Kawasaki KVF360 Prairie 360 service schedule

1. Engine off, key out. Remove the seat, pull up the snaps and take off the air cleaner cover.
2. Pull the element to the rear and lift it out. Push a clean lint-free towel into the inlet tract so no dirt can fall in, and wipe out the air box with a damp cloth.
3. Look inside the inlet tract and carburettor for dirt; if there is any, have the intake cleaned.
4. Remove the stopper from the back of the element and pull the foam off the inner metal net.
5. Wash the foam in high-flash-point solvent with a soft brush, never petrol. Squeeze it dry in a towel; do not wring or blow it dry.
6. Soak it in foam air filter oil, wrap it in a clean rag and squeeze out as much as possible without tearing it.
7. Refit it on the net with the stopper, coat the lips with a thick layer of grease, grease the air box joints, take the towel out of the inlet and refit the element, cover and seat.
8. Release the clamps and empty the drain tubes under the air cleaner housing of any dust or water.

Tools: High-flash-point solvent and a tray, Soft brush, Clean lint-free towels, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Keep hands clear of the fan: Kawasaki warns it can start by itself even with the ignition off.
2. Clean the screen and the cooler fins with a gentle stream of water.
3. Do not use a pressure washer; it bends the fins.
4. If mud or insects will not come out, have a Kawasaki dealer clean it. Do not fit accessories that block air flow through the cooler.

Tools: Hose with low-pressure water, Soft brush

1. Park level, engine off, key out.
2. Turn the steering and look all round each joint boot for cuts, splits or grease leaks.
3. Have any split boot replaced before mud gets into the joint.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. Park level, engine off, key out.
2. With the reservoir level, check the front brake fluid is above the lower line. Top up only with the same type and brand, to the stepped upper line inside.
3. Have the pads checked; they must be replaced when the lining is down to 1 mm.
4. Check the brake light comes on after about 10 mm of pedal travel.
5. Check the rear brake pedal and lever free play and brake drag as the handbook describes, and check hoses for leaks.

Tools: Torch, Rule, Rag

1. Clean off rust and old grease first.
2. Oil the brake lever, brake cable joint, brake pedal and differential control lever pivots.
3. Grease the upper end of the throttle inner cable.
4. Lubricate the rear brake inner cable and the throttle inner cable with a pressure cable luber, then adjust the cables.

Tools: Oil can, Grease, Pressure cable luber, Rust remover and rags

1. Warm the engine thoroughly, then stop it on level ground and take the key out. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
2. Put the tray under the engine, take out the drain plug and let the oil drain fully with the quad level.
3. Unscrew the filter cartridge with a filter wrench. Put a thin film of oil on the new cartridge's seal and tighten it to 17.6 N·m.
4. Refit the drain plug with its gasket at 20 N·m (new gasket if the old one is damaged).
5. Fill to the H (High) line on the dipstick with about 1.74 L of oil, run the engine for a few minutes, stop it and recheck the level.
6. If the oil pressure/temperature light stays on just above idle, stop the engine at once and find the cause.
7. Take the old oil to a proper disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (3 L), Oil filter wrench (Kawasaki 57001-1249 or similar), Socket set, Torque wrench (17.6–20 N·m), Funnel, Gloves

1. Let the engine cool and take the key out. Pull the plug cap off carefully and unscrew the plug.
2. Clean an oily or carbon-fouled plug with a wire brush or high-flash-point solvent.
3. Check the gap with a wire feeler gauge: 0.8–0.9 mm. Bend only the outer electrode to adjust.
4. Replace the plug if the electrodes are worn or corroded or the insulator is cracked.
5. Fit it at 14 N·m and press the cap on firmly.

Tools: Plug spanner, Wire-type feeler gauge, Wire brush, Torque wrench (14 N·m)

1. Kawasaki says this is a dealer job. Check only with the engine cold.
2. Clearances: inlet 0.08–0.13 mm, exhaust 0.15–0.20 mm.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Service manual

1. Have a Kawasaki dealer check the belt for wear and deflection and test the belt failure detection system.
2. Between services, watch for slipping: a smell of burning rubber, white smoke, sluggish pull, or high revs for the speed. Stop using the quad until it is fixed.
3. Use low range for hill climbs, heavy loads, towing and slow work to make the belt last.

Tools: Dealer job

1. Have a Kawasaki dealer replace the plates inside the rear final gear case.
2. Refill the rear case with the correct tractor hydraulic fluid afterwards.

Tools: Dealer job

1. Ride the quad first so the oil is warm and carries the sediment out. Park level front to back and side to side, engine off, key out.
2. Put a tray under each case and remove each filler cap and drain plug.
3. When fully drained, refit the drain plugs with good gaskets: front 20 N·m, rear 24 N·m.
4. Fill the front case with engine oil (about 430 ml) and the rear case with the specified tractor hydraulic fluid (about 900 ml), each to the bottom thread of its filler opening.
5. Refit the filler caps and wipe up any spilt oil at once; oil on the tyres makes them slippery.

Tools: Two drain trays, Socket set, Torque wrench (20–24 N·m), Oil pump or squeeze bottle, Rags

1. Have a Kawasaki dealer change the fluid.
2. Every 2 years have the master cylinder piston and dust seal and the caliper seals replaced; every 4 years have the brake hose replaced.

Tools: Dealer job

1. Work outside away from anything that can burn. Wear gloves: the silencer gets hot and Kawasaki says the engine must run for this job.
2. Take out the drain plug from the silencer and follow the handbook to purge the arrester.
3. Refit the drain plug securely.

Tools: Spanner for the silencer drain plug, Gloves