Kuhn FC 313 RF service schedule

1. Put the machine in transport position, disengage the PTO, stop the engine, take the key out and wait for all parts to stop.
2. Check each knife. Replace it if cracked, bent, shorter than 65 mm, narrower than 34 mm measured 10 mm from the disc, or with less than 9 mm left beside the hole. Never straighten a bent knife.
3. Replace the bolt if it is bent, its locking compound is worn, its head is worn to the centre line, its shoulder is under 15 mm, or it has been removed 5 times.
4. Replace the nut if its washer has lost its spring or come loose, it has worn 5 mm, or it has been removed 5 times.
5. To change a knife: clean the nut case, wedge a piece of wood between two discs, undo the nut with the box spanner and take the bolt out through the front of the disc guard.
6. Turn the knife over or fit a new one with its arrow matching the disc rotation. Change both knives on a disc together.
7. Tighten the lock-nut to 12 daNm (120 Nm).

Tools: 18 mm box spanner (supplied), Torque wrench (to 120 Nm), Wooden wedge, Rule, Gloves

1. Set the cutterbar level both ways.
2. Remove the two filler plugs and their seals.
3. The oil should be 6–7 mm deep through the filler openings. Top up if low.
4. Refit the plugs with clean seals, renewing any that are damaged.
5. A hot case alone is not a fault if the discs turn freely by hand when hot.

Tools: Spirit level, Small rule, Spanners

1. Stop the PTO and engine, take the key out and wait for all parts to stop.
2. Belts: the tension is right when washer (3) touches tube (4). If not, slacken the counter nut, turn the nut until they touch and lock the counter nut.
3. Oil the roller drive chain through the opening and check its tension.
4. Measure the minimum roller gap: it should be 2–3 mm. If not, reset the stops each side and lock them with Loctite 243.
5. Check the rollers for damage and wrapped crop.

Tools: Spanners, Feeler gauges or rule, Oil can

1. Run the cutterbar for a few minutes to warm the oil, then stop, take the key out and wait for everything to stop.
2. Put it in transport position and fasten the safety chains to the highest tractor attachment point.
3. Lower it onto two wedges of different heights so the side away from the drain plug is higher.
4. Take off the inner skid shoe on the drive side.
5. Remove the filler plug and washer, then the drain plug and washer, and let it drain until it stops dripping.
6. Clean the drain plug and washer (renew if worn) and refit them.
7. Fill with 2.25 L through the filler, then refit the filler plug and the skid shoe.
8. Check the level with the bar flat (see the level check task).

Tools: Drain tray (3 L or more), Two wedges of different heights, Spanners, Funnel

1. Run the machine a few minutes to warm the oil, then stop it, take the key out and wait.
2. Side gearbox: remove the dipstick plug and the drain plug, drain, clean and refit the drain plug, and fill 0.7 L. The level should be between the MAX mark and the end of the dipstick.
3. Central gearbox: remove the filler and drain plugs, drain, refit the drain plug, fill 2.5 L and check the level.
4. Dispose of the old oil properly.

Tools: Drain tray (1.5 L or more for the side box), Spanners, Funnel

1. Stop the tractor, take the key out and wait for all parts to stop.
2. Uncouple the intermediate PTO shaft from the central gearbox.
3. Check the friction clutch slips and is not locked up. If it is, free it as your handbook shows.
4. Grease the PTO shafts with NLGI 2 grease and refit.

Tools: Spanners, Grease gun

1. Clean the machine thoroughly.
2. Drain and refill all gearboxes and the cutterbar (see those tasks).
3. Touch up paint.
4. Inspect the knives and bolts and replace worn ones.
5. Slacken the V-belts and check their condition.
6. Relieve pressure in all hydraulic functions and grease the exposed ram rods.
7. Store under cover, somewhere dry.
8. Before next season, check the slip clutch and retension the belts.

Tools: Pressure washer, Grease gun, Touch-up paint