CFMoto CFORCE 450 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, wheels chocked. Lift the quad safely onto stands under the frame: the wheels have to come off to see the pads.
2. Look at each pad. CFMoto's limits are 1.5 mm of pad and 4.0 mm of disc thickness. If either is below that, have your dealer fit new pads or discs.
3. Check the hand brake lever has some free play at the end, and that the top of the foot pedal sits 70–80 mm above the footrest. If not, have your dealer adjust it.
4. Refit the wheels with the tapered side of each nut towards the wheel and the tyre arrow pointing forwards.
5. Brakes that feel spongy, drag or pull mean air or a fault: do not ride it, get it checked.

Tools: Axle stands or a lift, Wheel brace, Torque wrench (70–80 N·m), Torch, Ruler or vernier

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Wipe each grease nipple clean so you do not push dirt into the joint.
3. Rear: there are 2 grease nipples on the rear anti-roll (stabiliser) bar and 4 on the rear suspension pivots, matching left and right.
4. Front: CFMoto says the front suspension has no grease nipples and needs no greasing.
5. Use all-season grease. Pump until fresh grease just comes out of the bush, then wipe off the excess.
6. Lubricate the brake and parking cables and cable ends with SAE 10W-30 oil. Replace any cable that does not move freely.
7. CFMoto also says lubricate after pressure washing, after the drive system has been under water and before storage.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag, Oil can

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Check the clear drain hose at the bottom of the air filter housing. If there is dust or water in it, empty it and clean the housing.
3. Remove the seat, unclip the housing cover clips and take off the filter housing.
4. Loosen the clamp, take the filter out and pull the foam pre-filter off it.
5. Wash the foam pre-filter gently in soap and water and let it dry completely.
6. Refit the pre-filter, put a thin film of lubricant inside the filter's rubber seal, fit the filter and tighten the clamp. Refit the cover and clips and check it seals all round.
7. Do not wash the paper element with any liquid and do not blow it out with compressed air. Brush off loose dust; if it is still dirty, fit a new one.
8. Each time, check the intake, the rubber joint to the throttle body and the clamps are tight, so no dirty air gets in.
9. Never run the engine without the filter fitted.
10. If water got into the air box, drain and dry it and do not start the engine until the dealer has checked for water in the engine.

Tools: Screwdriver, Soft brush, Bowl of warm soapy water for the foam pre-filter, Light oil or grease for the seal, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Find the CVT air intake filter screen (the cooling air intake for the belt case).
3. Clean the screen or filter. Fit a new one if it is torn or will not come clean.
4. A blocked intake makes the belt run hot and wear out fast, so check it more often in dust or mud.

Tools: Screwdriver, Soft brush, Rag

1. Park on firm level ground, put the gear lever in P (park), stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Run the engine for 2–3 minutes first so the oil is warm and drains well, then stop it. Oil and exhaust get hot: wear gloves.
3. Put a drain tray under the engine, take out the dipstick and remove the magnetic drain bolt and washer. Let the oil drain fully.
4. Remove the three oil filter cover bolts and the cover, and take out the old filter.
5. Check the cover O-ring. Fit a new one if it is damaged, and smear it with clean oil.
6. Fit the new filter, refit the cover and tighten the bolts to 10 N·m.
7. Clean the metal off the magnetic drain bolt, fit a new washer if the old one is damaged, and tighten the bolt to 25 N·m.
8. Fill through the dipstick hole (the funnel and extension tube come in the tool kit) with 2.8 L of the recommended oil.
9. Check the level: wipe the dipstick, rest it in the hole without screwing it in, pull it out and read it. The oil must be between the upper and lower marks. Too much or too little harms the engine.
10. With the quad still in park, idle for 30 seconds, stop the engine and check for leaks.
11. Take the old oil and filter to a proper disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Socket set and T-bar, Torque wrench (10–25 N·m), Funnel and extension tube (in the tool kit), Shop towels, Gloves

1. CFMoto lists the drive belt and pulleys as a dealer job. This check is what you can see yourself.
2. Before every ride look at the clear CVT drain (sediment) tube under the CVT cover. Water or dirt in it means the CVT case needs draining and cleaning.
3. If the quad has been in water above the footrests, remove the CVT cover drain bolt to let water out, then have the dealer inspect it. A wet belt slips.
4. Signs of a worn or glazed belt: slipping, a burning smell, poor pulling, or squealing. Have the dealer measure the belt and clean and check the pulleys.
5. After fitting a new belt, break it in gently: CFMoto dealer Takatalo suggests about 5 km at a steady speed, then let it cool fully.

