Case IH Puma 165 / 180 / 195 / 210 service schedule

1. Wipe each grease nipple clean so dirt is not pushed in, and wipe off the excess afterwards.
2. Grease the right and left lift arms, the lift rods (the right-hand rod has no fitting if it is the hydraulically adjusted type) and the top link.
3. Two-wheel-drive axle: the outer steering parts and front hubs. Four-wheel-drive axle: the front and rear trunnion pins, steering cylinders, track rods, and the hub steering and swivel bearings (the right-hand upper swivel has a sealed bearing if a steering angle sensor is fitted).
4. Suspended front axle only: the trunnion pin, upper and lower damper pivots, panhard rod pivot, suspension arm (under the tractor in front of the transmission) and the drive shaft universal joint.
5. Grease whichever rear tow hitch or drawbar is fitted, the front hitch if fitted (three fittings on each side) and the dynamic fender pivots if fitted.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Wear eye protection and keep bystanders clear.
2. Blow or wash the cores from the back to the front, with the washer pressure no higher than about 7 bar (100 lbf/in²). Clean the radiator first, then the air conditioning condenser, then the driveline oil cooler. Tractors with a front PTO have a small extra oil cooler.
3. To reach the back of the condenser, pull the fasteners forward and swing the condenser out. To reach the coolers, release the spring clip and pull the two coolers up and out by the grab handle; they lock in the raised position.
4. Straighten any bent fins carefully. If the cores are oily, apply a detergent solution and wash it off with a pressure washer.
5. Lower the coolers, refit the spring clip and swing the condenser back.

Tools: Compressed air or low-pressure washer, Eye protection and face mask

1. Front wheels (four-wheel drive, adjustable): disc to hub nuts 210 Nm (155 lbf ft); disc to rim nuts 250 Nm (184 lbf ft).
2. Rear wheels (manual adjust, flanged axle): disc to hub nuts 260 Nm (190 lbf ft); disc to rim nuts 250 Nm (184 lbf ft). Other rear wheel types have different figures in the handbook, so check your handbook.
3. Check the tyre pressures with the valve at the bottom, and look over the tread and sidewalls for damage. Use a special gauge if the tyres are filled with calcium chloride solution.

Tools: Torque wrench (with multiplier for the larger nuts), Tyre gauge

1. Look over the whole length of the belt for chafing, cracking, cuts and general wear. If you are in doubt, fit a new belt.
2. Check the belt sits correctly on its pulleys.

Tools: Torch

1. Park on level ground with the cylinders extended and the engine off for at least five minutes. Read the level in the sight glass on the side of the rear axle housing: it should be between the high and low marks. Top up through the filler cap if needed.
2. Parking brake: jack up the rear, block the front wheels, apply the brake to the fourth ratchet notch, then turn the cable adjuster nuts until both wheels just start to lock. Release it, check both wheels turn freely, tighten the locknuts and road-test it.
3. Front PTO gearbox: remove the combined level and filler plug. The oil should reach the bottom of the hole; top up if it does not.
4. Inspect the drive belt for chafing, cracking and wear, and check the tensioner. In tropical climates also check the battery electrolyte every 300 hours.

Tools: Spanners, Rag

1. Warm the engine, then stop it. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
2. Remove the drain plug at the rear of the sump (one on either side of the engine) and catch the oil. Dispose of it properly.
3. Unscrew and discard the oil filter and catch any oil left in the head.
4. Oil the new filter's sealing ring, screw it on until the ring touches, then tighten a further 3/4 to 1 turn. Do not overtighten.
5. Refit the drain plug and fill with about 15 L of oil (including the filter).
6. Run the engine at idle briefly, stop it, check for leaks, wait a few minutes, then read the dipstick. The level must be between MIN and MAX; do not fill above MAX.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Filter wrench, Funnel, Gloves, Rags

1. Clean around the filter housing and mounting plate first.
2. Charge filter: unscrew and discard it, clean the filter face, smear clean oil on the new seal, screw on until the faces just meet, then a further 3/4 turn.
3. Main filter: on one type remove the three retaining nuts to reach the cartridge. On the other type loosen the drain plug and let the oil drain, then turn the support plate about 45 degrees to the left and lift the plate and cartridge out.
4. Make sure the plate is clean, lightly oil the sealing ring, fit the new cartridge and refit. Check the lug lines up with the arrow on the casing. Do not overtighten the nuts.
5. Run the engine, work the hydraulics and check for leaks, then recheck the oil level.

Tools: Filter wrench, Large socket for the filter support plate, Drain tray

1. Clean the area around both filter heads thoroughly.
2. Open the drain tap at the base of the primary filter and let the fuel drain into a container, then unscrew the filter from its head.
3. Oil the new filter gasket, screw it on until it touches, then a further 3/4 turn (about 15 Nm). Do not overtighten.
4. Change the secondary filter the same way.
5. Prime the system with the hand pump knob, start the engine and check for leaks. The system is self-bleeding, so normally it needs little priming.

