International Harvester 574 service schedule

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and lower implements.
2. Grease: steering arm pivot, steering knuckles, levelling box, levelling screw, front axle pivot pins (front and rear), steering cylinder pivot pins (upper and lower nipples).
3. Check the crankcase and transmission dipsticks and clean the radiator and oil cooler fins from the back with air or water.

Tools: Grease gun, Rags

1. Run the engine to normal temperature, park level, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the crankcase drain plug and let the oil drain. Wear gloves; it burns. Refit the plug.
3. Turn the old filter anti-clockwise to remove it and throw it away.
4. Screw the new filter on clockwise by hand until tight. Do not use tools to tighten it.
5. Fill the crankcase with the correct grade to between the MINIMUM and MAXIMUM marks.
6. Run at low idle without load for a few minutes, check for leaks and that the oil pressure gauge works, then recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner for drain plug, Filter wrench (removal only), Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Remove the breather pipe and withdraw the element.
2. Wash the element in clean diesel fuel.
3. Refit it and secure it with the breather pipe.

Tools: Spanners, Clean diesel for washing

1. Loosen the bolt and withdraw the filter case from the multiple control valve on the left of the rear frame. Some fluid will be lost.
2. Discard the O-ring and element, take the by-pass valve off the bolt and clean its screen with a brush and kerosene or diesel. Clean the case.
3. Fit a new O-ring (lubricated with Hy-Tran) in the control valve groove and a new O-ring on the bolt, assemble the by-pass valve and new element, and refit the case.
4. Tighten the bolt to 1.7–2.2 kgm (12–16 lbf ft). Do not overtighten.
5. Hydrostatic filter: screw the bolt out about 9 mm to close the check valve, remove the cover, gasket, by-pass valve and element, clean the screen, fit a new element and gasket, then screw the bolt back in.
6. Purge air by working the hydraulics and steering, and top up the fluid.

Tools: Spanners, Torque wrench, Brush and kerosene, Drain tray

1. Total pedal movement should be 152 mm (6 in) from the footplate; adjust with the locknut and adjusting screw.
2. Free travel should be 44.5 mm (1.75 in). When that can no longer be reached it may be set to 25.4 mm (1 in), but never below 16 mm (5/8 in).
3. To adjust free travel, loosen the locknut, turn the clevis on the rod and retighten.
4. Grease the clutch release shaft, and on early models the release bearing through the plate under the tractor.

Tools: Spanners, Rule, Grease gun

1. Press midway along the longest run with an 11 kg (25 lb) load; the belt should deflect 19 mm (3/4 in).
2. To adjust, loosen the mounting and brace bolts, move the alternator away from the engine and retighten.
3. To fit a new belt, slacken the alternator, take the old belt off the pulleys and work it over the fan blades.

Tools: Spanners, Rule, Spring balance or known load

1. Rear wheel to rim: 11.1–15.2 kgm (80–110 lbf ft).
2. Rear wheel to axle (hub nuts): 28.3–30.4 kgm (205–220 lbf ft).
3. Front wheel nuts: 8.3–11.1 kgm (60–80 lbf ft) on 5.50 and 6.00 wheels, 11.1–13.8 kgm (80–100 lbf ft) on 7.50 wheels.

Tools: Torque wrench with suitable sockets

1. Loosen the knurled thumb screws and remove the access panel in the bonnet.
2. Pull the centre of the clip outward, withdraw it from the slot and swing it clear. Slowly withdraw the element and throw it away.
3. Wipe dirt from inside the body with a damp cloth and tighten all connections. Make sure the flat side of the dust unloader lines up with the fan blast.
4. Fit the new element, secure the clip and refit the panel. Every 800 hours also check the intake manifold bolts are tight.

