JCB Fastrac 3230 service schedule

1. Park level, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Wipe each propshaft and PTO grease nipple and give a light greasing as the handbook shows.
3. Drain water from the fuel pre-filter until clean fuel shows.
4. Squeeze the air filter dust valve clear.
5. Empty the hydraulic coupling drain reservoir (more often if it fills quickly).

Tools: Grease gun, Small container, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Wear goggles and a dust mask: the filter may be full of dust or chemical residue.
3. Remove the old filter, fit the new one and check the cover seals.

Tools: Screwdriver, Goggles, Dust mask

1. Park on firm level ground, lower all implements and the front and rear linkage to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the engine stand for about 10 minutes after work so the oil is warm but not scalding. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
3. Remove the sump plug and let the oil drain fully. Used engine oil is harmful to skin, so wash it off promptly.
4. Clean around the filter head, unscrew the old filter and make sure its seal has come off with it.
5. Oil the new filter seal and fit the filter by hand as marked on the filter. Do not over-tighten.
6. Refit the sump plug and fill with JCB EP 15W/40 to the full mark on the dipstick.
7. Run the engine for a minute, check for leaks, stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck the dipstick.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Filter wrench, Socket for sump plug, Funnel, Gloves, Rags

1. Park level, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Keep naked flames away.
2. Clean the outside of both filters so no dirt can get in.
3. Drain each filter into a container, then remove the old elements.
4. Fit the new elements with new seals as the handbook shows.
5. Bleed the fuel system as the handbook describes before starting. Do not crank for long spells; let the starter cool between tries.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Filter wrench, Container for fuel, Rags, Gloves

1. Park level, lower the linkage and implements to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean around the filter and remove it, catching the oil.
3. Oil the new filter seal and fit it by hand.
4. Check the gearbox level: run the engine for one minute, stop it, wait two minutes and check. Top up if needed but do not overfill, or oil is forced out past the seals.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Park level, lower all implements and both linkages to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. With the engine off, work the spool and linkage controls to let out any trapped pressure. Fluid at system pressure can pierce skin.
3. Clean around the filter housing, open it and remove the element.
4. Fit the new element with a new seal and close the housing.
5. Start the engine, check for leaks, then lower everything and check the level on the sight gauge.

Tools: Spanners, Drain tray, Lint-free rags, Gloves

1. Park level, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Turn the wheels so each hub plug is in the drain position your handbook shows.
3. Drain each hub, then turn it to the level position and fill to the level plug.
4. Refit the plugs and wipe the hubs clean so you can see any leaks later.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never run the engine with the filter out.
2. Open the air filter housing and take out the outer element. Leave the inner element in place.
3. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp cloth. Do not blow dirt into the intake.
4. Fit the new element, check its seal sits evenly and close the housing.
5. Squeeze the dust valve to make sure it is clear.

Tools: Torch, Damp cloth

1. Park on firm level ground, lower all implements and linkages, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the tractor stand so the oil is warm but not hot enough to scald. Wear gloves.
3. Remove the drain plugs and let the oil drain fully.
4. Take out the strainer, clean it in a suitable solvent, and refit it with a new seal.
5. Fit a new transmission filter.
6. Refit the plugs and fill with fresh oil to the correct mark.
7. Run the engine for one minute, stop it, wait two minutes and recheck. Do not overfill.

Tools: Large drain tray (50 L), Spanners and sockets, Filter wrench, Pump or funnel, Parts-cleaning tray, Gloves

1. Park on firm level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the tractor stand so the oil is warm, not scalding. Wear gloves.
3. Drain the front axle housing and the rear axle into trays.
4. Refit the drain plugs and fill each to its level plug with HP90.
5. Refit the level and filler plugs and check for leaks after the next run.

Tools: Large drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump

1. Park level, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let all the air out of the system through the drain valves before undoing anything.
3. Change the dryer canister and the line filter as the handbook shows.
4. Start the engine, build full pressure, stop the engine and listen for leaks.

Tools: Strap wrench, Spanners, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Take out the outer element, then the inner element. Cover the intake straight away so nothing falls in.
3. Fit the new inner element, then the outer element, and close the housing.

Tools: Torch, Damp cloth

1. Park on firm level ground, lower all implements and both linkages, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Work all controls with the engine off to release trapped pressure.
3. Put a container of at least 120 L under the drain plug. Stand to one side when you remove the plug: the oil gushes out.
4. Remove the suction strainers, clean them in solvent and refit them with the specified sealant.
5. Fit a new filter element.
6. Refit the plug and fill with the recommended fluid. Using the wrong fluid can damage the system.
7. Start the engine, work the hydraulics through their travel, lower everything, stop the engine and check the sight gauge.

Tools: Container for at least 120 L, Spanners, Parts-cleaning tray and solvent, Pump, Gloves

1. Only work on a cold engine. The cooling system is under pressure when hot.
2. Turn the cap to the first notch to let pressure out, then remove it.
3. Drain the radiator and block into trays. Dispose of old coolant properly; it is poisonous to animals.
4. Refit the drain plugs and fill with the correct mix.
5. Run the engine to working temperature with the heater on, let it cool and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (40 L), Hose, Coolant tester

1. Park level, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels firmly; the brakes will not work properly while you do this.
2. Bleed old fluid out at each calliper as the handbook shows, keeping the reservoirs topped up with fresh DOT 4.
3. Wipe up any spills at once: brake fluid strips paint.
4. Test the brakes at low speed in a safe place before road work.

Tools: Bleed tube and jar, Ring spanner for bleed screws, Rags

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Work on a cold engine.
2. Remove the rocker cover and check each valve with a feeler gauge at the clearance in your handbook (not given in our sources).
3. Adjust where needed, refit the cover with a sound gasket and check for leaks.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Engine turning tool, Socket set