socket for filter plate, Oil pump

1. Engine off, key out. Inspect the belt along its whole length for fraying, cracks and cuts, and check it sits right in the pulleys and the tensioner moves.
2. To replace: remove the guards, release the tensioner, take off the belt and replace the tensioner and pulleys if damaged.
3. Fit the new belt, refit the guards and check the belt tracks properly.

Tools: Spanner for the tensioner

1. Book it with your dealer: the handbook recommends they do this job.

Tools: Dealer tools

1. Release the air pressure through the drain tap on the main air tank.
2. Loosen the guard and slide it clear, then unscrew the cartridge with a filter release tool.
3. Lightly grease the new seal and the thread, screw on until the seal touches and a further half turn by hand. Do not overtighten.
4. Build up the air pressure and check for leaks.

Tools: Filter release tool

1. Work on a cold engine. Free the vent hose and remove the valve cover.
2. Remove the breather elbow (quarter turn anticlockwise), then the thumbscrew holding the filter.
3. Remove the three screws, take out the regulator and filter, and clean the valve cover.
4. Fit the new filter and regulator (screws 5 Nm), then the cover with a new gasket (nuts 25 Nm).

Tools: Torque wrench, New valve cover gasket

1. Only work on a cold engine. Take off the recovery tank cap first, then the radiator cap, slowly.
2. Turn the heater control to maximum heat. Drain from the radiator lower hose and the block drain plug (right-hand front, near the oil filter). The special clamps have an alloy cap over the screw: lever it off with pliers.
3. Flush with a system cleaner, then with clean water for 10 minutes running. Drain again.
4. Refill slowly through the radiator neck to the bottom of the neck, then top up the recovery tank to the cold mark.
5. Run to temperature, let it cool and top up. Make sure the cab heater blows hot (no air lock).

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Pliers (to lift the cap off the hose clamps), Cooling system cleaner, Funnel

1. Book it with a dealer or air conditioning specialist.

Tools: Dealer equipment