Honda TRX520 FourTrax Foreman / Foreman Rubicon service schedule

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and remove the seat.
2. Unlatch the retainer clips and lift off the air cleaner housing cover.
3. Slacken the screw and lift out the air cleaner assembly, remove the clamp and slide the foam off its frame.
4. Wash it gently in non-flammable solvent such as paraffin, never petrol. Squeeze it out; do not twist or wring it, or the foam tears.
5. Check for tears or split seams and replace it if damaged. Let it dry fully.
6. Work foam filter oil evenly through it inside a plastic bag and squeeze out the excess.
7. Refit it to the frame, refit the clamp, put the assembly back in the housing and tighten the screw.
8. Refit the cover with the FRONT mark facing forward and the cut-out fitted to the tab. Check the breather dust cover and clean it if dirty.

Tools: Bowl of non-flammable high-flash-point solvent (such as paraffin), Plastic bag, Gloves, Screwdriver

1. With the engine off, find the drain tube under the air cleaner housing.
2. If you can see water or dirt in it, release the clip and pull the tube off.
3. Drain the deposits, refit the tube and secure it with the clip.
4. If there was a lot of water, check the air cleaner too.

Tools: Pliers for the clip, Rag

1. Let the engine cool, take the key out and remove the seat and tank cover.
2. Clean dirt from around the plug, pull off the cap carefully and unscrew the plug.
3. Look at the electrodes. Replace the plug if it is heavily fouled, worn or the insulator is cracked.
4. Check the gap with a wire feeler gauge: 1.00–1.10 mm. Bend only the side electrode to adjust.
5. Screw the plug in by hand to avoid cross-threading. A used plug: 1/8 turn after it seats. A new plug: NGK 3/4 turn or Denso 1/2 turn after it seats, loosen, then 1/8 turn after it seats again.
6. Refit the cap, tank cover and seat.

Tools: Plug spanner (in the tool kit), Wire-type feeler gauge, Wire brush

1. Only check with the engine cold. Take the key out.
2. Follow the Honda service manual to remove the covers and set the piston at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
3. Check the gaps with feeler gauges: inlet 0.15 ± 0.02 mm, exhaust 0.23 ± 0.02 mm.
4. Adjust if needed as the service manual describes, then recheck.
5. If you do not have the service manual and tools, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners and adjusting tool, Socket set, Service manual

1. Make sure the engine is cool and the ignition is off.
2. At the left front of the engine, slacken the lock nut on the clutch adjuster.
3. Turn the adjuster anticlockwise until you feel slight resistance, then turn it 1/4 turn clockwise and tighten the lock nut.
4. Start the engine and test ride to check the clutch works properly. If it still slips or will not adjust, the friction discs may be worn: see your dealer.

Tools: Spanner for the lock nut, Screwdriver

1. Park on level ground, engine off, parking brake on.
2. Check the front brake fluid is above the LOWER mark in the reservoir window (Rubicon: also check the rear reservoir on the right is between UPPER and LOWER). A falling level usually means worn pads or a leak.
3. Look at the pad wear indicators on both front calipers (and the rear caliper on the Rubicon). If an indicator lines up with its reference mark, both pads in that caliper need replacing.
4. Foreman rear drum: apply the brake fully and check the arrow on the brake arm. If it lines up with the reference mark on the brake panel, the shoes need replacing. Check the pedal and the rear lever each have 15–20 mm free play at the tip.
5. Check hoses for cracks and leaks. Brake fluid damages paint and plastics, so wipe up spills at once.
6. Every 2 years have the brake fluid replaced.

Tools: Torch, Rag, Rule, Torque wrench (12 N·m)

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on.
2. Check the propeller shaft boots and the yoke joint boot for cuts, damage or leaking grease.
3. Check the front driveshaft and tie-rod boots, turning the steering to see all round them.
4. Have any split boot replaced by your dealer before the joint is damaged.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. Work outside, well away from straw, hay or anything that can burn, with the exhaust cool.
2. Remove the purge bolt at the back of the silencer.
3. Start the engine and rev it about twenty times while briefly blocking the end of the silencer with a shop towel, to blow the carbon out.
4. Stop the engine, let the exhaust cool and refit the bolt securely.

Tools: Spanner for the purge bolt, Shop towel, Safety glasses

1. Park on firm level ground, select neutral, set the parking brake, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Ride or idle the quad briefly so the oil is warm, then stop it. Hot oil and exhaust burn, so wear gloves.
3. Take off the oil check/fill door on the left, pull out the filler cap/dipstick, put the tray under the engine and remove the drain bolt and its sealing washer.
4. Take off the seat and tank cover, put towels under the filter cover on the right of the engine, undo the cover bolts and take off the cover and O-rings. Let the last oil drain and throw the old filter away.
5. Oil the new O-rings and fit them to the cover and crankcase cover. Put the spring back on the crankcase cover and fit the new filter with its rubber seal facing out, away from the engine. The filter is marked OUT-SIDE (TOWARDS FILTER COVER). Fitted the wrong way round it can wreck the engine.
6. Refit the cover and tighten the bolts to 10 N·m. Refit the tank cover and seat.
7. Refit the drain bolt with a new washer at 25 N·m. Fill with about 3.0 L of 10W-30 JASO MA oil and refit the dipstick.
8. Start the engine and idle for 3–5 minutes, stop it, wait 2–3 minutes and check the level is between the marks with the dipstick resting in, not screwed in. Check for leaks and refit the check door.
9. Take the old oil to a proper disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Socket set, Torque wrench (10–25 N·m), Funnel, Shop towels, Gloves

1. Ride the quad first so the gear oil is warm, then park on firm level ground, set the parking brake and take the key out.
2. Front: remove the fill cap, O-ring, drain bolt and washer, let it drain, then refit the drain bolt with a new washer at 12 N·m. Fill with about 325 ml to the lower edge of the fill inspection hole and refit the fill cap with a greased new O-ring at 12 N·m.
3. Rear (Foreman): drain the same way, refit the drain bolt at 12 N·m, remove the level check bolt and fill slowly until oil runs out of the check hole (about 85 ml). Wait 2–3 minutes, then refit the check bolt with a new washer and the fill cap with a greased new O-ring, both at 12 N·m.
4. Rear (Rubicon): drain, refit the drain bolt at 12 N·m and fill with about 125 ml to the lower edge of the fill inspection hole. Refit the fill cap with a greased new O-ring at 12 N·m.
5. Look at the old oil. Milky oil means water has got in; have the seals checked.

Tools: Small drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (12 N·m), Oil syringe or squeeze bottle, Grease

1. Work only on a cold engine. Never take the radiator cap off hot: coolant can spray out and scald you.
2. Honda says the replacement needs the service manual; if you do not have it, have your dealer do the drain and bleed.
3. Mix antifreeze 50/50 with distilled water only (not tap water). Do not go below 40% or above 60% antifreeze.
4. For top-ups, check the reserve tank at the left front with the engine at working temperature and keep it between the UPPER and LOWER marks. If it empties or keeps dropping, look for leaks.
5. Coolant is poisonous to animals: catch it all and dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Antifreeze tester, Soft brush and low-pressure hose for the radiator