Ford 3000 service schedule

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Keep naked flames away.
2. Open the drain plug on the rear filter (where fitted) and let any water run out until clean fuel shows. Close it.
3. Repeat on the front filter.
4. If a lot of fuel was let out, bleed the system (see the fuel filter task).

Tools: Small container, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Take off the radiator chaff screen and slacken the air cleaner bowl thumbscrew.
3. Remove the cups, tip out the old oil and dirt, and clean both cups.
4. Clean the dirt off the mesh screen in the base of the air cleaner body.
5. Refill both cups to the level mark with engine oil. Do not overfill; too much oil can be drawn into the engine.
6. Refit the cups and the chaff screen and tighten the thumbscrew.

Tools: Drain tray, Paraffin or parts cleaner, Rags

1. Stop the engine, take the key out, lower implements and chock the wheels.
2. Clutch, transmission PTO: free travel is 29–35 mm. Slacken the operating rod clevis locknut, remove the clevis pin, turn the clevis to lengthen or shorten the rod, refit with a new split pin and lock the nut.
3. Clutch, live PTO: free travel is 35–41 mm. Slacken the locknut on the adjusting screw in the clutch operating lever, turn the screw to set the travel and lock it.
4. Brakes: with the drums cold and the diff lock out, chock one rear wheel and jack up the other onto a stand.
5. Through the slot in the back plate, turn the adjuster until the shoes lock the wheel, then back it off until the wheel just turns freely without binding.
6. Do the other side the same way, then road test with the pedals locked together to check the brakes pull evenly.

Tools: Spanners, Rule, Jack, axle stand and chocks, Screwdriver

1. Lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Wipe each nipple clean, then grease until the old grease is pushed out, and wipe off the surplus.
3. Ford 3000 points: front wheel spindles; handbrake cross shaft and lever extension tube (3 nipples, rear-wheel handbrake); brake pedal pivots; clutch pedal pivots; lift linkage rods and levelling box; power steering cylinder supports; diff lock pedal support; automatic pick-up hitch spindles.
4. Clutch release bearing greaser (where fitted): turn the cap down half a turn every 50 hours, or a full turn on continuous loader work.

Tools: High-pressure grease gun, Rags

1. Run the engine up to normal working temperature, then park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the sump drain plug and let the hot oil drain fully. Wear gloves; it burns. Refit the plug.
3. Clean around the filter so dirt cannot fall in. Remove the old element (or spin-on filter) and throw it away with its old sealing ring.
4. Fit the new element with a new sealing ring.
5. Refill to the upper mark on the dipstick with the specified quantity.
6. Start the engine, check for leaks at the filter and plug, stop it, wait 15 minutes and recheck the dipstick.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner for sump plug, Spanners for the filter, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Check which pump you have: this applies only to the Simms in-line pump, not the CAV rotary pump.
3. Drain the pump oil, then refill with fresh engine oil up to the level plug hole.
4. Take off the pump breather cover and gauze, wash them in solvent, dry and refit.

Tools: Small drain tray, Spanners, Solvent for the breather gauze

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Press the belt midway between the generator pulley and the crankshaft pulley. It should deflect 13 mm (0.5 in).
3. To adjust, slacken the generator mounting and strap bolts, move the generator to set the tension and retighten.
4. Recheck the deflection.

Tools: Spanners, Rule

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Keep naked flames away.
2. Close the fuel tank shut-off valve.
3. Remove the filter bowl, and throw away the element and sealing rings.
4. Wash the bowl and filter body with a brush and clean fuel. Keep everything absolutely clean.
5. Fit a new element and new sealing rings, and refit the bowl.
6. Open the shut-off valve and bleed: slacken the bleed screws on the filter and work the lift pump until fuel comes out with no air, then tighten (on Simms-pump tractors use the lift pump priming lever).
7. Slacken the injection pump bleed screw and pump until air-free fuel flows, then tighten.
8. Slacken the injector pipe nuts at the injectors, crank the engine until bubble-free fuel flows from each, then tighten them.

Tools: Spanners, Clean brush, Clean fuel for washing, Container, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the complete air cleaner from the tractor.
3. Tip out the oil from the inner and outer cups.
4. Wash the cups and the mesh screen inside the body in a suitable solvent and let them dry fully.
5. Refill both cups with oil to the level mark, reassemble and refit, making sure all hose clips are tight so no unfiltered air gets in.

Tools: Spanners, Parts-washing tray and solvent, Rags

1. On level ground, lock the rear brakes, chock the rear wheels and jack up one front wheel. Put an axle stand under the axle.
2. Remove the hub cap, split pin, slotted nut, thrust washer, outer bearing, then the wheel and hub, the rear grease retainer and the inner bearing.
3. Clean everything in solvent and let it air dry. Do not spin bearings with compressed air.
4. Check the rollers and cups for discolouring or wear and replace if worn.
5. Pack the bearings and the space between the cups with clean No. 2 lithium grease, and smear the spindle.
6. Reassemble with a new grease retainer. Tighten the slotted nut while turning the wheel until there is a slight drag, then back it off to the nearest slot.
7. Fit a new split pin and the hub cap. Repeat on the other side.

Tools: Jack and axle stand, Wheel chocks, Socket set, Pliers, Solvent and tray

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Check clearances with the engine cold.
2. Swing the battery tray out to reach the rocker cover, and remove the cover.
3. Turn the engine through the flywheel access hole until No. 1 piston is at top dead centre on its firing stroke (both No. 1 valves closed).
4. Check the valves the handbook lists for this position with a feeler between rocker and valve tip: inlet 0.014–0.016 in (0.36–0.41 mm), exhaust 0.017–0.019 in (0.43–0.48 mm).
5. Turn the engine one full turn and check the remaining valves.
6. To adjust, slacken the locknut, turn the screw until the feeler is a light drag, and lock it. Refit the cover.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Ring spanner and screwdriver, Bar to turn the flywheel

1. Work the tractor first so the oil is hot, then park level, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the drain plug and let all the oil drain out.
3. Remove the level and filler plugs, and refit the drain plug.
4. Fill with oil of the specified grade until it reaches the level plug hole.
5. Refit the level and filler plugs.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Spanners, Funnel or pump

1. Park level, lower the lift arms fully and fully retract any external rams, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Work the lift and spool levers with the engine off to relieve any trapped hydraulic pressure before undoing plugs.
3. Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain.
4. Remove the level and filler plugs, then refit the drain plug.
5. Fill with new oil to the level plug hole.
6. Start the engine, raise the lift arms fully and extend any external rams, then top up to the level plug hole again.
7. Lower the arms before leaving the tractor.

Tools: Large drain tray (30 L), Spanners, Funnel or pump

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean the outside of the pump thoroughly first; keep everything very clean.
3. Detach the pump assembly, drain the reservoir, then remove the reservoir and the element.
4. Clean the reservoir, fit the new element, and refit the pump using its two locating lugs.
5. Fill the reservoir with fresh oil, start the engine and turn the steering lock to lock to drive out air.
6. Top up to the bottom of the filler neck with the engine stopped and the wheels straight.

Tools: Spanners, Drain tray, Lint-free rags

1. Only work on a cold engine. If it is warm, take the radiator cap off slowly to let pressure out.
2. Drain the radiator and block into a tray. Dispose of old coolant properly.
3. Flush through with clean water.
4. Refill with 50% antifreeze and 50% water.
5. Run the engine to warm up, let it cool and top up.

Tools: Drain tray, Hose, Antifreeze tester