Honda TRX400FW FourTrax Foreman 400 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on.
2. Check the front brake fluid in the window. If it nears the LOWER mark, have the system checked by your dealer: low fluid can mean a leak. Brake fluid irritates skin and eyes and damages paint.
3. Front lever free play at the tip should be 25–30 mm. Remove the inspection hole plugs and measure the lining: standard 4.0 mm, limit 1.0 mm. If worn past the limit, have both shoes replaced by your dealer.
4. If the free play is too much but the linings are within limits: pump the lever, raise the wheels on a block, turn each shoe adjuster in the arrow direction until the wheel locks, back it off three clicks and check it spins freely. Refit the plugs.
5. Rear pedal and rear lever free play should each be 15–20 mm. Adjust with the nuts on the brake rod at the rear of the frame, making sure the cut-out on each nut sits on the brake arm pin.
6. Rear shoes: apply the brake fully. If the arrow on the brake arm lines up with the reference mark, have the shoes replaced. Check the cables are not kinked or worn.
7. After wet work, remove the front inspection hole plugs and the rear drain bolt. If water drains out, have the brake seals replaced as soon as possible.

Tools: Torch, Rule, Flat screwdriver, Support block, Spanners

1. Park on firm level ground, select neutral, set the parking brake, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Run the engine briefly so the oil is warm, then stop it. Hot oil and the exhaust burn, so wear gloves.
3. Remove the oil filler cap/dipstick from the rear crankcase cover. Put the tray under the crankcase and remove the drain plug.
4. Remove the oil filter cover bolts and the cover. Let the last oil drain and throw the old filter away.
5. Check the cover O-rings are in good condition. Refit the spring and fit the new filter with its rubber seal facing out, away from the engine (marked OUTSIDE (TOWARDS FILTER COVER)). Fitted wrongly it can cause serious engine damage.
6. Refit the cover with the bolts tightened securely. Check the drain plug washer is in good condition and refit the plug securely.
7. Fill with about 2.1 L of 10W-40 oil and refit the filler cap/dipstick.
8. Start the engine and idle for a few minutes, stop it and check the level is between the upper and lower dipstick marks. Do not overfill. Check for leaks.
9. Take the old oil to a proper disposal point; do not pour it away.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Socket set, Funnel, Shop towels, Gloves

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and remove the seat by pulling up the seat lock lever.
2. Unlatch the four retainer clips and remove the air cleaner housing cover.
3. Remove the screws and lift out the air cleaner assembly. Unscrew the clamp, remove the mounting bracket and slide the foam off its body.
4. Wash it in non-flammable or high-flash-point solvent and let it dry fully. Never use petrol: it can catch fire or explode.
5. Soak the foam in clean SAE 80–90 gear oil until saturated, then squeeze out the excess. Do not twist it or it will be damaged.
6. Reassemble in reverse order.
7. Check the breather dust cover; clean it if dirty and do not push it into the air cleaner housing.

Tools: Bowl of non-flammable high-flash-point solvent (such as paraffin), Gloves, Screwdriver

1. With the engine off, find the drain tube under the air cleaner housing.
2. If you can see water or dirt in it, remove the tube, drain the deposits and refit it securely.
3. If there was a lot of water, check the air cleaner element too.

Tools: Pliers for the clip, Rag

1. Let the engine cool and take the key out.
2. Disconnect the plug cap, clean dirt from around the plug base and remove the plug with the tool-kit spanner.
3. Look at the electrodes. Replace the plug if the centre electrode is not flat with sharp edges, the side electrode is eroded, or the insulator is cracked or chipped.
4. Check the gap with a wire feeler gauge: 0.8–0.9 mm. Bend only the side electrode.
5. Thread the plug in by hand with its washer. Tighten a new plug 1/2 turn with the spanner to compress the washer; a reused plug only 1/8–1/4 turn after it seats. A loose plug can overheat and damage the engine.
6. Refit the plug cap.

Tools: Plug spanner (in the tool kit), Wire-type feeler gauge

1. Only check with the engine cold. Take the key out.
2. Follow the Honda service manual to remove the caps and set the piston at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
3. Check the clearance: 0.15 mm.
4. Too much clearance makes a tapping noise; too little loses power and can damage the valves. Adjust as the service manual describes and recheck.
5. If you do not have the service manual and tools, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners and adjusting tool, Service manual

1. With the engine off, check the throttle lever moves smoothly and snaps shut, with the handlebars turned fully both ways.
2. Check the choke works smoothly.
3. Look along the fuel line for cracks or leaks. Petrol is highly flammable: no smoking or flames.
4. Warm the engine outdoors and check it idles at 1,400 ± 100 rpm, in neutral with the parking brake on. Adjust only with the idle stop screw.

Tools: Screwdriver, Tachometer (if setting idle)

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on.
2. Check the rubber boots on the front drive shafts for damage or leaking grease, turning the steering to see all round them.
3. Have any damaged boot replaced by your dealer.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. Only work on a cold exhaust, outdoors and away from anything that can burn.
2. Follow the owner's manual or service manual to remove the arrester plugs and clear the carbon, then refit them tightly.
3. Honda marks this as a dealer job unless you have the tools and service data.

Tools: Spanners, Gloves, Eye protection

1. Ride first so the gear oil is warm, then park on level ground, set the parking brake and take the key out.
2. Rear: put the tray under the drain plug, remove the filler cap and drain plug, and let it drain fully. Refit the drain plug at 12 N·m.
3. Rear: fill with about 90 ml of SAE 80 hypoid oil. Remove the oil level check bolt and make sure the oil reaches the check hole. Refit the filler cap and check bolt.
4. Front: remove the filler cap and drain plug, drain, refit the drain plug at 12 N·m.
5. Front: fill with about 190 ml until the oil reaches the lower edge of the inspection hole, then refit the filler cap.
6. Milky oil means water has got in; have the seals checked.

Tools: Small drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (12 N·m), Oil syringe or squeeze bottle