Leyland 272 service schedule

1. Lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Steering crank-arm and pivot pin (2 nipples): one stroke each.
3. Front axle (3 nipples): jack up the front to take the weight off, then grease.
4. Two strokes each: front hubs (1 per hub), radius rods (1), handbrake cross-shaft (2), hydraulic power unit cross-shaft, right-hand lift rod adjuster and control quadrant (4).
5. One stroke: hydraulic lift assistor cylinder lower end (1, if fitted) and easy-connect lower links (4, if fitted).
6. Also top up the transmission, check the power steering reservoir and the belt pulley oil level.

Tools: Grease gun, Jack (for front axle), Rags

1. Run the engine to working temperature, park level, lower implements, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. On 4WD tractors open the flap on the left of the propeller shaft guard (or remove the guard) and use a chute to carry the oil clear.
3. Remove the sump plug and let the warm oil drain. Wear gloves; it burns. Clean the plug, check its washer and refit it.
4. Unscrew the filter centre bolt and take off the bowl. Throw away the old element.
5. Clean the bowl with solvent and dry it. Fit a new seal to the filter head and a new element, then refit the bowl.
6. Refill with the correct grade and quantity. Run the engine briefly, check for leaks at the filter and plug, stop it, wait a few minutes and top up to the MAX mark.

Tools: Drain tray (12 L), Spanner for sump plug, Spanner for the filter centre bolt, Parts cleaner, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Valve chest filter: remove the screw, washer and cover plate, pull the ring from its groove, draw out the end plate with a bolt in the tapped hole, and remove the spring, element and seal.
3. Fit the new element, making sure the element seal and the O-ring on the end plate are serviceable, and reassemble.
4. By-pass filter (every 400 hours): remove the central bolt and bowl, discard the element, clean the bowl, fit a new element and gasket and refit.
5. Run the engine, work the hydraulics and check the oil level and for leaks.

Tools: Spanners, Bolt to draw the end plate, Solvent, Rags

1. Check the brake and clutch reservoirs and top up to the maximum mark with clean new fluid. Make sure the breather hole in each cap is clear.
2. Check each brake and clutch pedal has 6–12 mm free travel before the push-rod meets the master cylinder; adjust the return stop screws if needed. Bleed if a pedal is spongy.
3. Main clutch lever: unhook the return spring, turn the adjuster until the lever free movement just disappears, then back it off 14 flats of the hexagon without letting the push-rod turn, lock it and refit the spring. Lever free movement should be about 2.5 mm.
4. IPTO clutch hand lever: free travel should be 35 mm from fully forward; adjust the rod length at the fork ends if needed.
5. Handbrake: it needs adjusting if travel is more than four notches. With the rear wheels raised and supported, turn each adjusting nut until the brake just holds, then back off one turn (6 flats).
6. Every 400 hours also inspect the brake pipes and connections.

Tools: Spanners, Rule, Jack, axle stands and chocks

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. The clearance can be checked hot or cold.
2. Remove the breather pipe from the rocker cover, then the cover.
3. Check each valve with a 0.35 mm (0.013 in) feeler, following the sequence in the manual (No. 1 valve is checked with No. 8 valve fully open, and so on). The feeler should be a sliding fit.
4. To adjust, slacken the locknut and turn the screw clockwise to close or anti-clockwise to open the gap. Hold the screw and retighten the locknut.
5. Refit the rocker cover and breather pipe.

Tools: Feeler gauge 0.35 mm (0.013 in), Ring spanner, Screwdriver, Means of turning the engine

1. Turn the fuel off at the tank.
2. Remove the centre bolt and lift off the pump cover. Take out the sealing ring and filter gauze.
3. Wash the gauze in clean fuel or blow it clean, and clean the pump chamber.
4. Refit with a good sealing ring, turn the fuel on and bleed the fuel filter.

Tools: Screwdriver or spanner, Clean fuel, Rags

1. Clean around the injectors first; no dirt must get into the bores.
2. Disconnect the leak-off pipe and the injector pipes, and cap the open ends.
3. Remove the securing bolts, withdraw the injectors and remove the sealing washers.
4. Fit clean, spray-tested injectors with new sealing washers and tighten the bolts evenly to 16.5 Nm (12 lbf ft).
5. Reconnect the pipes and bleed the injectors of air.

Tools: Spanners, Torque wrench, Blanking caps

1. Check which pump you have. This applies only to the Simms in-line pump.
2. Drain the pump oil and refill with fresh engine oil to its level. Check your handbook for the plugs.

