Kubota M7060 service schedule

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never run the engine without the element.
2. Take out the primary element. Leave the secondary element alone unless it is being replaced.
3. Blow dry dust out from the inside with low-pressure compressed air, turning the element.
4. Check it with a torch inside for splits; replace it if damaged.
5. Refit the element and cover, and squeeze the rubber evacuator valve to clear dust.

Tools: Compressed air with low-pressure nozzle, Torch, Dust mask

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Keep hands clear of the fan.
2. Press the belt firmly with your thumb (about 10 kg) halfway between the pulleys. It should move 11–12 mm.
3. To adjust, loosen the tension pulley nut and lock nut and turn the tension bolt until the deflection is right.
4. Tighten the nuts and recheck the deflection.

Tools: Spanners, Rule

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Lightly press each brake pedal and measure the free travel at the top of the stroke: 7–14 mm, the same both sides.
3. Each pedal's full stroke should be under 100 mm, and the two pedals should be within 5 mm of each other when pressed together.
4. If any reading is out, have a Kubota dealer adjust the brakes.

Tools: Rule, Wheel chocks

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Let the engine cool enough that the oil cannot burn you. It drains best while still warm.
3. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the engine and drain fully. Refit the plug.
4. Remove the oil filter. Smear clean oil on the new filter's rubber seal.
5. Screw the new filter on until the seal touches, then a further half turn by hand only.
6. Fill with CJ-4 oil to the upper notch on the dipstick (about 12 L).
7. Run the engine for a few minutes, stop it, check for leaks and top up to the upper notch.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Socket for drain plug, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine, take the key out, chock the wheels and keep naked flames away.
2. Remove the fuel filter and catch the fuel in a container.
3. Smear clean diesel on the new filter's rubber seal.
4. Screw it on until the seal touches, then a further half turn by hand only.
5. Bleed the fuel system as shown under Service As Required in the handbook.

Tools: Filter wrench, Container for fuel, Rags

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Work the hydraulic levers with the engine off to release trapped pressure.
3. Let the oil cool enough that it cannot burn you.
4. Remove the drain plug at the bottom of the transmission case and drain into a tray. Refit the plug.
5. Remove both oil filters. Wipe metal filings off the magnetic filter with a clean rag.
6. Oil the rubber seals of the new filters and screw each on until it touches, then a further half turn by hand only.
7. Fill with Super UDT2 to the upper notch on the dipstick.
8. Run the engine for a few minutes, stop it, recheck the level and check the filters for leaks.

Tools: Large drain tray (60 L), Spanner for drain plug, Filter wrench, Clean rag, Oil pump

1. Only work on a cold engine; hot coolant scalds.
2. Check the radiator hoses for swelling, hardness or cracks and the clamps for tightness.
3. Check the fuel lines and intake air hoses the same way.
4. If a fuel line is removed, bleed the fuel system afterwards.

Tools: Screwdriver, Torch

1. Park, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the front wheel hub cover.
3. Apply bearing grease and refit the cover.

Tools: Grease gun, Screwdriver or spanner for hub cover

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Loosen the lock nut on the pivot adjusting screw.
3. Screw the adjusting screw in until it seats, then set it as your handbook says (the copy we read gives 1/6 of a turn).
4. Tighten the lock nut. Check the lift cylinder hoses for damage while you are there.

Tools: Spanners

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the primary element, then the secondary element, taking care no dust falls into the intake.
3. Wipe the housing clean with a damp rag.
4. Fit the new secondary then the new primary element and refit the cover.

Tools: Torch, Clean damp rag, Dust mask

1. Book the tractor in with a Kubota dealer for valve clearance adjustment and the exhaust manifold check.

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Work the hydraulic levers with the engine off to release trapped pressure.
3. Let the oil cool enough that it cannot burn you, then drain through the plug at the bottom of the transmission case. Refit the plug.
4. Change both filters and wipe the magnetic filter clean, as in the 500-hour job.
5. Fill with Super UDT2 to the upper notch on the dipstick (about 56 L).
6. Do not drive off straight away: run the engine at medium speed for a few minutes, stop, recheck and top up.

Tools: Large drain tray (60 L), Spanner for drain plug, Filter wrench, Oil pump

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the drain and filler plugs on both front axle gear cases and drain into a tray. Refit the drain plugs.
3. Remove the level check plug on the front differential case.
4. Pour the right amount into both gear case filler ports.
5. Keep filling until oil reaches the lower edge of the differential check plug hole, then refit the filler and check plugs.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners for plugs, Funnel or oil pump

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the cover and take out the element.
3. Wipe oil and carbon out of the case with a clean rag.
4. Fit the new element and tighten the cover.

Tools: Spanners or sockets, Clean rag

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and let it cool. Never take the radiator cap off hot: turn it to the first stop, let pressure out, then remove it.
2. Open the radiator drain plug and take off the cap so it all drains. Close the plug.
3. Fill with clean soft water and cooling system cleaner and use it as the cleaner says.
4. Drain again, then fill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and soft water to just below the cap. Fit the cap tightly.
5. Fill the recovery tank to FULL. On cab models, set the heater to WARM.
6. Run the engine a few minutes, stop it, let it cool, and top up the recovery tank.
7. Dispose of the old coolant properly; it is poisonous to animals.

Tools: Drain tray, Phillips screwdriver (drain plug), Funnel, Antifreeze tester