Kubota L4240 service schedule

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never run the engine without the element.
2. Remove the cover and primary element. Leave the secondary element alone unless replacing it.
3. Dry dust: blow out from the inside with air under 205 kPa (30 psi), turning the element.
4. Oily or sooty: soak 15 minutes in detergent, rinse well in clean water and let it dry naturally.
5. Check it with a torch inside for damage. Never oil this dry element.
6. Refit the cover with the arrow pointing up so the evacuator valve works.

Tools: Compressed air (under 205 kPa / 30 psi), Torch, Mild detergent, Dust mask

1. Do this somewhere clean, not out in the field. Stop the engine, take the key out and keep flames away.
2. Close the fuel tap.
3. Unscrew the ring, take off the filter bowl and rinse it out with kerosene.
4. Take out the element and rinse it in kerosene.
5. Reassemble with the O-ring and spring in place, keeping dirt out.
6. Open the fuel tap and bleed the fuel system as shown under Service As Required.

Tools: Clean tray, Kerosene (paraffin), Rags

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Press the fan belt halfway between the pulleys with your thumb: it should move 7–9 mm. To adjust, loosen the alternator bolts, lever the alternator out and retighten.
3. Clutch (where fitted): lightly press the pedal and measure free travel at the top: 20–30 mm. Adjust the rod length at the clevis, then tighten the lock nut and fit a new split pin.
4. Brakes: release the parking brake, lightly press each pedal and measure free travel: 15–20 mm, the same both sides. Adjust with the turnbuckle and tighten the lock nut.
5. Check the fuel lines and clamps while you are there; bleed the system if a line is removed.

Tools: Spanners, Rule, Lever bar, Wheel chocks

1. Only work on a cold engine; hot coolant scalds.
2. Tighten any loose clamps. Replace hoses that are swollen, hard or cracked.
3. Check the intake air hoses, HST oil lines and power steering hoses for damage and tightness.

Tools: Screwdriver, Torch

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the engine cool enough that the oil cannot burn you. It drains best while still warm.
3. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the engine and drain fully. Refit the plug.
4. Remove the old filter, smear clean oil on the new filter's rubber seal, and screw it on until it touches, then a further half turn by hand only.
5. Fill to the upper notch on the dipstick (about 8.2 L).
6. Run the engine briefly, check for leaks at the filter, stop it and top up to the upper notch.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner for drain plug, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the oil cool enough that it cannot burn you.
3. The handbook's steps drain the transmission case first; if you do, refit the drain plugs afterwards.
4. Remove the HST filter, oil the new filter's seal with clean transmission oil, screw it on until it touches, then one more turn with the filter wrench.
5. Fill to the upper notch on the dipstick with Super UDT.
6. Run the engine a few minutes, stop it, recheck the level and check for leaks at the filter.

Tools: Drain tray, Filter wrench, Rags

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Work the hydraulic levers with the engine off to release trapped pressure.
3. Let the oil cool enough that it cannot burn you, then remove the drain plugs at the bottom of the transmission case and drain fully. Refit the plugs.
4. Remove the hydraulic filter (and the HST filter on HST models). Oil the new seals and screw each on until it touches, then a further half turn by hand.
5. Fill with Super UDT to the upper notch on the dipstick (about 43 L).
6. Do not drive off straight away: run the engine at medium speed for a few minutes, stop, recheck and top up. Check for leaks.

Tools: Large drain tray (50 L), Spanners for drain plugs, Filter wrench, Funnel or pump

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and keep flames away. Close the fuel tap.
2. Unscrew the ring and take off the bowl. Rinse the bowl in kerosene.
3. Fit the new element with the spring and O-ring.
4. Refit the bowl, open the tap and bleed the fuel system.

Tools: Clean tray, Kerosene (paraffin), Rags

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the left and right drain plugs and the filler plug, and drain fully. Refit the drain plugs.
3. Pour new oil in slowly. If it overflows early, wait a couple of minutes and carry on.
4. Refit the filler plug, drive a few minutes to spread the oil, then remove the level check plug.
5. If no oil comes out, add more through the filler until it does. Refit both plugs.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners for plugs, Funnel

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Loosen the lock nut.
3. Tighten the adjusting screw all the way, then back it off 1/6 of a turn.
4. Retighten the lock nut.

Tools: Spanners, Screwdriver

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and let it cool. Never take the radiator cap off hot: turn it to the first stop, let pressure out, then remove it.
2. Open the radiator drain plug and take off the cap. When drained, close the plug.
3. Fill with soft water and cooling system cleaner and use it as the cleaner says.
4. Drain again, then fill with 50/50 antifreeze and soft water to just below the cap. Fit the cap tightly.
5. Fill the recovery tank to FULL. On cab models, set the heater to WARM.
6. Run the engine a few minutes, stop, let it cool and top up the recovery tank.
7. Dispose of the old coolant properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Antifreeze tester