Deutz-Fahr Agroplus 75 service schedule

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Press the fan belt midway along its longest run: it should move about 5 mm. The A/C belt should move 8–10 mm at most.
3. Look along each belt for cracks, fraying or glazing and replace damaged belts straight away.
4. To adjust, slacken the mounting bolts and move the fuel lift pump (fan belt) or the compressor (A/C belt), then retighten.

Tools: Spanners, Rule

1. Wipe each nipple before greasing.
2. Rear half-shaft bearings (one nipple each side), the lift rod screws (2) and the lower link shaft (1).
3. Power steering ram pivot pins (4 on 4WD).
4. 4WD: the front axle cradle pivots (front and rear) and the hub swivel bearings (4).
5. 2WD: the stub axle pins (2), axle pivot (1), hub bearings (2) and steering rams (4).
6. Front linkage: the lift arm shaft (2). Clean the A/C condenser on the cab roof at the same time.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Check the transmission level on the dipstick at the back of the gearbox, engine idling, linkages down.
2. Check the front PTO and front axle levels at their plugs.
3. Check tyre pressures and wheel nut torque.
4. Check the battery electrolyte is about 10 mm over the plates; top up with distilled water only.
5. Check brake pedal free travel and that both pedals match; brake work is for a Deutz-Fahr workshop.

Tools: Tyre gauge, Torch, Distilled water

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Find the filter on the control block on the right side of the gearbox housing.
3. Clean around it, put a tray underneath and remove the filter.
4. Fit the new element with a clean, lightly oiled seal.
5. Run the engine and check the gearbox oil level and for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanner, Rags

1. Warm the engine, park on level ground, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Hot oil burns: wear gloves.
3. Undo the drain plug at the back of the sump and let the oil drain fully.
4. Put the tray under the filter on the right of the engine, unscrew the filter cover, take out the old cartridge and fit the new one. Tighten the cover by hand.
5. Refit the drain plug with a new washer and tighten it fully.
6. Fill through the filler on the left of the engine to the top mark on the dipstick.
7. Run the engine for a few minutes, check the plug and filter for leaks, stop it and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Spanner for the drain plug and filter cover, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Undo the two knobs and take off the filter guard by the fuel tank, release the three clips and remove the cover.
3. Pull out the main element with a slight twist. Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean cloth.
4. To clean it, blow dry air from the inside out at no more than 5 bar. Never wash or brush it.
5. Fit a new element if it is due or damaged. Change the safety element if it is due.
6. Refit the cover with the dust valve pointing down and refit the guard.

Tools: Compressed air with a 90° bent nozzle (max 5 bar), Clean cloth, Dust mask

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. No flames or smoking.
2. Drain any water from the pre-filter under the cab floor on the right, next to the battery, and clean its metal strainer if needed.
3. Put a container under the main filter on the right of the engine, undo it and wipe the contact face clean.
4. Oil the new filter's seal and screw it on by hand.
5. Bleed the air: slacken the screw on top of the filter and work the lift pump by hand until fuel comes out with no bubbles, then tighten it.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Container for fuel, Filter wrench, Spanner for the bleed screw, Rags

1. Lower the front linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Take off the plastic cover on the left of the front support to reach the level plug and the panel under the support to reach the drain plug.
3. Drain the oil, change the filter, refit the plug and fill to the level plug.
4. Clean the PTO oil cooler while you are there.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners

1. Only open the system with the engine stopped and the coolant below 50 °C. Turn the cap anticlockwise slowly.
2. Open the heater tap on the cab roof so that part of the circuit drains too.
3. Drain the radiator and block, flush the system and refit the plugs.
4. Fill with the 50/50 mix using clean water (pH 6.5–8.5, low chloride and sulphate).
5. Run the engine to temperature, let it cool, top up the expansion tank and close the cab roof tap.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Antifreeze tester, Funnel

1. Park on level ground, lower the rear (and front) linkage fully, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the drain plug under the gearbox and drain the oil into a large container.
3. Change the filters in the centre of the gearbox and the control block filter.
4. Refit the plug and fill through the filler above the lift housing until the level shows on the dipstick at the back of the housing.
5. Check the level with the engine at idle and both linkages fully down, then top up and recheck for leaks after a short run.

Tools: Large drain tray (80 L), Spanners, Filter wrench, Pump or funnel, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Drain the centre housing through the drain plug underneath and the hubs through their drain plugs.
3. Refit the plugs and fill the centre to its level plug.
4. Fill each hub until oil reaches the lower edge of the filler hole.
5. On 2WD tractors, have the front hub bearings washed and regreased by a dealer every 1,200 hours instead.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Only work on a cold engine. Take the key out.
2. Remove the rocker cover.
3. With each cylinder's valves closed, check the gap: inlet 0.3 mm, exhaust 0.5 mm.
4. Adjust and lock each adjuster, recheck, then refit the cover with a new gasket.
5. If you are not sure of the turning order, leave it to a Deutz-Fahr workshop as the handbook advises.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners, Engine turning tool

1. Book the injectors in with a diesel specialist or Deutz-Fahr dealer.
2. Clean around each injector before removal so no dirt gets into the engine.
3. Fit new sealing washers when they go back in.

Tools: Injector test bench (workshop)