JCB 3CX backhoe loader service schedule

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the key and disconnect the battery, and chock all four wheels before getting under the machine.
3. Two strokes of the gun is normally enough: stop when fresh grease shows. Count off the points so none are missed, and refit the dust caps.
4. The front axle has a remote grease point on the side of the chassis near the left front wheel.
5. On sideshift machines, release the kingpost clamps and lower the excavator before greasing the sideshift. Grease kingpost points 2 and 3 with a hand gun so the mounting plate is not distorted.

Tools: Grease gun (hand gun for kingpost points 2 and 3), Rags

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Turn the tap on the fuel filter to drain off any water, then drain and clean the sedimenter bowl.
3. With the engine stopped and battery disconnected, check the fan belt: about 10 mm slack midway. Adjust at the alternator bolts if needed.
4. Extend the dipper and coat the runners with Waxoyl. Keep flames away: it is flammable while it dries.
5. Check the stabiliser legs and the sideshift chain, if fitted.

Tools: Container, Spanners, Grease gun, Brush

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Before getting under the machine, also disconnect the battery and chock the wheels. If you must work with the loader arms raised, fit the loader arm safety strut first.
3. Run the engine first so the oil is warm. Drain the oil warm, not hot, and keep to one side when the plug comes out: oil will gush out and can burn.
4. Remove the sump plug and its O-ring and let the oil drain. Refit the plug with a new O-ring at 34 N·m.
5. Unscrew the filter (it is full of oil), check the adapter is tight and clean the filter head.
6. Pour clean oil into the new filter and give it time to soak through. Oil the seal and screw it on hand tight only.
7. Fill to the max mark on the dipstick. JCB says crank the engine with the stop solenoid fuse out until the oil light goes out, then refit the fuse and start it.
8. Check for leaks, and recheck the level once the engine has cooled.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Filter wrench, Socket set, Torque wrench, Funnel, Gloves

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. No smoking or naked flames.
3. Unscrew the element (it may need a strap wrench). It will be full of fuel.
4. Fill the new element with clean fuel to help bleeding and fit it hand tight only.
5. Bleed the system: work the lift pump priming lever slowly for about two minutes. If nothing moves, turn the engine over on the starter and try again.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks. If it runs and then stops, look for air leaks on the low-pressure side.

Tools: Strap wrench, Container for fuel, Rags

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Blow dust out of the radiator and oil cooler fins from the clean side.
3. Take the cover off the cab heater filter, knock off loose dust and blow air through the folds against the arrows, at no more than 7 bar. Change it if damaged.
4. Parking brake: release the lever, turn the handle grip half a turn clockwise and test. If it still fails at the end of adjustment, have the brake checked.
5. Examine and grease the hydraulic pump drive shaft. Check battery terminals and wiring.

Tools: Compressed air (max 7 bar), Soft brush, Screwdrivers

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Unscrew the filter and catch the oil.
3. Smear the seal with transmission oil, screw the filter on until it touches the head, then turn it at least another 3/4 turn.
4. Run the engine slowly for no more than five minutes, stop, wait about 20 seconds and top up to the dipstick mark.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Before getting under the machine, also disconnect the battery and chock the wheels. If you must work with the loader arms raised, fit the loader arm safety strut first.
3. With the machine level, drain through the magnetic plug, clean it and refit at 79 N·m.
4. Fill to the bottom of the fill/level hole and refit the plug at 79 N·m.

Tools: Drain tray, Torque wrench, Oil pump

1. Rest the loader shovel on the ground, retract the extending dipper, close the bucket, swing in the dipper, lower the boom and the stabilisers, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the cover screws, plate, gasket and spring, and pull the element assembly out by its handle.
3. Turn the element 90° anticlockwise to free it from its canister, discard it and its seal, and clean the canister.
4. Fit a new seal, push the new element in and turn it 90° to lock. Refit the assembly, spring and gasket, and tighten the cover screws to 21 N·m.
5. Top up to the red mark on the sight glass with the machine in the same position.

