Honda TRX350 FourTrax Rancher service schedule

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on.
2. Check the front brake fluid level in the reservoir. As the front shoes wear the level drops; a sudden drop means a leak. Brake fluid damages paint and plastics, so wipe spills at once.
3. Front lever: free play at the lever tip should be 25–30 mm. If it is more and the shoes are not worn out, adjust the lining clearance: pump the lever, raise the wheels on a support block, remove the inspection hole plug, turn the shoe adjuster until the wheel locks, then back it off three clicks so the wheel spins without dragging. Repeat for the second adjuster and the other front wheel, then refit the plugs.
4. If the lever is still spongy or has too much travel after adjusting, there is air in the system. Have your dealer bleed it.
5. Rear drum: apply the brake fully and watch the arrow on the brake arm. If it lines up with the reference mark on the brake panel, the shoes need replacing.
6. After wet work, remove the front inspection hole plugs and the rear drain bolt under the rear brake panel. If water drains out, the brake seals must be replaced by your dealer as soon as possible.
7. Every 2 years have the brake fluid replaced.

Tools: Torch, Rag, Flat screwdriver, Axle stand or support block, Small spanner

1. Park on firm level ground, select neutral, set the parking brake, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Run the engine briefly so the oil is warm, then stop it. Hot oil and the exhaust burn, so wear gloves.
3. Remove the oil filler cap from the left side of the crankcase. Put the tray under the engine and remove the drain plug and sealing washer.
4. On the right side, undo the bolts and remove the oil filter cover. Let the last oil drain and throw the old filter away.
5. Check the cover O-rings are in good condition. Refit the spring and fit the new filter with its rubber seal facing out, away from the engine. The filter is marked OUTSIDE (TOWARDS FILTER COVER). Fitted wrongly it can cause serious engine damage.
6. Refit the cover and tighten the bolts to 9.8 N·m. Refit the drain plug with a good washer and tighten to 25 N·m.
7. Fill with about 2.0 L of 10W-40 JASO MA oil and refit the filler cap/dipstick.
8. Start the engine and idle for 3–5 minutes, stop it, wait 2–3 minutes and check the level is between the dipstick marks. Do not overfill. Check for leaks.
9. Take the old oil and filter to a proper disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Socket set, Torque wrench (10–25 N·m), Funnel, Shop towels, Gloves

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and remove the seat by pulling the seat lock lever up.
2. Unlatch the four retainer clips and remove the air cleaner housing cover.
3. Loosen the screw, lift out the air cleaner assembly, undo the clamp and slide the foam off its body.
4. Wash it gently in clean non-flammable solvent such as paraffin, never petrol. Squeeze it out; do not twist or wring it, or the foam tears.
5. Check for tears in the foam or seams and replace it if damaged.
6. Let it dry fully, then pour foam filter oil over it inside a clean plastic bag and work it in. Squeeze out the excess.
7. Refit it to its body, put a thin coat of grease on the sealing surface, refit the clamp, put the assembly back and tighten the screw. Refit the cover and seat.
8. Check the breather dust cover at the same time. Clean it if dirty, and do not push it too far into the breather joint.

Tools: Bowl of non-flammable high-flash-point solvent (such as paraffin), Plastic bag, Gloves, Grease, Screwdriver

1. With the engine off, find the drain tube under the rear of the air cleaner housing.
2. If you can see water or dirt in it, remove the clip and pull the tube off.
3. Drain the deposits, refit the tube and secure it with the clip.
4. If there was a lot of water, check the air cleaner element too.

Tools: Pliers for the clip, Rag

1. Let the engine cool and take the key out. The plug is on the left side of the cylinder head.
2. Clean dirt from around the plug base, pull off the cap without straining the lead and unscrew the plug.
3. Look at the electrodes. Replace the plug if the centre electrode is not flat with sharp edges, the side electrode is eroded, the insulator is cracked or deposits are heavy.
4. Check the gap with a wire feeler gauge: 0.8–0.9 mm. Bend only the side electrode to adjust.
5. Screw the plug in by hand with its washer to avoid cross-threading. A used plug: 1/8 turn after it seats. A new plug: Denso 1/2 turn or NGK 3/4 turn after it seats, loosen, then 1/8 turn after it seats again.
6. Refit the plug cap.

Tools: Plug spanner (in the tool kit), Wire-type feeler gauge, Wire brush

1. Only check with the engine cold. Take the key out.
2. Follow the Honda service manual to remove the caps and set the piston at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
3. Check both gaps with feeler gauges: 0.15 mm inlet and exhaust.
4. Too much clearance makes a tapping noise; too little loses power and can damage the valves. Adjust as the service manual describes and recheck.
5. If you do not have the service manual and tools, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners and adjusting tool, Socket set, Service manual

1. With the engine off, check the throttle lever moves smoothly, has the right free play and snaps shut when released, with the handlebars turned fully both ways.
2. Check the choke knob and cable work smoothly.
3. Look along the fuel line for cracks, swelling or leaks. Petrol is highly flammable: no smoking or flames, and wipe up spills.
4. Warm the engine and check it idles at 1,400 ± 100 rpm. Only adjust with the idle stop screw, on level ground, in neutral with the parking brake on.
5. Do it outdoors: exhaust fumes are poisonous.

Tools: Screwdriver, Tachometer (if setting idle)

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on.
2. Check the rubber boots at both ends of each front drive shaft (4x4 models) for cuts, damage or leaking grease, turning the steering to see all round them.
3. Have any damaged boot replaced by your dealer before the joint is damaged.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. Only work on a cold exhaust. A hot silencer burns.
2. Work outdoors, away from anything that can burn.
3. Follow the owner's manual to remove the arrester bolts and clear the carbon, then refit the bolts tightly.
4. Honda marks this as a dealer job unless you have the tools and service data.

Tools: Spanners, Gloves, Eye protection

1. Ride the quad first so the gear oil is warm, then park on firm level ground, set the parking brake and take the key out.
2. Rear: put the tray under the case, remove the filler cap and the drain plug and let it drain fully. Refit the drain plug at 12 N·m.
3. Rear: fill with about 85 ml of SAE 80 hypoid oil. Remove the level check bolt and make sure the oil reaches the check hole. Refit the check bolt and the filler cap.
4. Front (4x4): remove the filler cap and drain plug, drain, refit the drain plug at 12 N·m.
5. Front: fill with about 241 ml until the oil reaches the lower edge of the filler inspection hole, then refit the filler cap.
6. Look at the old oil. Milky oil means water has got in; have the seals checked.

Tools: Small drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (12 N·m), Oil syringe or squeeze bottle