Honda TRX500 Foreman service schedule

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and remove the seat.
2. Unclip the housing cover, slacken the screw and lift out the air cleaner assembly.
3. Remove the clamp and slide the foam off its frame.
4. Wash it gently in non-flammable solvent, never petrol. Squeeze it out without twisting or wringing.
5. Replace it if the foam or seams are torn.
6. When dry, work foam filter oil evenly through it inside a plastic bag and squeeze out the excess.
7. Refit to the frame, grease the sealing face lightly, refit the clamp and put the assembly back. Refit the cover.

Tools: Bowl of non-flammable high-flash-point solvent (such as paraffin), Plastic bag, Gloves, Grease, Screwdriver

1. With the engine off, find the drain tube under the air cleaner housing.
2. If you can see deposits or water in it, release the clip, pull it off and drain it.
3. Refit the tube and clip before starting the engine.

Tools: Pliers for the clip, Rag

1. Let the engine cool, take the key out and remove the seat and tank cover.
2. Clean around the plug base, pull off the cap carefully and unscrew the plug.
3. Replace the plug if it is heavily fouled, worn or cracked.
4. Set the gap to 1.00–1.10 mm with a wire feeler gauge, bending only the side electrode.
5. Screw it in by hand, then tighten as the handbook says (a used plug 1/8 turn after seating).
6. Refit the cap, tank cover and seat.

Tools: Plug spanner (in the tool kit), Wire-type feeler gauge, Wire brush

1. Only check with the engine cold. Take the key out.
2. Follow the Honda service manual to remove the covers and set the piston at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
3. Check the gaps: inlet 0.15 mm, exhaust 0.23 mm.
4. Adjust if needed as the service manual describes, then recheck. Otherwise have your dealer do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners and adjusting tool, Socket set, Service manual

1. Park on level ground, engine off, parking brake on.
2. Check the front brake fluid level is between the marks. A falling level means worn pads or a leak.
3. Check the pad wear indicators on both front calipers and replace both pads on both sides if worn to the mark.
4. Rear drum: apply the brake fully. If the arrow on the brake arm lines up with the reference mark, the shoes need replacing.
5. After wet work, remove the rear brake drain bolt. If water comes out, have the brake seals replaced. Refit the bolt with a new washer at 12 N·m.
6. Have the brake fluid replaced every 2 years.

Tools: Torch, Rag, Torque wrench (12 N·m)

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Check the propeller shaft boots, the yoke joint boot and both ends of each front driveshaft for cuts, damage or leaking grease.
3. Have any split boot replaced by your dealer before the joint wears.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. Park on firm level ground, select neutral, set the parking brake, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Warm the engine briefly so the oil drains well. Hot oil and exhaust burn, so wear gloves.
3. Take out the dipstick, put the tray under the engine and remove the drain bolt and sealing washer.
4. Take off the seat and tank cover, put towels under the filter cover on the right side, undo the bolts and take the cover off. Let the last oil drain and throw the old filter away.
5. Oil the new O-rings and fit them. Put the spring back and fit the new filter with the rubber seal facing out, towards the cover (marked OUT-SIDE). Fitted the wrong way round it can wreck the engine.
6. Refit the cover with the bolts at 10 N·m, and the drain bolt with a new washer at 25 N·m.
7. Fill with about 3.0 L of 10W-30 JASO MA oil and refit the dipstick.
8. Idle for 3–5 minutes, stop, wait 2–3 minutes and check the level is between the marks. Check for leaks and refit the tank cover and seat.
9. Take the old oil to a proper disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Socket set, Torque wrench (10–25 N·m), Funnel, Shop towels, Gloves

1. Ride first so the oil is warm, then park on firm level ground, set the parking brake and take the key out.
2. Rear: remove the fill cap and drain bolt and drain. Refit the drain bolt with a new washer at 12 N·m.
3. Rear: remove the level check bolt and fill slowly until oil runs from the check hole (about 85 ml). Wait 2–3 minutes, then refit the check bolt and the fill cap with new seals at 12 N·m.
4. Front: remove the fill cap and drain bolt, drain, and refit the drain bolt with a new washer at 12 N·m.
5. Front: fill with about 325 ml to the lower edge of the fill hole and refit the cap with a greased new O-ring at 12 N·m.
6. Milky old oil means water is getting in: have the seals checked.

Tools: Small drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (12 N·m), Oil syringe or squeeze bottle, Grease

1. Work only on a cold engine. Never open the radiator cap hot.
2. Honda says replacement needs the service manual; otherwise have your dealer drain and bleed the system.
3. Mix 50/50 with distilled water only. Top up through the reserve tank to the UPPER mark.
4. Wash mud off the radiator with low-pressure water only.
5. Catch and dispose of old coolant properly; it is poisonous to animals.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Antifreeze tester, Soft brush and low-pressure hose