Tools: Filter wrench, Container for diesel, Rags

1. Unlatch the cover under the left side of the hood and lift it off, then twist the outer element gently and pull it straight out without disturbing the inner element.
2. To clean between changes, tap the ends against the palm of your hand, never against a hard surface, or blow from the inside out with air under 2 bar (30 lbf/in²), nozzle 150 mm from the element, wearing eye protection and a face mask.
3. Hold the element up to a light: bin it if you see pin pricks of light or thin areas, or if the casing or rubber seal is damaged. Dust on the inside of the outer element means it has failed and the inner element should also be changed.
4. Wipe the housing with a damp, lint-free cloth on a probe without touching the inner element, refit the element and latch the cover. If the indicator stays on, change the outer element, and the inner one if needed.
5. At the same time check every clamp on the intake pipes, the intercooler connections and the exhaust aspirator connections for tightness and leaks. Do not overtighten.

Tools: Compressed air (below 2 bar), Lint-free cloth, Torch

1. Front axle: remove the combined level and filler plug; the oil should reach the bottom of the hole. Top up if it does not.
2. Hub: turn a front wheel until the level and filler plug is at the 3 o'clock position, remove it and check the oil reaches the bottom of the hole. Top up until oil just overflows, refit the plug and repeat on the other wheel.

Tools: Hexagon key, Rag

1. Run the engine and work the hydraulics until the oil is warm. Park on level ground, lower the hitch and any implement, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. There are two drain plugs, one under the transmission and one under the rear axle. Remove both with a hexagon key and drain all the oil. Dispose of it properly.
3. Change the hydraulic and transmission filters (see the 600-hour filter task) before refilling.
4. Refit the plugs and refill with new oil. Start the engine, raise the hitch fully and check for leaks.
5. Recheck the level in the sight glass: it must be between MIN and MAX. Do not fill above the full mark.

Tools: Drain tray (100 L), Hexagon key for the drain plugs, Filter wrench

1. Park on level ground, lower the hitch and any implement, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Differential: remove the drain plug and drain all the oil, refit the plug, then fill through the level and filler plug hole until it reaches the bottom of the hole.
3. Hubs: turn the wheel until the drain plug is at the lowest point, remove it and drain. Turn the wheel so the level and filler plug is at 3 o'clock, fill to the bottom of the hole and refit the plug. Do both hubs.
4. Front PTO gearbox: remove the level plug and drain plugs, drain, refit the drain plugs and fill through the level plug until oil reaches the bottom of the opening.

Tools: Drain tray, Hexagon key, Funnel

1. External filters: turn the quick-release fastener half a turn anticlockwise, take off the cover and take the old element out. Clean the chamber with a damp, lint-free cloth.
2. Fit the new element with the moulded flow arrow pointing upwards and refit the cover.
3. Internal filter: loosen the captive screws, remove the cover and element, clean the chamber, and fit the new element with its arrow pointing the right way.

Tools: Screwdriver

1. Release the step frame, lower the steps, and release the battery cover.
2. Remove the vent plugs and check the electrolyte is above the top of the plates in every cell. Top up with distilled water only, and do not overfill.
3. Clean the terminals and coat them lightly with petroleum jelly. If the battery is badly discharged, see your dealer.

Tools: Spanner, Petroleum jelly

1. Let the engine cool. Never open the pressure cap on a hot system: turn it slowly to the first stop and let the pressure out first.
2. Set the cab heater to full heat. Drain the radiator and the drain at the rear left of the engine block, and open the radiator and recovery tank caps.
3. Flush with a cooling system cleaner if needed and let it cool; never put cold coolant into a hot engine.
4. Refill slowly through the radiator neck with the 50/50 mix to the bottom of the filler neck. Run the engine to operating temperature, then top up the radiator and bring the recovery tank to the cold mark.

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Pliers (for the special hose clamps), Funnel

1. Remove the housing cover and the outer element, then twist the inner element and pull it out straight.
2. Wipe the housing clean, fit the new inner element and check both elements are properly seated before refitting the cover.

Tools: Lint-free cloth

1. With the engine cold, ease off the ventilation tube, remove the rocker cover nuts and cover.
2. The handbook gives a tolerance of 0.05 mm (0.002 in) and shows 0.009 in for the inlet; the base figures printed in our copy are incomplete, so check your handbook for the exact inlet and exhaust settings.
3. Turn the crankshaft and balance No. 1 cylinder valves, adjust the marked valves, then turn it to balance No. 6 cylinder and adjust the rest as the handbook table shows.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners

1. With the engine cold, ease off the ventilation tube and remove the rocker cover.
2. Turn the breather elbow a quarter turn anticlockwise and pull it out, then remove the thumb screw and the three screws holding the regulator and take regulator and filter out.
3. Clean the cover thoroughly, fit the new regulator, filter and elbow and tighten the regulator screws to 5 Nm (3.6 lbf ft).
4. Refit the cover with a new gasket and tighten the nuts to 25 Nm (18.4 lbf ft).

Tools: Screwdriver, Torque wrench

1. Exhaust the main air tank or tanks by opening the drain tap, and clean around the drier first.
2. Remove the old drier. Check the threaded pin and flange seal face for damage, lightly oil the new seal, screw on until the seal touches, then a further half turn by hand. Do not overtighten.
3. Build up air pressure and check for leaks.

Tools: Strap wrench

1. Book this with a dealer. The refrigerant is hazardous and releasing it is illegal in many countries, so do not vent it yourself.

Tools: Dealer service equipment