John Deere Gator XUV835 service schedule

1. Park safely. Roll the machine until the grease nipple on the rear driveshaft coupler lines up with the slot in the cover.
2. Give the nipple one or two shots of grease.
3. Grease the striker slots on both sides of the cargo box.
4. Check the driveline CV boots for splits.

Tools: Grease gun

1. Run the engine briefly to warm the oil, then park on level ground in Park, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Raise the cargo box and fit the support so it cannot drop on you.
3. Put the tray under the engine drain plug and the filter drain hole in the frame. Take out the oil filler cap.
4. Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain fully. Hot oil burns: wear gloves.
5. Unscrew the old filter and wipe the thread on the engine.
6. Oil the rubber seal of the new filter, screw it on until the seal touches, then a further half turn by hand.
7. Refit the drain plug at 40 N·m.
8. Fill with oil but no higher than the upper dipstick mark. Do not overfill.
9. Start and idle the engine, check for leaks, stop it and recheck the level. Lower the cargo box.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Filter wrench, Socket set, Torque wrench (40 N·m), Funnel, Gloves

1. Work outdoors, engine cold, no smoking or flames. Petrol vapour can ignite.
2. The fuel system is under pressure on EFI engines. If you are not sure how to relieve it, have your John Deere dealer do this job.
3. Fit the new filter with the flow arrow the same way as the old one, check for leaks with the key on, and wipe up any spills.

Tools: Container for petrol, Rags, Gloves

1. Park safely, stop the engine and let it cool.
2. Pull out the latch and turn the canister cover anticlockwise to remove it.
3. Throw the old element away and fit a new one. Do not blow it out with an air line.
4. Refit the cover, turn it clockwise to lock, with the rubber dust valve pointing down. Push the latch in.
5. Squeeze the dust unloading valve to clear it and replace it if split.
6. Check the intake hoses and clamps for cracks and tighten as needed.

Tools: Rag

1. Let the engine cool. Hot parts burn. Raise and secure the cargo box.
2. Pull off the plug leads one at a time and unscrew each plug.
3. Set the gap on the new plugs to 0.95 mm.
4. Screw each plug in by hand, then tighten to 25 N·m. Refit the leads and lower the box.

Tools: Spark plug socket, Feeler gauge, Torque wrench (25 N·m)

1. Park safely, stop the engine and take the key out. Moving clutch parts can trap fingers.
2. Raise and secure the cargo box.
3. Look through the clutch enclosure exhaust port and measure the top width of the belt. Under 29 mm, replace it.
4. Clear any debris from the exhaust port.

Tools: Vernier or ruler, Torch

1. Park on firm level ground, chock the wheels, raise each corner safely on stands.
2. Remove the wheel and look at the pad friction material. Less than 1 mm, or damaged: have the dealer replace the pads.
3. Refit the wheel and tighten steel wheel nuts to 108 N·m.

Tools: Jack and axle stands, Wheel brace, Torque wrench (108 N·m), Torch

1. Run the vehicle to warm the front differential oil, then park safely and raise and secure the cargo box.
2. Transmission: clean round the dipstick, remove the drain plug, drain, check the washer, refit at 30–35 N·m.
3. Add Hy-Gard through the dipstick hole, wait two minutes and check the level by resting the dipstick on the threads. Add to the notches.
4. Front differential: remove the fill plug (left side) and the drain plug (bottom right), drain through the skid plate hole, refit the drain plug at 30–35 N·m.
5. Fill until level with the bottom of the fill hole and refit the fill plug at 44–54 N·m. Recheck after a few hours of use.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (30–54 N·m), Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Park safely, take the key out, raise the rear safely on stands and remove the left rear wheel so the suspension hangs freely.
2. Remove the side panel and intake hose (7 screws, 5 push clips), the upper shock bolt and the 11 clutch cover bolts.
3. Loosen the drive clutch bolt, lift the belt until loose and roll it off the driven clutch.
4. Spin the idler bearing: if it is rough, see your dealer.
5. Fit the new belt with the arrows pointing to the front of the machine. Loop it over the drive clutch and roll it onto the driven clutch.
6. Tighten the drive clutch bolt to 67.8 N·m, refit the cover, refit the shock at 140 N·m, refit the panel and wheel.

Tools: Jack and axle stands, Socket set, Torque wrench (68–140 N·m)

1. John Deere lists this as a dealer job.
2. Between services, check the reservoir level every 50 hours. A falling level means worn pads or a leak.
3. Brake fluid strips paint; wipe spills at once. Use fluid from a sealed container.

Tools: Brake bleeding kit

1. Only work on a cold engine. Never open the radiator cap hot.
2. Remove the cap on the bleed/fill fitting, disconnect the lower radiator hose on the left side and drain into a tray.
3. Raise the right side of the machine safely to drain fully, then lower it and refit the hose.
4. Loosen the bleed screw, fill the radiator until coolant runs from the bleed port, tighten the screw, then fill until coolant runs into the recovery tank.
5. Fill the recovery tank about half full. Do not use plain water or stop-leak additives.
6. Coolant is poisonous to animals; dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Jack, Funnel

1. Have your John Deere dealer inspect the timing belt and idler bearing.
2. Tell them if the machine works in very dusty, wet or muddy conditions, which brings the check forward to 400 hours.

Tools: Dealer job