Tools: Spanners, Torque wrench, Rags

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Before getting under the machine, also disconnect the battery and chock the wheels. If you must work with the loader arms raised, fit the loader arm safety strut first.
3. Grease the front and rear drive shaft points, the steer axle pivots and the track rod linkages until fresh grease shows.
4. Check the steer axle movement and shimming and the drive shaft bolts while you are there.

Tools: Grease gun, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Take off the left engine side panel.
2. Press the clips, lift off the cover and draw out the outer element without knocking it.
3. Clean inside the canister, the cover and the dust valve.
4. Push the new element firmly in so its seal seats, and refit the cover with the dust valve at the bottom. Mark the inner element with a pen each time you change the outer one.

Tools: Clean damp cloth, Felt pen

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Before getting under the machine, also disconnect the battery and chock the wheels. If you must work with the loader arms raised, fit the loader arm safety strut first.
3. Syncro Shuttle: drain through the strainer opening. Remove the bolts, pull out the strainer and gasket, clean the strainer in solvent and refit it with a new gasket, bolts threadlocked at 10 N·m.
4. Powershift: drain through the cover plate, not the sump plug, so the debris is flushed out. Refit the plate with a new gasket, bolts threadlocked at 28 N·m.
5. Fit a new filter as in the filter task.
6. Fill through the dipstick tube, never past the top mark. Run slowly for up to five minutes, wait 20 seconds and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Torque wrench, Filter wrench, Solvent, Gloves

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Before getting under the machine, also disconnect the battery and chock the wheels. If you must work with the loader arms raised, fit the loader arm safety strut first.
3. The machine must be level or the level reading will be wrong.
4. Remove the magnetic drain plug and clean off any metal. Refit it at 79 N·m.
5. Hubs: set the OIL LEVEL mark vertical with the plug at the bottom, drain, then set the mark horizontal and fill to the bottom of the hole.
6. Fill the housing through the fill/level hole until oil is level with the bottom of the hole, and refit the plug at 79 N·m.
7. After a hub or brake repair, JCB says change the oil again after a further 100 hours.

Tools: Drain trays, Torque wrench, Oil pump

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Cover the end of the intake hose so no dirt or rain gets in.
3. Remove the outer element, then lift the pulls and take out the inner element.
4. Fit the new inner, then the outer element, seat both seals and refit the cover.

Tools: Clean damp cloth

1. Set the machine as for the filter change, then also disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the filler cap, put a big enough container under the tank and remove the drain plug.
3. Undo the clips and disconnect the return pipe, unscrew the suction strainer with a 65 mm spanner and discard it.
4. Fit the new strainer at 15–20 N·m, reconnect the hose with the clips 180° apart, and refit the drain plug at 100 N·m.
5. Change the filter element, refill with all rams closed and watch the sight glass. Fit the new cap: screw on until it resists, then a further quarter turn.
6. If the oil in the sight glass looks cloudy at any time, water or air has got in. Stop and get it checked: the pump can be badly damaged.

Tools: Container for 140 L, 65 mm A/F spanner, Torque wrench, Clips pliers

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. JCB marks this as a specialist job. Drain and bleed as the service manual shows, topping up with ISO VG15 fluid only.
3. If the reservoir needs regular topping up, have the brakes checked. Do not use the machine until it is fixed.

Tools: Bleed tube and jar, Spanners

1. Park on firm level ground, put the parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. Lower the loader shovel and the backhoe to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Only work on a cool engine. Loosen the cap slowly to let pressure out.
3. Remove the drain plug and disconnect the radiator hose to drain. Flush with clean water.
4. Refit the plug and hose, set the cab heater to hot, and fill with the mix to the COLD/MIN mark.
5. Run at idle to circulate, top up, refit the cap, warm the engine up and check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Hose for flushing, Antifreeze tester