Case International 1294 / 1394 / 1494 service schedule

1. Stop the engine. Undo the screw on the bowl clamp and swing it clear.
2. Remove the bowl, empty any water and sediment and clean it.
3. Check the seal, refit the bowl and tighten the clamp. Bleed the fuel system if it will not start.

Tools: Screwdriver, Rag, Container

1. Wipe each nipple clean before greasing.
2. Grease: ramshaft (2; 3 on the 1494), front axle pivot (2), king pins (2), front wheel hubs (2), final drive output shafts (2), lift rods (3), levelling lever gearbox (1), top link (1), sensing unit and cable (1).
3. Grease the PTO clutch release bearing (1) with only two strokes of the gun so it does not get on the clutch. The 1494 chart puts this at 400 hours.
4. Oil the park brake cables (cab tractors) and the control lever pivot points.
5. MFD tractors: grease the pivot bushes (2), splined sleeve (2), swivel pins (4) and steering cylinder ends (2), and clean the axle breather.
6. Check the power steering reservoir, transmission dipstick and coolant level, tyre pressures, wheel nut tightness, brakes and clutch adjustment, and battery level.

Tools: Grease gun, Oil can, Rags

1. Run the engine warm, park on level ground, stop it and take the key out. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
2. Take out the sump drain plug and let the oil drain.
3. Unscrew the filter with a strap wrench, wipe the filter seat clean and smear clean oil on the new filter's seal.
4. Screw the new filter on until the seal touches, then a further ½ to ¾ turn by hand only.
5. Refit the drain plug and pour in about 7.4 L of oil. The 1494 handbook says measure the oil in rather than filling to the dipstick.
6. Pull the stop control out and crank for no more than 30 seconds to prime the oil, wait a minute, push the stop in and start. Run at about 1,000 rpm for five minutes.
7. Stop, wait for the oil to drain back, then check the dipstick on level ground and top up. Check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner for the sump plug, Strap wrench (filter removal), Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. The filter is bolted to the right-hand ramshaft bracket. Lower the linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Clean all round the filter so no dirt gets in. Small particles damage the high-pressure hydraulics.
3. Unscrew the bowl with a wrench, throw the element away and clean inside the bowl.
4. Take the O-ring and back-up ring off the filter body and fit new ones.
5. Put the new element in the bowl closed end down, refit the bowl and tighten it to 34 Nm (25 lb ft).
6. Run the engine, work the hydraulics, then check the transmission dipstick and top up with TFD.

Tools: Filter bowl wrench, Torque wrench, Drain tray, Clean rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Clean around the reservoir on the steering pump.
2. Remove the housing from the pump, take out the old element and drain the old oil.
3. Fit the new element and refit the housing.
4. Fill to the correct level, start the engine and turn the steering lock to lock, then recheck the level.

Tools: Spanners, Drain tray, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Put a container under the filters.
2. Undo the fastening bolts, take off each bowl and element and throw the elements away.
3. Clean the bowls, fit new elements and seals, and refit them.
4. Open the vent screws in turn and work the lift pump priming lever until fuel comes out with no air, then close them.
5. Keep clear of the fan and belts while bleeding with the engine turning. Diesel under pressure can go through skin.

Tools: Spanners, Container for fuel, Rags

1. Raise the bonnet fully and remove the end cover from the air cleaner in front of the radiator.
2. Undo the retaining nut and pull out the main element.
3. Clean it by tapping it against something soft, such as a tyre. Do not use a hard surface.
4. Lower a 12 V 40 W lamp inside it and look for light through splits or holes. If it is damaged, fit new main and safety elements.
5. To change the safety element, undo its retaining nut and pull it out. Do not try to clean it.
6. Refit the elements, nuts and end cover. Check the dust release valve is not blocked.

Tools: 12 V 40 W inspection lamp (no stronger), Clean rag

1. Let the engine go fully cold. Stop it and take the key out.
2. Remove the rocker cover.
3. Turn the engine until each pair of valves is closed, then check the gap between rocker and valve with the 0.25 mm feeler.
4. If it is wrong, slacken the locknut, turn the adjusting screw until the feeler just slides, hold the screw and tighten the locknut. Recheck.
5. Refit the rocker cover and check for oil leaks.

