Fendt 312 Vario service schedule

1. Start a stationary DPF regeneration from the terminal (the dealer says it is started through the TCD) and let it finish before changing the oil.
2. Park on level ground, lower implements and any loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
3. Let the engine stand for at least 10 minutes after the regeneration. The exhaust, DPF and oil are very hot; wear gloves.
4. Remove the sump plug and drain the oil fully into the tray.
5. Remove the oil filter, check the old seal has come off and wipe the filter head clean.
6. Oil the new filter seal and fit it hand-tight, or as marked on the filter.
7. Refit the drain plug with a new seal and fill with oil to the full mark on the dipstick.
8. Start the engine, check the oil pressure warning goes out and look for leaks. Stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Filter wrench, Socket for sump plug, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. No smoking or naked flames.
2. Clean around the filter head so no dirt can get in.
3. Drain the filter and pre-filter into a container, then remove the old element.
4. Fit the new filter with its new seals. Do not pre-fill it with unfiltered fuel.
5. Prime the fuel system as your handbook describes before starting.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks. Never open high-pressure fuel pipes with the engine running.

Tools: Container for fuel, Filter wrench, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Open the filter covers and remove the elements. Wear a dust mask.
3. Fit the new fresh-air filter, and the recirculation filters if due.
4. Refit the covers and check they seal. Clean the air-con condenser while you are there.

Tools: Screwdriver, Dust mask

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never run the engine with the filter out.
2. Open the air cleaner housing and take out the outer element. Leave the inner element in place.
3. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp cloth. Do not blow dirt down the intake.
4. Fit the new element and close the housing, checking the seal sits evenly.
5. Empty the dust valve and check the intake hoses and clips for cracks or leaks.

Tools: Torch, Damp cloth, Dust mask

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Wait for the AdBlue pump to finish purging after switch-off (check your handbook for the time).
2. Clean around the filter housing. AdBlue irritates skin and eyes and creeps out of joints; wear gloves and eye protection.
3. Remove the old filter into a container and fit the new one as your handbook shows.
4. Change the tank breather filter and blow out its hose with low-pressure air.
5. Wash off any spilt AdBlue with water; it crystallises and corrodes.

Tools: Container for AdBlue, Rags, Gloves, Eye protection

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and loader, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. With the engine off, move the spool levers both ways to relieve pressure. Let hot oil cool first.
3. Clean around the filter, remove it and catch the oil.
4. Fit the new filter with a new O-ring.
5. Start the engine briefly, stop it and top up the transmission oil to the correct level. Check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray, Filter wrench, Rags, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage, front linkage and any loader fully, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. With the engine off, move every spool lever both ways and work the linkage controls to relieve hydraulic pressure. Release pressure from couplers too.
3. Let hot oil cool for a while before opening anything. Wear gloves.
4. Drain the hydraulic tank and empty the coupler oil recovery bottles.
5. Change the return filter, fine filter and tank breather, and clean the external pressure supply sieve.
6. Refit the plugs with new seals and fill with the specified oil through the hydraulic filler (not the transmission one).
7. Start the engine, work the linkage and spools through their full travel, lower everything, stop the engine and recheck the level. Check for leaks.

Tools: Large drain tray (50 L), Spanners and sockets, Filter wrench, Oil pump or funnel, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Turn the front wheels so each hub plug is at the drain position your handbook shows.
3. Drain the differential and both hubs.
4. Refit the plugs with new seals and fill each to its level plug with 80W-90.
5. Wipe the axle clean so any leak shows later, and check the toe-in.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let all air out of the system with the tank drain valve before touching the dryer.
3. Unscrew the old cartridge, oil the new seal lightly and fit it hand-tight.
4. Start the engine, build pressure and check for leaks.

Tools: Strap wrench, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the outer element, then ease the inner element out without letting dirt fall into the intake.
3. Fit the new inner element straight away, then the outer element.
4. Close the housing and check the seals.

Tools: Torch, Damp cloth, Dust mask

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Wear gloves and eye protection. Clean round the filler neck and sensor unit before opening them.
3. Take out the filler filter and fit the new one.
4. Change the sensor filter with its new clip and O-ring as your handbook shows.
5. Refit the cap, wash off any spilt AdBlue and check for leaks.

Tools: Container for AdBlue, Rags, Gloves, Eye protection

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any loader fully to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. With the engine off, move each spool lever both ways and lower the linkage to relieve hydraulic pressure.
3. Let oil straight from work cool for a while: warm oil drains better, but very hot oil scalds. Wear gloves.
4. Remove the drain plug(s) and drain the oil fully.
5. Change the suction filter and the pressure filter, each with its new O-ring.
6. Refit the drain plug with a new seal and fill with the specified oil through the transmission filler (not the hydraulic one).
7. Start the engine, run it for a few minutes, stop it and check the level on the transmission dipstick or sight glass. Check for leaks.

Tools: Large drain tray (40 L), Spanners and sockets, Filter wrench, Oil pump or funnel, Gloves

1. Lower the front linkage and any implement, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the gearbox cool if it has just been working. Drain the front PTO.
3. Refit the plugs with new seals and fill to the level mark with the specified oil.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Funnel

1. Only work on a cold engine. Let it cool for at least an hour, then open the expansion tank cap slowly to let pressure out.
2. Drain the radiator and engine block into a tray. Dispose of old coolant properly.
3. Refit the drain plug with a new seal and fill with the specified coolant.
4. Run the engine to working temperature with the cab heater on, let it cool fully and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Hose, Coolant tester