Massey Ferguson 135 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the engine to warm the oil first, then let it stand a few minutes. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
3. Remove the sump drain plug and let the oil drain completely. Refit it with a sound washer.
4. Clean around the filter head so dirt cannot fall in. Unscrew the old filter (or, on the canister type, remove the centre bolt and bowl) and throw the element away.
5. Wipe the filter head face clean and make sure the old seal has come off with the filter.
6. Smear clean oil on the new seal and screw the filter on by hand until it touches, then a further three-quarters of a turn. Do not over-tighten.
7. Refill through the filler to the FULL mark on the dipstick with oil of the right grade for the season.
8. Start the engine, check for leaks around the filter and plug, stop it and recheck the dipstick after a few minutes.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner for sump plug, Filter strap wrench, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine, take the key out, put it in gear and chock the wheels.
2. Free travel should be 3/4 in (19 mm), measured between the clutch pedal arm and the bottom of the radius rod clamp.
3. To adjust, put a rod through the hole in the clutch pedal shaft and slacken the clamp bolt.
4. Use the rod to turn the shaft clockwise until you feel resistance (the clutch fingers meeting the release bearing).
5. Move the pedal on the shaft to give 3/4 in, then tighten the clamp bolt securely.

Tools: Spanners, Steel rod to fit the pedal-shaft hole, Rule

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never take the element out with the engine running, and never run it without one.
2. Undo the knurled knob and lift out the outer element.
3. Wash the element only in water and mild detergent if the handbook allows; never in petrol, diesel or solvent. Do not oil it.
4. Let it dry fully, check it for splits with a torch inside, and replace it if damaged or if it has been washed three times.
5. Check the unloader valve at the bottom of the housing is clear.
6. Refit and tighten the knurled knob finger-tight only.
7. Note: the handbook used here describes a dry-element cleaner. Some UK-built 135s have an oil-bath cleaner; if yours does, follow your own handbook.

Tools: Clean bucket and mild detergent (if washing), Torch, Rags

1. On firm level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, chock the front wheels and raise both rear wheels clear. Support on axle stands; never work under a tractor held only by a jack.
2. Remove the adjusting-hole covers.
3. Turn each adjusting screw with a screwdriver until the wheel cannot be turned, then back it off a click at a time until the drum just stops dragging.
4. Lower the tractor. On level ground, lock the two pedals together and brake: it should stop in a straight line.
5. If it pulls to one side, lengthen or shorten the brake linkage on that side until it stops straight.
6. If the brakes are weak after the tractor has stood damp, see the handbook's procedure for burnishing the linings before adjusting, and take great care.

Tools: Jack and axle stands rated for the tractor, Wheel chocks, Screwdriver

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Keep hands away from the fan.
2. Press the belt at the middle of its longest run. It should move 1/2 to 3/4 in (13–19 mm).
3. To adjust, slacken the alternator (or dynamo) pivot and strap bolts, lever the alternator out gently by its end frame, not the body, and retighten.
4. Recheck the deflection.

Tools: Spanners, Rule, Lever bar

1. Lower the linkage to the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Wipe the rockshaft grease nipple clean.
3. Give it 1 to 3 shots of grease only. Do not over-grease.
4. Wipe off any surplus.

Tools: Grease gun, Rags

1. Stop the engine, take the key out, chock the wheels and keep naked flames well away.
2. Clean the outside of the filter case thoroughly before opening it.
3. Open the drain cock in the filter base and drain the fuel into a container.
4. Unscrew the centre bolt and remove the agglomerator bowl. Throw away the old element.
5. Wipe the bowl out with a lint-free rag.
6. Refit with a new element and new gaskets.
7. Bleed the fuel system: open the vent plug on the filter and work the hand lever on the lift pump until fuel comes out with no bubbles, then close it.
8. Do the same at the lower then the upper vent plugs on the injection pump body.
9. Give the lift pump lever 10 more strokes, then slacken one injector pipe nut, push the stop control in and crank until bubble-free fuel appears. Tighten the nut.
10. Start the engine. Do not crank for more than 30 seconds at a time; let the starter cool for a few minutes between tries.

Tools: Spanners, Lint-free rag, Container for fuel, Rags

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the rocker cover.
3. Turn the engine until the valves of the cylinder you are checking are fully closed (rocker loose).
4. Check the gap between rocker and valve stem with a feeler gauge. The handbook figure is 0.012 in inlet and 0.015 in exhaust with the engine hot; confirm the right figure for your engine (see engine notes) before adjusting.
5. If adjustment is needed, slacken the locknut, turn the adjusting screw until the feeler is a light drag, hold the screw and tighten the locknut. Recheck.
6. Repeat for every valve, then refit the cover with a sound gasket and check for oil leaks.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Ring spanner and screwdriver for adjusters, Socket set

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement fully to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Move the hydraulic control lever to lower and work any spool valves to release trapped pressure before undoing any plug.
3. Remove the transmission drain plugs and let the oil drain fully, preferably warm.
4. Clean and refit the drain plugs.
5. Fill through the filler hole on top of the transmission housing with M-1129-A to the FULL mark on the dipstick.
6. Run the engine, raise and lower the linkage a few times, lower it again, stop the engine and recheck the level.

Tools: Large drain tray (40 L), Spanners for drain plugs, Funnel or pump

1. Only work on a cold engine. Turn the radiator cap slowly to let pressure out before removing it.
2. Open the drain taps and let the coolant out into a tray. Dispose of it properly; it is poisonous to animals.
3. Flush the system through, the handbook suggests in the reverse direction to normal flow, or use a cooling system cleaner.
4. Close the taps and refill with an equal mix of antifreeze and water to 1 in (25 mm) above the core.
5. Run the engine to warm up, let it cool and top up again.
6. Clean chaff and dirt off the radiator fins while you are there.

Tools: Drain tray, Hose, Antifreeze tester