Tools: Small drain tray, Spanners

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and keep naked flames away.
2. Remove the drain plug (if fitted) and drain the fuel. Do not crank the engine while the filter is empty; it damages the injection pump.
3. Remove the bolt and base, twist the element off the filter head and remove the old sealing rings.
4. Fit the new element with new washers and O-rings, and refit the base.
5. Bleed: slacken the leak-off banjo on top of the filter and work the lift pump priming lever until air-free fuel flows, then tighten.
6. If needed, slacken the vent screws on the injection pump hydraulic head and governor, prime until fuel flows free of air, and tighten the hydraulic head screw first, then the governor screw. Check for leaks and wipe up spilt fuel.

Tools: Spanners, Container, Rags

1. Remove the left-hand front side panel and disconnect the main fuel pipe from the fuel tap.
2. Drain the fuel tank into a clean container.
3. Remove the fuel tap assembly, which carries the pencil filter, and clean the filter.
4. Flush out the tank, refit the tap and pipe, refill and bleed the fuel system.

Tools: Large clean container, Spanners, Clean fuel

1. Stop the engine. Remove the left-hand side panel, release the fastener and securing bar, and withdraw the element.
2. Clean the inside of the housing with a damp cloth and make sure the rubber dust valve is clear and not split.
3. Fit the new element and make sure all seals are air-tight.
4. Between renewals a dry element can be tapped clean or blown from the inside at no more than 7 kgf/cm² (100 psi); an oily one can be washed in warm water with low-lather detergent and dried for at least 24 hours. Never oil it or wash it in fuel.

Tools: Damp cloth, Torch or bright light for inspection

1. Work the tractor so the oil is warm, park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove and clean the drain plugs (on 4WD also the drop box plug) and drain into containers holding at least 57.5 L (59.3 L on 4WD).
3. Remove the hydraulic power unit, take out the strainer housing, clean the strainer, housing and end plate in solvent and refit.
4. Renew the by-pass filter element (central bolt and bowl, new gasket) and the valve chest to cylinder filter element.
5. Refit the plugs. Fill through the cross-shaft filler/return plug until oil runs from the level plug, then refit the plugs.

Tools: Drain trays (60 L+), Spanners and sockets, Lifting gear for the hydraulic power unit, Solvent, Funnel or pump

1. Remove the filler/level plug, slacken the reservoir nut and rotate the reservoir to drain the oil.
2. Remove the nut and sealing washer and take off the reservoir. Unscrew the mounting stud (two nuts locked together) and discard the element.
3. Clean and dry the reservoir. Fit a new element and tighten the stud to 11–27 Nm (8–20 lbf ft).
4. Fit a new reservoir gasket, refit the reservoir with its projection in the slot, and tighten the nut to 3–4 Nm (2–3 lbf ft).
5. Start the engine, turn to full right lock and fill to the bottom of the plug hole. Turn lock to lock and recheck at full right lock until the level stays constant. Test the steering and check for leaks.

Tools: Spanners, Two nuts to lock on the stud, Torque wrench, Drain tray, Solvent

1. Park level. Hubs: turn each hub so the filler/drain plug is at its lowest point and remove both plugs to drain.
2. Centre case: put a container of at least 6 L under the drain plug, remove and clean the plug, drain, then refit it.
3. Refill the centre case through the level plug hole until oil runs out, and refit the plugs.
4. Turn each hub so the filler/drain plug is at the top, remove it and the level plug, and fill until oil runs from the level hole. Refit the plugs.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanners, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Drain the belt pulley unit and refit the drain plug.
2. Fill with new oil to the level plug and refit the plugs.

Tools: Small drain tray, Spanners

1. Pump most, but not all, of the old fluid out of each reservoir and refill with new fluid.
2. Check pedal free travel is 6–12 mm before the push-rod meets the master cylinder; adjust the return stop screw if needed.
3. Fit a tube to the slave cylinder bleed screw with its end in fluid in a clear jar and open the screw one turn.
4. Push the pedal through one full stroke then three short quick strokes and let it return. Repeat, keeping the reservoir full, until all old discoloured fluid is out, then two more strokes.
5. Tighten the bleed screw to 7 Nm (5 lbf ft) on a down stroke. Do the brakes and the clutch. Never reuse expelled fluid.

Tools: Bleed tube and clear jar, Spanner for bleed screws, Torque wrench

1. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap.
2. Remove the engine and radiator drain plugs (or open the taps) and drain.
3. Flush with clean water, then close the taps or refit the plugs.
4. Fill the radiator with coolant and top up the expansion tank to about half full. Refit both caps.
5. Run at fast idle for 30 seconds, stop the engine and top up the radiator.

Tools: Drain tray, Hose, Hydrometer