John Deere 8020 series wheeled: 8120, 8220, 8320, 8420, 8520 service schedule

1. Take off the recirculation filter cover behind the seat and lift out the filter. Clean it with compressed air, or fit a new one.
2. Take off the cover under the right-hand corner of the cab, undo the retaining nut and pull the fresh air filter out.
3. Clean the inside of the housing before refitting.
4. Clean or replace the filter, refit it and the covers. These filters do not stop spray chemicals; follow the chemical maker's advice.

Tools: Compressed air (low pressure), Screwdriver, Dust mask

1. Run the engine for about 5 minutes to warm the oil, then stop it. Park on level ground, apply the park brake, lower the linkage and any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Take off the engine oil fill cap at the dipstick.
3. Put the tray under the drain plug and remove the plug. Leave the small plug on the filter housing alone: the oil in the housing drains back into the engine when the filter comes out.
4. Undo the oil filter cover with a 32 mm spanner and lift it so the filter drains into the crankcase.
5. Take off the cover with the filter, knock the filter against something solid to free it from the cover and throw it away.
6. Take off the old O-ring and fit the new one that comes with the filter. Press the new filter into the cover until it snaps in.
7. Refit the cover and filter and tighten the cover to 40 N·m.
8. Refit the drain plug once the oil has stopped, then fill with the right quantity of oil for your model and axle.
9. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it and recheck the level. Take the old oil to a proper disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), 32 mm spanner, Torque wrench (40 N·m), Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. MFWD axle: grease the kingpin fittings (top and bottom of each) until grease shows at the bottom of each kingpin bearing, then the tie rods, the steering cylinder, and the front and rear axle pivot fittings.
2. MFWD U-joints: grease both U-joints at the fitting on each. The outer joints are sealed; for very wet work Deere gives an M10 90-degree fitting, part 58M5580, in place of the plug.
3. ILS axle: grease the upper and lower control arms, kingpins, both ends of each suspension cylinder and the tie rods.
4. 2WD axle: grease every fitting on the axle.
5. Hitch: grease the rockshaft, lift cylinders, lift links and centre link, and the front hitch if fitted.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Check the MFWD differential case oil level (just below the plug hole) and top up with Hy-Gard if low.
2. Turn each wheel hub until the words OIL LEVEL are horizontal, take out the plug and check the oil is just below the hole. Top up with GL-5 gear lubricant.
3. Drain a little from the fuel tank sump to remove water and dirt.
4. Check the neutral start system and the transmission park position work, and check the manual brakes.
5. Check the wheel and wheel weight bolts for tightness, using the torque figures in your handbook.

Tools: Spanners, Torque wrench, Drain container

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and clean around the filters well.
2. Drain water and dirt from the bottom of the filter(s) into a container.
3. Remove the old filter(s), wet the new seal with fuel and fit the new ones hand-tight, as marked on the filter.
4. Bleed the system as your handbook describes (check your handbook for the procedure on your engine) and start the engine.
5. Check for leaks.

Tools: Container for fuel, Filter wrench, Rags, Gloves

1. Only when the engine is cold, undo the cap slowly.
2. Dip a test strip in the coolant and compare it with the chart.
3. Add Cool-Gard II extender only as the chart says.

Tools: Test strips

1. Park, stop the engine and chock the wheels. Clean around the filter.
2. Remove the old filter and catch the oil. Check the old seal came off.
3. Wet the new seal with hydraulic oil only and fit the filter hand-tight.
4. Run the engine for a minute, stop it, check for leaks and recheck the oil level.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags, Gloves

1. Take off the back panel (four screws) and lift out the fuel tank vent filter.
2. Wash it in a soapy solution, blow it dry and refit it, or fit a new one if it is blocked or due.
3. Take the MFWD axle vent filter off and blow air through it from bottom to top. If it is packed with dirt, soak it in solvent first.

Tools: Screwdriver, Compressed air (low pressure)

1. Warm the oil by driving, then park on level ground, apply the park brake, lower the linkage and any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the rear differential case and the one on the transmission housing. On ILS tractors also remove the ILS differential plug. Drain into trays.
3. On PowerShift tractors, remove the large filter screen plug and take the screen out. Wash it in solvent and blow it dry. On IVT tractors take off the four-screw cover, look at the screen through the bottom plug and clean it if dirty.
4. Clean the hydraulic oil suction screen (differential case, front left) in solvent and blow it dry. Refit its tube with the O-ring in place.
5. Remove the transmission/hydraulic filter, check the old seal came off, wet the new seal with hydraulic oil only and fit it hand-tight.
6. Fill with Hy-Gard, run the engine for several minutes, check for leaks, stop and recheck the level after at least 5 minutes.

Tools: Large drain trays (170 L in all), Spanners and sockets, Filter wrench, Pump or funnel, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the differential case drain plug and let the oil drain. Refit it at 70 N·m.
3. Fill through the fill hole until the oil is level with the bottom of the hole (on the 1500 axle, until it reaches the check hole). Refit the plugs.
4. Turn each wheel so the drain/fill hole is at the bottom, remove the plug and drain the hub.
5. Turn the hub so the plug position is horizontal, fill with GL-5 gear lubricant to the bottom of the hole and refit the plug.
6. After a few minutes' running recheck the differential level and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Socket set, Torque wrench (70 N·m), Funnel, Gloves

1. Only work on a cold engine. Take off the de-aeration cap slowly.
2. Open the radiator drain valve and the engine drain valve and drain into trays. On cabs with automatic temperature control, set it to HI with the key in RUN so the heater drains too.
3. Take the thermostat cover off, remove the thermostats, refit the cover without them (the torque in your handbook) and flush with cleaner, then with water, running the engine at 1,500 rpm or more for 15 minutes each time.
4. Fit new thermostats with a new gasket, tighten the cover screws to the torque in your handbook and refit the hoses, tube and brace.
5. Fill with the correct coolant mix, top the recovery tank up to Full Hot and run the engine to warm up. Top up until it stops losing coolant to the ground.
6. Check for leaks before the machine goes back to work.

Tools: Drain trays, Hose and clamps, Torque wrench, RTV sealant, Radiator tester

1. Ask your John Deere dealer to adjust the valve clearance at the 2,000-hour service.

Tools: Booking with your dealer

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Release the plastic clips and take off the filter cover.
2. Turn and pull the primary filter out. Clean it with dry compressed air from the inside, moving up and down the pleats.
3. Hold a bright light inside it. Throw it away if the paper is torn, holed or the gasket is damaged.
4. Do not clean the secondary filter. Fit a new one if it is due, straight away, so no dust gets in.
5. Refit the filters and the cover.

Tools: Compressed air (low pressure), Torch

1. Service the batteries: clean the terminals and tighten the connections.
2. Inspect the auxiliary drive belt for cracks and wear.
3. Inspect the seat belt for fraying and check it latches.
4. On ILS tractors, ask your dealer to check the suspension accumulator charge pressure.

Tools: Torch, Battery tester or hydrometer