Kawasaki Mule SX / Mule 600 / 610 service schedule

1. Warm the engine thoroughly, stop it and park level.
2. Place the flexible funnel and tray under the drain bolt on the right of the engine, remove the bolt and gasket and let it drain.
3. Remove the old filter cartridge. Oil the new one's gasket and tighten it to 5.8 N·m.
4. Fit a new drain bolt gasket and tighten the drain bolt to 20 N·m.
5. Fill to the H line on the dipstick (about 1.3 L), run for a few minutes, stop and recheck. Check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (2 L), Flexible funnel or card chute, Torque wrench, Oil filter wrench

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and look for leaks.
2. Check brake pedal free play is 2–5 mm.
3. The 2-year fluid change and seal and wheel cylinder renewal are dealer jobs.

Tools: Rule, Brake bleeding kit

1. Raise the seat. Release the snaps and remove the air cleaner housing cover.
2. Push a clean lint-free towel into the intake so dirt cannot fall in, then lift out the element.
3. Clean the element as your handbook describes, or fit a new one if it is torn or clogged.
4. For the converter cleaner: lift and prop the cargo bed, raise the seat, loosen the clamps, remove the guard plate and take the element out to clean it.
5. Remove the towels and refit everything so it seals.

Tools: Screwdriver, Clean lint-free towel, Compressed air or solvent as your handbook says

1. Raise the seat and pull off the plug cap.
2. Remove the plug, clean off carbon with a non-metal brush and set the gap to 0.7–0.8 mm. Replace it if the insulator is cracked.
3. Refit at 22 N·m and push the cap on firmly.

Tools: Plug spanner from the tool kit, Wire feeler gauge, Torque wrench

1. Have a Kawasaki dealer check the clearances cold: inlet and exhaust 0.10–0.15 mm.

Tools: Dealer job

1. Every 500 hours, drain any dust or water from the converter case as your handbook shows.
2. Have a Kawasaki dealer inspect the belt and the driven pulley shoe.

Tools: Dealer job for the belt and shoe

1. Have your dealer lubricate the chassis points, or follow the lubrication list in your handbook.

Tools: Grease gun, Oil can

1. With the exhaust cold, remove the muffler drain bolts.
2. Run the engine briefly with the throttle blipped to blow out carbon, then stop it.
3. Refit the drain bolts at 9.8 N·m.

Tools: Spanner, Torque wrench

1. Warm the oils with a run, park level and apply the parking brake. Oil on tyres is dangerous: keep it off them.
2. Transmission: lift and prop the cargo bed, remove the filler plug and drain bolt, drain, fit a new gasket and tighten the drain bolt to 15 N·m. Fill to the H line on the dipstick.
3. Front final gear (4x4): remove the filler cap and drain bolt, drain, fit a new gasket and tighten the drain bolt to 20 N·m.
4. Fill the front case to the bottom of the filler opening, fit a new greased O-ring on the cap and tighten it to 29 N·m.

Tools: Drain tray, Torque wrench, Syringe

1. Work outdoors with the engine cold and no flames near.
2. Clamp or drain the fuel line, swap the filter with its arrow pointing to the carburettor and refit the clips.
3. Check for leaks before running.

Tools: Hose clip pliers, Rags, Container