Massey Ferguson 165 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the engine to warm the oil, then let it stand a few minutes. Hot oil burns, so wear gloves.
3. Remove the drain plug in the bottom of the sump and drain the oil completely. Refit the plug with a sound washer.
4. Remove the filter element (or spin-on filter), throw it away and clean the cover or filter head thoroughly.
5. Fit the new element and seal (or oil the seal of a spin-on filter and tighten it by hand).
6. Refill to the FULL mark on the dipstick with oil of the right grade for the season.
7. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it and recheck the dipstick after a few minutes.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner for sump plug, Filter strap wrench or spanner for canister bolt, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Check the high-tension leads for fraying, corroded ends and loose, dirty or greasy connections.
3. Remove the distributor cap and look at the points for wear, pitting and burning.
4. Points that are grey and only slightly rough can be dressed with a clean, fine contact file. Never use emery cloth.
5. Set the points gap to your handbook figure (check your handbook) and refit the cap.

Tools: Screwdrivers, Fine contact file, Feeler gauges

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and let the engine cool before touching the plugs.
2. Pull the leads off one at a time so they go back on the right plug.
3. Unscrew the old plugs.
4. Set the gap on the new plugs to 0.025 in by bending only the side electrode.
5. Fit with sound gaskets on clean seats and tighten to 32–38 lb ft.
6. Refit the leads and check they are not frayed or corroded.

Tools: Plug spanner, Feeler gauge or plug gap tool, Torque wrench

1. Stop the engine, take the key out, chock the wheels and keep naked flames away.
2. Thoroughly clean the outside of both filter cases before opening them.
3. Primary filter: open the drain cock in the base to drain it, unscrew the centre bolt, remove the agglomerator bowl and throw away the element. Wipe the bowl with a lint-free rag and refit with a new element and new gaskets.
4. Secondary filter: unscrew the centre bolt on top, remove the base and element, clean the head and base, and fit the new element with new gaskets. Keep everything very clean.
5. Do not over-tighten the centre bolts.
6. Bleed the system: open the primary filter vent plug and work the lift pump hand lever until fuel comes out with no air, then close it.
7. Do the same at the lower and then the upper vent plugs on the injection pump.
8. Give the lift pump lever 10 more strokes. Slacken one injector pipe nut, push the stop knob in and crank until air-free fuel appears, then tighten the nut.
9. Do not run the starter for more than 30 seconds at a time; let it cool for a few minutes between tries. Check for fuel and air leaks.

Tools: Spanners, Lint-free rag, Container for fuel

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. If you set them hot, take care around the hot manifold and rocker cover.
2. Remove the rocker cover.
3. Turn the engine until the valves of the cylinder you are checking are fully closed.
4. Diesel AD4.203: 0.010 in hot or 0.012 in cold, inlet and exhaust. Petrol AG4.212: inlet 0.012 in, exhaust 0.015 in, hot.
5. Slacken the locknut, turn the adjuster until the feeler is a light drag, hold it and tighten the locknut. Recheck.
6. After a rebuild only: retighten the head nuts first, at working temperature, to 55–60 lb ft (diesel) or 85 lb ft (petrol).
7. Refit the cover with a sound gasket and check for oil leaks.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Ring spanner and screwdriver for adjusters, Socket set, Torque wrench (if retightening the head)

1. Only work on a cold engine. Never take the radiator cap off a hot engine; let it cool, then turn the cap slowly to let pressure out first.
2. Open the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator and let the coolant out. Dispose of it properly; it is poisonous to animals.
3. Flush the system with water in the reverse direction to normal flow.
4. Remove the thermostat housing, fit the new thermostat with a new gasket and refit the housing.
5. Check the hoses and clips; replace cracked hoses.
6. Close the drain cock and refill with equal parts antifreeze and water to 1 in (25 mm) above the core.
7. Run the engine to warm it, let it cool and top up again.

Tools: Drain tray, Hose, Spanners, Antifreeze tester

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Never run the engine without the element fitted.
2. Undo the knurled knob and holding bracket and lift out the outer element.
3. Blow it through from the inside out with compressed air.
4. To wash it, soak it for 4 hours in the MF cleaning solution at 120–150 °F (49–66 °C), agitate, then rinse inside and out with a hose until the water runs clear. Let it dry fully.
5. Replace the element if it is damaged, whatever its age.
6. Inner element: fit a new one and tighten the nut until it cannot be turned by hand.
7. Refit the outer element and tighten the knurled knob by hand. Check all intake hoses and replace any that are cracked.

Tools: Compressed air (low pressure), Bucket and MF element cleaner (1900 726 M1) if washing, Torch

1. Park on firm level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Slacken the clamp bolt in the release shaft arm.
3. Using the punch as a lever, turn the release shaft until the release bearing just touches the clutch fingers.
4. Move the release shaft arm to give 1/8 in (3 mm) clearance to the transmission housing, then tighten the clamp bolt and recheck.
5. Independent PTO tractors: put the linkage clevis in the lower hole of the clutch shaft arm, then adjust the linkage so drive stops when the pedal touches a 1 in block on the step plate. This step needs the engine running, so do it with great care and the tractor clear of people.
6. Live PTO tractors use a different procedure: check your handbook.

Tools: Spanners, Punch or bar to turn the release shaft, 1 in (25 mm) wooden block, Rule

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and any implement fully to the ground, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Move the hydraulic lever to lower and work any spool valve levers to release trapped pressure before undoing anything.
3. Let hot oil cool a little if the tractor has been working.
4. Remove the transmission and centre housing drain plugs and let the oil drain fully.
5. Clean and refit the plugs.
6. Fill at the fill point with M-1129A to the FULL mark on the dipstick.
7. Run the engine, raise and lower the linkage a few times, lower it again, stop the engine and recheck the level.

Tools: Large drain tray (40 L), Spanners for drain plugs, Funnel or pump