Tools: Feeler gauge 0.25 mm, Ring spanner, Screwdriver, Socket set

1. Clean around the injectors and pipes before undoing anything.
2. Remove the injectors and test them on a pop tester, or send them to a dealer or diesel specialist.
3. Refit with new copper washers and bleed the fuel pipes.
4. Diesel under pressure can go through skin. Use card, not your hand, to find leaks.

Tools: Spanners, Injector pop tester (or dealer), Blanking caps

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Remove the right-hand safety guard if fitted.
2. Press the belt midway with about 4.5 kg; it should move about 10 mm.
3. To adjust, slacken the alternator bolts, move the alternator out to tighten or in to slacken, then tighten all bolts.
4. Refit the guard.

Tools: Spanners, Ruler

1. Push the clutch operating lever anticlockwise by hand until the release bearing touches the release plate.
2. Push it fully clockwise and measure the movement at the end of the lever.
3. 1.5 mm (1/16 in) or less means the driven plate is worn out and should be replaced soon.
4. Afterwards press the pedal to the floor four times, check the clutch works, and check the reservoir level.

Tools: Ruler

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the transmission drain plug, and on MFD tractors the transfer box drain plug too. Let it all drain.
3. Power shift: take out the power shift filter, wash it in paraffin or diesel, fit a new O-ring and sealing washer, and refit it tight.
4. Change the hydraulic filter element (see that task) and refit the drain plugs.
5. Fill with Case TFD through the filler on the right-hand ramshaft cover to the dipstick mark.
6. Run the engine, work the linkage and steering, then recheck the level on level ground.

Tools: Large drain trays (50 L), Spanners, Paraffin or diesel for washing, Funnel or pump

1. Park level with the oil warm, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the drain plug from each final drive housing and let it drain. Refit the plugs.
3. Fill each side through its level/filler plug until oil reaches the bottom of the hole, then refit the plug.
4. Every 100 hours, check the level at the same plug and top up.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Funnel

1. Park level, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Differential: take out the drain plug under the housing, drain, refit it, then fill through the fill/level plug until oil is level with the bottom of the hole.
3. Hubs: turn each wheel until its plug is at the bottom, take it out and drain the oil.
4. Turn the wheel until the plug hole is horizontal (level position), fill until oil reaches the bottom of the hole, and refit the plug.
5. Every 100 hours check both levels with the plugs in the same positions.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Funnel or oil pump

1. Let the engine cool fully. Turn the radiator cap to the first notch, wait for the pressure to go, then remove it.
2. Open the radiator drain valve and take out the cylinder block drain plug (next to the fuel filters).
3. Close the drain and refit the plug, add radiator cleaner and follow its instructions, then flush with clean water.
4. Refill with the 50/50 antifreeze mix, run the engine, and top up when cool.
5. Replace the fan if it is bent or damaged.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Spanner for block drain plug, Hose

1. Drain all the fluid from the brake and the clutch systems and check the pipes.
2. Flush, then fill both systems with new Agricastrol FBS and bleed out the air.
3. Fit green covers to both reservoirs, or green tape, to show which fluid is in.
4. Check the pedals work properly before driving.

Tools: Bleed tube and jar, Spanners, Green tape or green covers

1. Raise the front wheels off the ground and support the axle safely.
2. Check for play. If there is too much, take off the hub cap and the split pin.
3. Turn the wheel while tightening the hub nut to 95 Nm (70 lb ft), then slacken it and tighten to 40 Nm (30 lb ft).
4. Slacken further only to line up a split pin hole (the stub axle has two at 90°), and fit a new split pin.
5. Check the wheel turns freely, refit the hub cap and grease it.

Tools: Jack and axle stands, Torque wrench, Socket set, Grease gun

1. Raise the engine cover. The filter is at the front of the cab.
2. Remove the two wing nuts and pull the housing forward and up.
3. On a bench, take out the old element and fit a new one.
4. Refit the housing and wing nuts and lower the cover.

Tools: None beyond hands