Massey Ferguson 4325 / 4335 / 4345 / 4355 / 4360 / 4365 / 4370 service schedule

1. Drain through the plug on the gearbox.
2. Refill through the filler on the front face.
3. Check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray

1. Wipe each nipple clean first.
2. Grease the front axle pivot pin (2 points; only four pumps on the rear bearing), the lift assistor ram top bearings (2), the adjustable lift rods (4), the telescopic stabilisers (2) and the pick-up hitch greasers (2, if fitted).
3. Two-wheel drive: also grease the front wheel hubs (2), the swivel pins (2) and the steering ram pivot pin (1).
4. Wipe off the surplus.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Change the oil when it is warm.
2. Remove the drain plug on each side of the sump and let the oil run out fully.
3. Refit and tighten both plugs.
4. Change the filter: unscrew the canister, clean the head, oil the new seal and tighten by hand only.
5. Fill to between MIN and MAX on the dipstick (MIN to MAX is about 2 L on a four-cylinder, 4 L on a six).
6. Run at 1,000 rpm for five minutes, check for leaks and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Strap wrench, Spanner for the two sump plugs, Funnel, Gloves and rags

1. Take off the right-hand side panel and top the reservoir to MAX; never let it drop below MIN.
2. If the pedal travel is long, tighten the adjuster nut one flat at a time (do not overtighten).
3. Any air in the system or any leak means the dealer must look at it straight away.

Tools: Spanner

1. Press the belt at the centre of the longest run; about 10 mm deflection (35 N). Recheck 25 hours after fitting a new belt.
2. Clean the batteries, smear the terminals with petroleum jelly and check the electrolyte.
3. Check the wheel nuts for tightness if your handbook lists them in this service.

Tools: Rag, Torque wrench

1. Clean around the filter.
2. Remove the filter body and withdraw the element.
3. Clean the head and oil the new element's seal.
4. Fit the element, screw the body on hand tight until it locks, then check the level and for leaks.

Tools: Strap wrench, Drain tray

1. Drive forward until the universal joint nipples show at the front, put the axle on full lock and stop the engine.
2. Grease the universal joints (2 points).
3. Grease the four swivel pins until clean grease shows.
4. Check the steering stops are back where they were.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean the filter assembly and drain it from the tap.
3. Hold the bowl and element, undo the central bolt and remove them.
4. Clean the head and bowl, fit new seals and a new element.
5. Remove the lift pump cover, wash the gauze strainer and pump body, and refit with a good joint.
6. Bleed the air: slacken the thermostart pipe nut or vent plug and work the priming lever until fuel runs clear.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanner, Clean rags

1. Take out the main element first.
2. Pierce the sealed handles with a screwdriver from the inside out and pull up both handles.
3. Twist slightly, withdraw the old element, fit the new one, then refit the main element and cover.

Tools: Screwdriver (to pierce the handles)

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Never open the cap hot.
2. Remove the header tank cap slowly, then open the radiator drain tap at the bottom front.
3. Remove the plug at the back right of the block; on turbo engines drain the oil cooler by taking off its hoses.
4. Flush with clean water if dirty, close everything and refill with a 50/50 mix.
5. Run for about five minutes until the thermostat opens, then recheck the level and look for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (large), 8 mm hose, Funnel

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Put the lift lever fully down.
2. Drain the oil from the three drain plugs.
3. Clean the oil strainers and the centrifugal filter rotor, nozzles and seals; renew any damaged gasket or O-ring.
4. Refit the plugs and refill through the filler to the right level.
5. Run at about 750 rpm until the pumps prime, then raise the revs and check for leaks; recheck the level once the oil settles.

Tools: Drain tray (60 L), Brush and solvent, Spanners, Torque wrench (centrifugal filter cover nut 16 Nm)

1. Release the clips, take off the end cover and pull out the main element.
2. Tap the ends on your palm (not on a hard surface) or blow from the inside out at under 7 bar, nozzle 300 mm away.
3. Look through the pleats with a light for holes; fit a new element if damaged or after 1,200 hours.
4. Wipe the inside of the casing and refit with the seal secure.

Tools: Compressed air (below 7 bar), Damp lint-free cloth

1. Put a tray under the hub; remove the drain and filler plugs.
2. Let it drain fully and refit the drain plug.
3. Fill to the level of the filler plug and refit it.
4. Repeat on the other side.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners

1. Park level. With the oil warm, remove the filler/level plug and the drain plug and drain the axle.
2. Refit the drain plug and refill to the bottom edge of the level hole.
3. Hubs: turn the wheel until the plug is lowest, drain, then turn to the three o'clock position and fill to the bottom of the hole.
4. Leave time for the oil to settle and recheck.

Tools: Drain tray, 8 mm hex key or 24 mm socket

1. Open the roof filter cover and lift out the filter.
2. Tap gently, then blow from the inside out at under 4 bar from at least 300 mm.
3. Wipe the filter chamber with a damp cloth and refit; fit a new element at the interval.

Tools: Compressed air (below 4 bar), Face mask (FFP2)

1. Book it with your dealer.
2. Clearances: inlet 0.20 mm (0.008 in), exhaust 0.45 mm (0.018 in), hot or cold.

Tools: Feeler gauges