David Brown 1390 / 1490 service schedule

1. Oil (SAE 140): axle pivot (2), king pins (2), park brake cables (2) and control lever pivots.
2. Grease: front wheel hubs (2), MFD axle pivot, king pins and drive shafts (6), final drive output shafts (2), clutch cross shaft (2), sensing unit cable, lift rods (3), levelling lever gearbox, top link.
3. Power steering: wheels straight ahead, check the reservoir level.
4. Brakes: raise one wheel, remove the plug, turn the self-locking nut clockwise until the wheel is hard to turn, then back 2½ turns. Refit the plug and repeat on the other side.
5. Transmission clutch free movement 5/32 in (4.0 mm). PTO clutch: high platform 1/8–1/4 in (3–5 mm); low profile 2½ in (63 mm) at the lever, and never run with less than 1¾ in (45 mm).
6. Check the brake and clutch reservoirs with the SAME fluid that is in them, drain the fuel water trap, and check coolant, battery, tyres, wheel nuts and transmission oil level.

Tools: Grease gun, Oil gun, Rule, Jack, Tyre gauge

1. Run the engine warm, park level, stop the engine and chock the wheels. Drain the oil while hot.
2. Filter (every 200 h by the book): remove the old filter with a wrench and clean the seating on the block.
3. Put a little engine oil on the new filter's sealing ring, screw it on until the ring touches, then a further half to three-quarters of a turn.
4. Refit the drain plug and fill to the safe mark on the dipstick.
5. With the stop control in STOP, turn the engine on the starter for ten seconds to fill the filter.
6. Check the level, start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Oil filter wrench, Spanner for the sump plug, Funnel

1. Park level and stop the engine.
2. Remove each final drive filler/level plug and top up to the plug hole.
3. MFD: check the differential level plug and each hub level plug (hub plug at the level position) and top up with SAE 90.
4. Grease the three-point hitch ends (2).
5. Cab tractors: open the two latches, swing the filter door down, take out the element and clean the louvres. Refit with the airflow arrows pointing up.

Tools: Spanners, Oil pump, Grease gun

1. Clean the filter bowl and the area round it (right-hand ramshaft bracket).
2. Unscrew the bowl with a spanner on the hexagon, discard the element and clean the bowl.
3. Remove the back-up ring and O-ring, fit new ones.
4. Fit a new element, closed end down, into the bowl and refit it to the body. Tighten to 25 lb ft (34 N·m).
5. Run the engine and check for leaks and the transmission oil level.

Tools: Spanner for the bowl hexagon, Torque wrench (34 N·m), Drain tray, Clean rags

1. Clean round the filter heads. Undo the fastening bolts and remove both filters.
2. Fit new elements with new seals and refit.
3. Bleed the fuel system as the handbook shows: vent plug on the filter head, then the injection pump, using the fuel transport pump.
4. Start and check for leaks.

Tools: Spanners, Container, Rags

1. With test equipment, remove and test the injectors; otherwise send them to a dealer if the engine has lost power, uses too much fuel or smokes.
2. Refit injectors with new copper washers.
3. Engine cold: remove the rocker cover and check every valve (8) at 0.010 in (0.25 mm). Adjust with the screw and lock with the locknut.
4. Check the fan belt: 3/8 in (10 mm) deflection with one finger's pressure. Adjust by moving the alternator.
5. Check external nuts and bolts against the torque table in your handbook.

Tools: Feeler gauge 0.010 in, Spanners and screwdriver, Injector tester (or dealer)

1. Clean the pump and reservoir cover thoroughly.
2. Undo the centre bolt and remove the cover. Remove the filter element.
3. Fit a new element with its location part engaged, refit the cover and bolt.
4. Fill with TFD fluid to the correct level, run the engine, turn lock to lock and top up with the wheels straight.

Tools: Spanners, Drain tray, Clean rags

1. Stop the engine. Remove the wing nut, cover plate and main element. Leave the safety element in place.
2. Clean the main element by tapping it against a soft surface such as a tyre.
3. Check it for damage with a 12 V bulb inside. Fit a new one if there is any damage.
4. Check the seals, refit the element, cover and wing nut.
5. If the warning lamp comes on again sooner than normal, fit new main and safety elements.

Tools: 12 V inspection lamp (no more than 12 V), Rags

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine and chock the wheels.
2. Remove drain plugs A and B and drain the oil. Plug B carries the power-shift filter mesh.
3. Clean the mesh in clean fuel oil or paraffin and refit the plugs with a sound O-ring.
4. Renew the transmission filter element as in the 400-hour task.
5. Fill with new TFD fluid to the correct level, run the engine, work the hydraulics and recheck.

Tools: Large drain tray (50 L), Spanners, Fuel oil or paraffin, Pump

1. Park level and stop the engine.
2. Remove the drain plug and the filler/level plug on each unit and drain.
3. Refit the drain plug and fill to the level plug hole with new oil.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Pump

1. Park level. Remove the differential drain plug and level plug and drain.
2. Turn each hub so its plug is at the bottom, drain, then turn it to the level position.
3. Refit drain plugs and fill the differential and each hub to the level plug with SAE 90.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Pump

1. Find out which fluid the tractor has: green covers or tape mean FBS, otherwise Dexron ATF.
2. Drain all fluid from both systems and flush them.
3. Fill both systems with new Agricastrol FBS and bleed.
4. Fit green covers or green tape to both reservoirs and check the pipes.

Tools: Bleed tube and jar, Spanners, Green tape

1. Engine cold: open the radiator drain valve and the cylinder block drain plug.
2. Use a radiator cleaner as directed, then flush with clean water.
3. Close the plug and valve and fill the radiator with the anti-freeze mix, then the expansion tank to its mark.

Tools: Drain tray, Hose

1. Raise the front wheels and check for free movement.
2. If there is too much, remove the hub cap and split pin and tighten the special nut until all free movement has gone.
3. Fit a new split pin (the stub axle has two holes at 90°) and check the wheel turns freely.
4. Refit the cap and grease through the hub fitting.

Tools: Jack and stands, Spanners, Pliers, Grease gun