Tools: Torch, Rag, Service manual (for removing the CVT cover)

1. Park on level ground, put it in park and take the key out.
2. Rear: put a tray under the rear gear case, remove the filler bolt and then the drain bolt underneath. Let it drain.
3. Refit the rear drain bolt at 25 N·m and pour in exactly 200 ml of SAE 80W-90 GL-5. The case is designed so the level cannot be checked at the filler: drain and refill with the measured amount.
4. Refit the rear filler bolt at 25 N·m.
5. Front: do the same at the front gear case with 230 ml of SAE 80W-90 GL-5, drain and filler bolts at 25 N·m.
6. Keep dirt out of the filler holes. Look at the old oil: milky oil means water has got in, so have the seals checked.
7. Check both cases for leaks afterwards, and before every ride.

Tools: Small drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (25 N·m), Measuring jug and oil syringe or squeeze bottle

1. Let the engine cool and take the key out.
2. Open the fuel tank cover, remove the gear lever, the fuel tank protector, the side cover bolts and the left side cover.
3. Clean dirt from around the plug before removing it, pull off the cap by the cap (not the lead) and unscrew the plug with the tool-kit plug spanner.
4. A light tan colour on the insulator is normal. Replace the plug if the electrodes are worn or it is heavily sooted or oily.
5. Specified plug: NGK DCPR8E. Check the gap with a feeler gauge: 0.8–0.9 mm.
6. Screw the plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten to 20 N·m. Without a torque wrench, about 1/4–1/2 turn past finger tight, and have it torqued as soon as you can.
7. Refit the cap and panels.

Tools: Plug spanner (in the tool kit), Feeler gauge, Torque wrench (20 N·m)

1. Only check with the engine fully cold. Take the key out.
2. CFMoto says this should be done by a trained technician. The covers, tank shroud and top-dead-centre setting need the service manual.
3. Specified clearances (cold): inlet 0.08–0.12 mm, exhaust 0.12–0.18 mm.
4. If you do not have the service manual and feeler gauges, have your dealer do it at the same visit as the oil change.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Socket set, Service manual

1. Only work on a cold engine. Never take the radiator cap off when hot: hot coolant can spray out and scald you.
2. Park on level ground and remove the front access cover. Remove the radiator cap and then the reservoir cap.
3. Put a tray under the engine, remove the small left engine cover and the left engine cover, then remove the coolant drain bolt.
4. Disconnect the hose from the reservoir and drain that too. Flush the system with clean water and let it all drain out.
5. Refit the drain bolt (new washer if damaged) loosely, refit the reservoir hose and fill the radiator with a 50/50 mix of ethylene-glycol antifreeze for aluminium engines and distilled water.
6. While filling, loosen the drain bolt until coolant comes out with no air bubbles, then tighten it to 10 N·m.
7. Total capacity is 2.2 L (about 2.1 L at a change), plus the reservoir (0.1–0.2 L).
8. Fit the radiator cap, idle the engine for a few minutes, stop it and let it cool. Top up the radiator to the top and repeat until it stays full. Fill the reservoir to the upper mark.
9. Refit the engine covers (10 N·m) and the access cover. Check for leaks.
10. CFMoto aims for frost protection to −35 °C. Do not mix different coolant types. Coolant is poisonous to animals: catch it all and dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Antifreeze tester, Socket set, Torque wrench (10 N·m), Soft brush and low-pressure hose for the radiator

1. Check the fluid before every ride: front reservoir on the handlebar, foot brake reservoir under the front access cover. Turn the bars straight so the front reservoir is level.
2. Top up only with DOT 4 from a fresh, sealed bottle. Do not mix fluid types and keep water out: it lowers the boiling point and the brakes can fade.
3. Brake fluid strips paint and damages plastic: wipe up any spill at once.
4. CFMoto says a full fluid change (and bleeding) is a job for a trained technician. Have the dealer do it every 2 years, and replace the brake hoses every 4 years.
5. If the level keeps dropping, have the cause found before riding.

Tools: Torch, Rag