Massey Ferguson 8210 / 8220 / 8240 / 8250 / 8260 / 8270 / 8280 service schedule

1. Wipe each nipple clean first.
2. Lift the tractor off the front axle before greasing the 4WD axle pivots.
3. Pump grease into each point listed until fresh grease shows, then wipe off the surplus.
4. Every 300 hours smear door hinges, locks, window catches, body hinges and cover catches with petroleum jelly, and grease the tension roller and water pump nipples.

Tools: Grease gun, Rags

1. Put a container under the filters and open the drain taps until clean fuel comes out.
2. Close the taps and work the lift pump (Perkins) or hand pump (Valmet) to refill the filter. Check for leaks.

Tools: Container, Rags

1. Open the hatch at the front of the cab roof, release the two wing nuts and lift out the element.
2. Blow it clean with compressed air and wipe out the compartment with a damp cloth.
3. Refit it. Fit a new element every 1,200 hours or once a year.

Tools: Compressed air, Damp cloth

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Drain the oil while the engine is warm: remove the sump plug on the right-hand side and let it run out fully.
3. Refit the plug and tighten it to 80 Nm (59 lbf ft).
4. Unscrew and bin the old filter. Fill the new filter half full of clean oil and smear a few drops on its sealing ring.
5. Screw the filter on until the seal just touches the head, then another half turn by hand only. Do not over-tighten.
6. Refill with approved oil to the MAX mark on the dipstick.
7. Make sure the engine will not start (disconnect the electrical stop control at the injection pump) and turn it on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. Reconnect the stop control.
8. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it and give the oil time to settle, then recheck the dipstick and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Socket for sump plug (80 Nm), Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags

1. Look for cracks. Cross-cracks are allowed; long cracks running along the belt that cross cross-cracks are not, nor are missing pieces or tearing.
2. Press the belt by hand midway between the fan pulley and the crankshaft pulley and measure the movement.
3. To adjust, slacken the alternator bolts, move the alternator, retighten securely. A new belt needs rechecking after half an hour to an hour of work.

Tools: Belt tension gauge (optional), Spanners for the alternator bolts

1. Stop the engine and swing the condenser and oil cooler aside.
2. Blow the fins clean from the engine side outwards, taking care not to bend them.
3. Swing the coolers back and check for leaks.

Tools: Compressed air, Soft brush

1. Stop the engine and put a container under the filters. Open the drain taps and let the fuel, water and sediment run out into the container, not onto the ground.
2. Remove the old elements and fit the new ones.
3. Close the taps. Unscrew the bleed bolt on the filter and work the fuel lift pump until the filters are full and fuel runs clear.
4. Perkins engines (8210/8220) bleed themselves. Valmet engines (8240 to 8280): pump with the hand pump until fuel runs from the bleed screw without bubbles, then tighten it. If it still will not start, loosen the screw on the injection pump and pump again.
5. Never run the starter for more than 30 seconds at a time. Check for leaks.

Tools: Container for fuel, Filter wrench (if canister type), Rags

1. Unscrew the 15 micron filter and bin it. Lightly oil the new filter's rubber seal, screw it on and tighten to 54 Nm.
2. On the right-hand side of the gearbox, unscrew the high-pressure filter body, pull out the element and let it drain.
3. Keep the new element's plastic wrapping on until it is in the filter head, so no dirt gets in. Slide it in, refit the body and screw it on hand-tight.
4. Idle the engine until the pressure warning light goes out, check for leaks and top up the oil.

Tools: Filter wrench, Torque wrench (54 Nm), Drain tray, Rags

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine and chock the wheels. Suspended axles must be in the low, switched-off position when checking levels.
2. Turn each wheel to bring the hub plug to its lowest point, drain, and refit.
3. Drain the axle housing from its plug.
4. Refill the axle and each final reduction so the oil is level with the plug (plug horizontal on the final reductions).
5. Check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Funnel, Rags

1. Stop the engine and lift the left-hand side panel of the bonnet.
2. Remove the main and secondary elements.
3. Blow the main element from the inside with moderate air (max 5 bar), nozzle held back from the paper. Never use exhaust gas, oil, petrol, paraffin or solvents.
4. Shine a light inside to check for holes and check the seals. Wipe out the housing with a damp cloth.
5. If the warning light comes on again very soon, the element is finished. If it still comes on after a new main element, change the inner element too.
6. Check the housing and all hoses and clips are sound and tight.

Tools: Compressed air (max 5 bar / 75 psi), Torch, Damp cloth

1. Park level and put a container under the rear left of the tank.
2. Undo the drain plug and let water and sludge out until clean fuel runs.
3. Refit the plug and tighten to 15 to 18 Nm (11 to 13 lbf ft).

Tools: Container, Spanner or socket, Rags

1. Let the engine cool. If it is hot, release the cap to the first notch and let the pressure drop before taking it off.
2. Open the radiator drain plug and the engine block drain plug under the fuel filters. Let it drain into a clean container and dispose of it properly.
3. Close the drains and refill with coolant. Open the heater valve fully.
4. Run the engine at 1,000 rpm for several minutes, then recheck and top up the expansion tank.

Tools: Drain tray (35 L), Spanner for drain plugs, Funnel, Refractometer or test strips

1. Start the engine, lower the hitch fully, then stop the engine.
2. Remove the drain plug and the filler plug. Let the oil drain fully into a large container.
3. Undo the bolts and pull out the 250 micron strainer. Clean or renew it, change the seal and refit.
4. Unscrew the cover of the 150 micron suction strainer, bin the strainer, lightly oil the new seal and screw the new one in.
5. Refit the drain plugs and fill with approved oil to the correct level.
6. Idle the engine until pressure builds and the 5 bar warning light goes out. Check for leaks and recheck the level.
7. Bleed the hydraulic and brake circuits (ask a dealer if you are unsure). The handbook recommends a transmission calibration after an oil change and at 600 hours.

Tools: Large drain tray (160 L), Socket set, Funnel or transfer pump, Rags

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the plug at the bottom of each unit and drain fully.
3. Refit the plug and fill through the level plug at the rear of the housing until oil is flush with the hole.
4. Check for leaks after a short drive.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Funnel, Rags

1. Book the tractor in with your dealer, or check the clearances cold with feeler gauges to the values above.
2. Fit a new rocker cover gasket when the cover comes off.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Socket set

1. Have a helper hold the pedal while you open each bleed screw, working through the circuit, until fluid runs without bubbles.
2. Close each screw and check the pedal feel. If unsure, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Bleed hose and clear container, Spanner

1. Clean the condenser fins with compressed air.
2. Run the system for a few minutes each week.
3. Book a dealer check each spring.

Tools: Compressed air