Tools: Damp cloth

1. Warm the engine (D-239 clearances are set warm), stop it and take the key out.
2. Head bolts: tighten in the sequence shown in the handbook in three stages, 4 kgm (29 lbf ft), 8 kgm (58 lbf ft), then 14–15 kgm (101–109 lbf ft).
3. Remove the valve cover. Valves run exhaust, inlet, exhaust, inlet from the front.
4. Turn No. 1 piston to TDC on compression (timing pointer on the TDC mark; No. 1 and 2 push rods free to spin). Adjust valves 1, 2, 4 and 5.
5. Turn the engine one full turn and adjust the remaining valves. Inlet 0.25 mm (0.010 in), exhaust 0.30 mm (0.012 in).
6. Slacken the locknut, turn the screw until the feeler slides between the valve tip and the lever pad, hold the screw and tighten the locknut. Recheck, then refit the cover.

Tools: Torque wrench, Feeler gauges 0.25 and 0.30 mm, Ring spanner, Screwdriver

1. Close the fuel shut-off valve at the tank and put a container under the filters. Do not let fuel run onto the starter motor.
2. CAV system: open the vent screws and drain valves, unscrew the centre bolts, pull the elements down off their O-rings, and fit new O-rings and elements. Clean the bowl and bases, fit new O-rings and tighten the centre bolts to 0.8–1 kgm (6–8 lbf ft).
3. Bosch system: drain, remove the sediment bowl, unscrew the elements anti-clockwise, fit new seals and elements hand tight, and refit the bowl with a new seal.
4. Close the drain valves and vent the system: open each vent screw in turn (primary, secondary, pump body, pump cover on CAV) and work the priming lever until air-free fuel flows. Do not exceed 2 kgm (15 lbf ft) on the filter vent screws.
5. Never turn the engine with the fuel system empty; the pump is fuel-lubricated.

Tools: Spanners, Torque wrench, Container, Rags

1. Remove the plug to which the filter is attached.
2. Clean the filter thoroughly.
3. Check the sealing washer and refit the assembly. Vent the fuel system if needed.

Tools: Spanner, Clean fuel

1. Book the injectors in for testing and servicing by a dealer or diesel specialist every 800 hours.
2. Do not adjust the injection pump yourself; unauthorised adjustment voids the warranty.

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the three drain plugs (front, centre and rear) and let the fluid drain. Refit the plugs.
3. Change the transmission filter and clean the by-pass screen (see the filter task).
4. Hydrostatic only: first add at least 23 L (5 gal) of Hy-Tran through the filler on top of the hydrostatic housing.
5. Fill through the transmission filler plug to the full mark on the dipstick.
6. Run the engine at moderate speed in neutral and work the hydraulics and steering through several full cycles (and the forward/reverse control on hydrostatics) to purge air. Recheck the level: run at 1,600 rpm for three minutes first, and check gear-drive tractors with the engine stopped.

Tools: Large drain trays (70 L), Spanners, Torque wrench, Brush and kerosene, Funnel or pump

1. Raise the front until the wheels are clear and support it.
2. Remove the hub cap, cotter pin, nut, washer and outer bearing, then lift off the wheel.
3. Clean the old grease from the hub, both bearings and the hub cap with kerosene. Check the oil seal and dirt deflector.
4. Pack the bearing rollers with chassis grease and refit the wheel, outer bearing, washer and nut.
5. Tighten the nut to 9.7 kgm (70 lbf ft) while turning the wheel, back it off, tighten to 6.9 kgm (50 lbf ft), then back off 1/4 turn and fit the cotter pin.
6. Refit the hub cap. Do not pack the hub or cap with grease.

Tools: Jack and axle stands, Socket set, Torque wrench, Kerosene and tray

1. Run at fast idle for a few minutes, stop the engine and carefully remove the radiator cap (turn to the safety stop first and let pressure escape).
2. Remove the crankcase-side engine drain plug and open the radiator drain tap; drain quickly while sediment is still stirred up.
3. Flush until clear water runs.
4. Close the tap, refit the plug and fill slowly to about 32 mm above the radiator core.
5. Run at fast idle for a few minutes to clear air, stop and top up, then refit the cap tightly.

Tools: Drain tray, Hose, Hydrometer