John Deere Gator 4x2 and 6x4 service schedule

1. Run the engine for a few minutes to warm the oil, then park on level ground, set the park brake, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Raise the cargo box and prop it securely before reaching in. Hot oil and the exhaust can burn you, so wear gloves.
3. 4x2: put the tray under the engine and take out the drain plug at the back of the engine. 6x4: route the drain tube down through the hole in the floor plate and open the petcock valve.
4. Unscrew the old filter (if fitted) and wipe the filter base clean.
5. Smear clean oil on the new filter's rubber seal, screw it on by hand until the seal touches, then a further half turn.
6. Refit the 4x2 drain plug, or close the 6x4 petcock and pull the hose back out of the floor plate.
7. Fill through the dipstick tube (4x2) or the oil filler (6x4). Do not overfill: Deere's capacities are for a dry engine, so add most of it, then top up to the dipstick.
8. Check the level: on the 4x2 rest the dipstick cap on the tube neck without screwing it in; on the 6x4 push the dipstick fully home. Keep the level between the marks.
9. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it and recheck the level. Lower the cargo box and take the old oil to a disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (3 L), Oil filter wrench, Spanner for the 4x2 drain plug, Funnel, Gloves, Rags

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and wait for everything to stop turning. Fingers and clothing get caught in the clutches.
2. Raise and prop the cargo box. On the 6x4 remove the belt shield.
3. Turn the belt by hand and look for cracks, glazing or missing chunks. Measure the width across the top: replace it below 27 mm.
4. To fit a new belt, roll the old one off the driven clutch pulley, then off the drive pulley. Fit the new one with the arrow on its smooth side pointing to the front of the vehicle, over the drive pulley first, then the driven clutch.
5. Check the driven clutch buttons (wear pads). If any are missing or worn to metal, have your dealer replace them.
6. Every 200 hours: mark the primary clutch cover against the clutch, remove the three screws and cover, blow the clutch out with compressed air, wipe the cover and refit it on the marks. Never oil or grease any part of the primary clutch.
7. Refit the 6x4 belt shield and lower the cargo box.

Tools: Steel rule or vernier, Spanners for the belt shield (6x4), Marker pen, Compressed air

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Front king pins: one or two shots of grease into the fitting on each king pin bushing.
3. Axle couplers: one fitting each side of the transaxle. Wipe off excess grease at the transaxle end, because grease on the belt makes it slip. Keep the rubber sleeve (later models) close to the transaxle.
4. 6x4 chains: lubricate the whole chain on each side. Use a dry lube in dusty conditions.
5. 6x4 chain tension: put it in neutral, diff lock off, park brake off, then lift all four rear wheels and support the machine on stands. Never rely on the jack alone.
6. Turn the rear wheels towards each other so the sag is at the top, lay a straight edge across the sprockets and measure: sag should be 13–25 mm.
7. To adjust, slacken the four axle housing nuts each side, turn the adjusting bolts equally both sides, tighten the housing nuts to 90 N·m, then back the adjusting bolts off half a turn. Turn the wheels and recheck in three places for tight spots.

Tools: Grease gun, Jack and axle stands or wooden blocks, Straight edge and rule, Torque wrench (90 N·m)

1. Park safely, stop the engine, take the key out and let the engine cool.
2. Raise and prop the cargo box.
3. Release the latches and take off the canister cover. Lift out the element and fit a new one.
4. Refit the cover with the rubber dust unloading valve pointing down, following the arrow moulded on the cover, and hook the latches.
5. Check the rubber dust valve and replace it if it is split or missing. Never run the engine without the element and valve fitted.
6. Tip the passenger seat forward and check the air intake tube is clear.

Tools: Rag

1. Let the engine cool: the cylinder and exhaust burn. Take the key out and raise the cargo box.
2. Pull off the plug lead(s) and unscrew the plug(s).
3. Replace any plug with cracked porcelain or pitted or worn electrodes. Otherwise clean it gently with a wire brush.
4. Set the gap for your model (see the parts list) and screw the plug in by hand first.
5. Tighten to 20 N·m (15 lb-ft), refit the leads and lower the cargo box.

Tools: Plug socket, Feeler gauge, Wire brush, Torque wrench (20 N·m)

1. Work outdoors with the engine stopped and cold. Petrol vapour is explosive: no smoking, flames or sparks.
2. Raise and prop the cargo box. The filter is at the front of the engine compartment.
3. Slide the hose clips back, put a rag under the filter and pull the hoses off.
4. Fit the new filter with its arrow pointing in the direction of fuel flow, towards the engine.
5. Push the hoses on, refit the clips and wipe up any spilt fuel at once.

Tools: Pliers for the hose clips, Rag or small tray

1. Tighten the wheel bolts evenly in the star pattern until snug, then to 90 N·m (65 lb-ft).
2. Have your John Deere dealer check and adjust the valve clearance.
3. While you are there, look for damaged or loose hardware and tighten it.

Tools: Torque wrench (90 N·m)

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine, take the key out and raise and prop the cargo box.
2. Reach the drain plug through the slot under the machine. Take it out and let the oil drain. Check the O-ring.
3. Refit and tighten the drain plug.
4. Clean round the dipstick on top of the transaxle before taking it out, so dirt cannot fall in.
5. Pour in about 4.5 L of HY-GARD through the dipstick hole.
6. Check the level with the engine off and the oil cold: screw the dipstick fully in, unscrew it and read it. Wait two minutes, check again and top up if needed.
7. Refit the dipstick and lower the cargo box.

Tools: Drain tray (6 L), Spanner for the drain plug, Funnel, Rags

1. Only work on a cold engine. Hot coolant under pressure can burst out and scald you. Turn the cap slowly to the first stop to let pressure out before removing it.
2. Remove the seats, the diff-lock and gear lever knobs and the seat base panel.
3. Undo the radiator fixings, lift it slightly and remove the radiator drain plug (or pull off the bottom hose if the plug is seized). Open the engine block drain screws on the right of the engine.
4. Flush with clean water and John Deere cooling system cleaner: fill, run to temperature, stop, and drain straight away while the dirt is still stirred up.
5. Close the drains, refit the radiator and seat panel. Remove the bleed screw and its special aluminium washer near the carburettor; do not lose or swap the washer.
6. Fill the radiator until coolant runs from the cap hole, fit the cap, then add coolant at the bleed port until it runs out and half-tighten the bleed screw. Half-fill the reservoir, with the hose end just above the bottom.
7. Remove the radiator cap, run the engine at medium speed for 10–15 minutes until both hoses are warm, top up until no bubbles show at the bleed port, then tighten the bleed screw and fit the cap.
8. When cold, top the reservoir to 25–50 mm of coolant. Coolant is poisonous to animals: collect it and dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Screwdriver and spanners, Funnel, Gloves