Fendt 400 Vario service schedule

1. Run the engine to warm the oil, then park on level ground, lower the linkage and any loader, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Hot oil burns: wear gloves and let it stand for a few minutes.
3. Remove the drain plug and let the sump empty fully.
4. Remove the oil filter, check the old seal came off with it and wipe the filter head clean.
5. Oil the new filter's seal and fit it by hand.
6. Refit the drain plug with a new sealing washer.
7. Fill with about 10 L of 15W-40 to the top mark, run the engine for a minute, check for leaks, stop it and recheck the level after a few minutes.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Filter wrench, Socket for the drain plug, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Grease every grease point, including the front axle drive shaft.
2. Check the front toe-in is 0 to 1 mm.
3. Drain water from the air brake tanks and check the airline antifreeze bottle.
4. Check the battery, lights, indicators and warning lamps.
5. Tighten the wheel nuts and wheel weight bolts (rear weights on M16 bolts: 195 lb ft).
6. Check tyre pressures, look for leaks and loose fixings, and test the brakes on a short drive.
7. Have the dealer read and clear the fault memory if any warnings were logged.

Tools: Grease gun, Tape measure, Torque wrench, Tyre gauge

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and keep naked flames away.
2. Clean around the filter head before opening anything.
3. Drain any water from the pre-filter bowl into a container.
4. Remove the old filter, wipe the head and fit the new filter with a lightly oiled seal, hand-tight.
5. Change the pre-filter too if it is dirty or the engine has been short of fuel.
6. Bleed the fuel system as your handbook describes, start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Container for fuel, Filter wrench, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never run the engine with the filter out.
2. Open the air cleaner housing and take out the primary element, then the safety element.
3. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp cloth. Do not blow dirt down the intake.
4. Fit the new safety element, then the new primary element, and check they seat evenly.
5. Refit the cover and check the dust valve points down.
6. At the 1,500 and 2,500-hour services, blow the primary element out from the inside with low-pressure dry air and replace it if it is damaged.

Tools: Damp cloth, Torch, Dust mask

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and let it cool.
2. Clean around the breather housing.
3. Remove the old filters and fit the new ones with their seals.
4. Run the engine and check for oil leaks around the housing.

Tools: Spanners, Rags

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let hot oil cool for a while, then drain the transmission into a tray.
3. Change the pressure and suction filters, fitting the new O-rings lightly oiled.
4. Refit the drain plug (renew it if the thread or seal is damaged).
5. Fill with about 25 L of the correct oil, run the engine, work the transmission through its range and recheck the level.

Tools: Large drain tray (30 L), Spanners, Filter wrench, Funnel or pump, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Drain each final drive into a tray.
3. Refit the plugs with new sealing washers.
4. Fill each side with about 7 L of 80W-90 to its level plug, then refit the level plugs.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Drain the differential, then turn each hub so its plug is at the bottom and drain it.
3. Refit the plugs with new seals.
4. Fill the differential to its level plug, then turn each hub so the plug is level with the centre and fill to the plug.
5. Check the toe-in is 0 to 1 mm and grease the front axle drive shaft while you are under it.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Lower the front linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Drain the front PTO housing.
3. Change the filter and O-ring.
4. Refit the drain plug and fill to the level mark with about 4 L, then recheck after running.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Funnel

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage, loader and implements fully, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Work the spool levers to let the pressure out.
3. Drain the hydraulic tank, refit the plug with a new washer.
4. Change the return filter (check its length against the old one) and its O-ring, and fit a new tank breather.
5. Fill with about 45 L, run the engine, work every service through its full stroke, lower everything and recheck the level.

Tools: Large drain tray (50 L), Spanners, Filter wrench, Pump, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Open the filter covers and remove the elements, wearing a dust mask.
3. Wipe the housings out and fit the new filters with their seals the right way round.
4. Close the covers and check they seal.

Tools: Screwdriver, Dust mask

1. Only check with the engine cold. Take the key out.
2. Clean the rocker cover and its surroundings, then remove it.
3. Turn the engine until the valves of the cylinder you are checking are closed (rocking position on its partner cylinder).
4. Check the gap with a feeler gauge: inlet 0.4 mm, exhaust 0.5 mm. Adjust and lock the adjuster if needed, then recheck.
5. Work through every cylinder, refit the cover with a new gasket and check for leaks.

Tools: Feeler gauges (0.4 and 0.5 mm), Spanners, Engine turning tool, Torque wrench

1. Only work on a cold engine. Open the cap slowly to let pressure out.
2. Drain the radiator and engine block into a tray. Coolant is poisonous to animals: keep it contained.
3. Refit the drain plugs and fill with premixed coolant, with the heater set to hot.
4. Run the engine to working temperature, let it cool and top up to the mark.
5. Check the belts and hoses while you are there; the dealer checks the belts at every service.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Hose, Antifreeze tester, Funnel