Massey Ferguson 5465 service schedule

1. Wipe each nipple clean first.
2. Four-wheel drive: front axle swivel pins (6 nipples: two steering arm nipples each side, plus front and rear axle bearing nipples), and the drive shaft front and rear.
3. Two-wheel drive: swivel pins and steering ram pin (2 nipples), and the front and rear axle bearings. Jack the front up before greasing the axle bearings.
4. Top link (1 nipple), the pivot and coupling, and the power-shift joint.
5. Smear door hinges and locks with petroleum jelly.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Park level and stop the engine.
2. Pull the dipstick and read the level; top up through the filler with the recommended oil.

Tools: Rag

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Drain the oil when the engine is hot.
2. Remove the sump drain plug and let the oil run out fully; refit with a 35 Nm torque.
3. Unscrew the filter, fill the new one with fresh oil, oil the seal, and tighten half a turn after it touches (not more).
4. Fill to the MAX mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill: it can cause engine overspeed.
5. Crank the engine without starting it (unplug the fuel pump feed) until the oil pressure light goes out, then start, check for leaks and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Strap wrench, Spanner for the sump plug (plug torque 35 Nm), Funnel, Gloves and rags

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean around the filter and open the ring; take out the element.
3. Fit the new element and turn the ring until it locks.
4. Fill and bleed: Perkins engines with the priming pump; Sisu engines by switching the ignition on for 20 to 30 seconds. Do not run the starter over 30 seconds.
5. Start and check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray, Clean rags

1. Unscrew the filter housing on the right or left of the centre housing.
2. Take out the element, let it drain, and discard it.
3. Slide the new element into the head; leave the plastic wrapper on until it is seated, to keep dirt out.
4. Refit the housing hand tight. If you use a hydraulic-hungry implement, fill the transmission to the top mark.

Tools: Strap wrench or socket, Drain tray

1. Check the belt condition and tension (V-belt 10 mm deflection on the longest run, ribbed belt 15 mm).
2. Adjust by moving the alternator; a new belt stretches in about half an hour, so recheck it.
3. Clean the battery tops and smear the terminals with petroleum jelly.

Tools: Rag

1. Take out the cab filter, tap and blow from the inside out; wipe the chamber.
2. Blow the condenser through with air, keeping clear of the fins.
3. Fit a new cab filter at the 1,200-hour interval.

Tools: Compressed air (low pressure)

1. Take out the plugs and fit grease nipples.
2. Give two or three strokes of the gun; too much grease pushes the seal out.
3. Refit the plugs.

Tools: Grease gun

1. Park level. Turn the wheel so the hub plug is at its lowest and drain; the axle drains through the drain plug.
2. Refit the plugs; turn the wheel so the hub filler is at the horizontal and fill to the level plug.
3. Fill the axle housing to the level plug. Leave to settle and recheck.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners

1. Stop the engine and lift the left-hand side of the bonnet.
2. Take out the main element and blow it from the inside out with air at under 5 bar, holding the nozzle well back.
3. Check it against a light for holes and check the seals; wipe the housing before refitting.
4. If the warning light stays on after a clean or a new element, change the inner element as well.

Tools: Compressed air (under 5 bar), Damp cloth

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Put the lift lever fully down.
2. Remove the drain plugs and the filler plug.
3. Renew the 150-micron strainer: unscrew its housing, lightly oil the rubber seal, screw the new one up to the seal and tighten a further half turn.
4. Power Shuttle: renew or clean the 60-micron strainer; clean or renew the 250-micron wet-clutch strainer where fitted.
5. Refit the drain plugs and refill with the recommended oil.
6. Run the engine at idle until the transmission oil pressure light (about 5 bar) goes out, check for leaks, recheck the level, and bleed the brake and hydraulic-cylinder circuits (dealer if you are unsure).

Tools: Drain tray (80 L), Spanners, Torque wrench

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage and implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Never open the cap hot.
2. Drain the radiator and block, flush if dirty, and refill with the 40–50% mix.
3. Open the heater tap fully, run at 1,000 rpm for a few minutes, then recheck the expansion tank to the middle mark.

Tools: Drain tray (large), Compressed air

1. Book it with your dealer.
2. Cold clearances: inlet 0.20 mm (0.008 in), exhaust 0.45 mm (0.018 in)

Tools: Feeler gauges