Kawasaki Mule 3010 / 4010 service schedule

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Clean filters in a well-ventilated place with no sparks or flames nearby.
2. Petrol: take out the element and separate the foam from the paper. Wash the foam in high flash-point solvent, then dry it by shaking or with compressed air. Do not wash, oil or blow the paper element with compressed air: replace it if dirty.
3. Diesel: unlock the clamps, remove the cover and element and tap the element gently with a screwdriver handle to clear dust. Replace it if very dirty or damaged. Refit the cover with the TOP mark upwards.
4. Converter air cleaner (both): clean the element the same way as the petrol foam and refit it.
5. Petrol: drain the intake chamber of water at the same time.
6. After working in rain or mud, clean the elements straight away.

Tools: Bowl of high flash-point solvent (not petrol), Screwdriver, Gloves

1. Run the engine to warm the oil, park on level ground, set the parking brake and stop the engine. Take the key out. Only run engines outdoors: exhaust gas kills.
2. Tilt up the cargo bed and make sure it is held up before reaching underneath.
3. Put the tray under the engine and remove the drain plug. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
4. Unscrew the filter (from under the vehicle on the diesel), with a cloth round it to catch spills.
5. Oil the new filter's gasket. Screw it on until the gasket touches, then a further 3/4 turn (petrol) or 1 turn (diesel).
6. Refit the drain plug with a good gasket: petrol 22 N·m (M14 plug) or 25 N·m (M16 plug); diesel 34 N·m.
7. Fill with 10W-40 to between the F and L marks on the dipstick: about 1.8 L petrol or 3.3 L diesel.
8. Diesel: do not overfill. Kawasaki warns that oil above the full mark can damage the engine.
9. Warm the engine, check for leaks and recheck the level. Take the old oil to a disposal point.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Oil filter wrench (Kawasaki 57001-1249 on petrol), Torque wrench, Funnel, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, wheels chocked.
2. Check the fluid is between the upper and lower lines in the reservoir. Brake fluid strips paint, so wipe spills at once.
3. Check pedal play is 2–10 mm and the parking brake holds at 8–12 clicks.
4. Check the hoses and pipes for cracks, rubbing and leaks.
5. Brake wear (shoes and drums) needs the drums off: shoes are replaced below 1.0 mm lining.
6. Every 2 years have the fluid changed and the brakes bled; Kawasaki tightens the bleed valves to 5.4 N·m on the diesel.

Tools: Spanner for bleed valves, Clear bleed tube and jar, Torque wrench

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and let the converter cool.
2. Remove the converter cover and measure the belt width. Petrol: replace below 28.8 mm (new 30.3 mm). Diesel: replace below 32.6 mm (new 34.1 mm).
3. Look for cracks, breaks or peeling. Whenever the belt is replaced, check the drive and driven pulleys too.
4. Diesel: check belt deflection is 28–36 mm; adjusting it needs the service manual.
5. Undo the clamp and pull the drain hose off the bottom of the converter housing to let out dust or water, then refit it.
6. Have the dealer check the driven pulley wear shoes every 500 hours.

Tools: Vernier or steel rule, Screwdriver for the converter drain hose clamp

1. Only work on a cold engine, key out.
2. Petrol: remove each plug, clean it, set the gap to 0.7–0.8 mm and refit. Replace any plug with a cracked insulator or worn electrodes.
3. Valve clearance is checked cold: petrol 0.25 mm, diesel 0.20 mm. Locknuts 9.8 N·m petrol, 11 N·m diesel.
4. If you do not have the service manual and gauges, have your dealer do the valves.

Tools: Plug spanner, Feeler gauges, Service manual

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Grease the points shown in the service manual's General Lubrication section.
3. Turn the steering lock to lock and check every steering and drive shaft boot for splits. A split boot lets mud in and the joint soon fails.
4. Check the wheel nuts are at 137 N·m.

Tools: Grease gun, Torch

1. Drive the vehicle to warm the oil, then park on level ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Transmission: remove the drain plug and let it drain. Refit it with a good gasket at 15 N·m.
3. Fill with about 2.5 L of hypoid gear oil and check it is between the H and L lines on the dipstick.
4. Front gear case: remove the filler cap and drain plug and drain it. Refit the drain plug with a new aluminium gasket at 20 N·m.
5. Fill to the bottom of the filler opening (about 0.4 L) with limited-slip hypoid oil. Ordinary gear oil can make the front diff chatter or slip. Refit the filler cap (29 N·m on the petrol manual).
6. Look at the old oil: milky oil means water has got in.

Tools: Drain tray (4 L), Torque wrench (15–29 N·m), Funnel, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Stop the engine, let it cool and tilt up the cargo bed. No smoking or naked flames near fuel.
2. Petrol: fit the new filter in the fuel line the right way round for fuel flow and secure the clips.
3. Diesel water drain: open the drain at the bottom of the filter and let water out until clean diesel runs, then close it.
4. Diesel element: screw the new cartridge on by hand until the gasket touches the housing, then 1/3 turn more. Fit the drain cap with a new O-ring.
5. Diesel bleeding: loosen the air vent plug on top of the filter (10 mm), press the priming pump button until fuel runs out free of bubbles, then tighten the plug.
6. Wipe up any spilt fuel and check for leaks with the engine running.

Tools: Rag or small tray, 10 mm spanner (diesel air vent plug), Filter strap (diesel)

1. Only work on a cold engine. Never open the radiator cap hot: coolant can spray out and scald.
2. Remove the radiator cap in two steps: turn to the first stop, then push and turn to remove.
3. Open the drain plugs and drain the coolant into a tray. Refit the plugs (diesel coolant drain plug 25 N·m).
4. Diesel: raise the front wheels 20–30 cm so the radiator cap is the highest point, then fill slowly to bleed out air.
5. Fill with a 50/50 mix of permanent antifreeze and soft water, fill the reservoir to the F mark (not above) and run the engine to purge air, then top up when cold.
6. Petrol: check the coolant filter. If it looks dark or dirty, replace it and check the rest of the system.
7. Clean mud off the radiator with low-pressure water or air. Coolant is poisonous to animals: dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray (6 L), Funnel, Gloves, Soft brush