McConnel PA48 Mk2 / PA93 SS Super Slew / PA96 power arm hedgecutter service schedule

1. Park with the head on the ground, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Look for missing, chipped, cracked or badly worn flails and for damaged bolts or bushes.
3. Check every flail bolt and nut. The pre-work page gives 203 Nm for flail bolts and rotor bolts and 52 Nm for motor bolts and roller end cap screws. The flail head section of the PA48 and PA93 SS manuals says 135 Nm for the locknuts, so check your handbook for your head.
4. If a flail has broken off and you cannot replace it, take off the one opposite to keep the rotor balanced until you can fit a pair.
5. Grease the rotor and roller bearings and look for play or noise.

Tools: Spanners and socket set, Torque wrench (to 210 Nm), Grinder, vice and eye protection (for sharpening), Gloves

1. Park, lower the arm and flail head to the ground, switch the PTO off, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Clean around the filter housing so no dirt can fall in.
3. Place a tray under the filter, take off the housing and remove the old element. Throw it away safely.
4. Fit the new element, make sure the seal sits properly and refit the housing.
5. Start the engine, run the hydraulics for a few minutes without working and check for leaks.
6. Check the oil level at the tank sight glass and top up to the green mark.

Tools: Filter strap wrench or the right spanner, Drain tray, Clean rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and disconnect the PTO shaft.
2. Release the shield clasps with screwdrivers and slide the shield back to reach the grease nipples.
3. Give the universal joint nipples a small shot of grease at each end. Grease the shield ring nipple on each end every 100 hours.
4. Pull the shaft halves apart and smear grease on the inside shaft.
5. Slide the shield back, make sure the clasps catch, and check the shield turns freely on the shaft. Always fit the torque chains.

Tools: Grease gun, Screwdrivers (to release the shield clasps), Clean rags

1. Park on level ground with the arm folded and the head on the ground. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Look at the oil in the tank sight glass. Dark, rancid, burnt-smelling, yellow, cloudy or milky oil needs changing.
3. Clean around the filler cap and the filter housing before you open anything. Dirty oil causes most hydraulic faults.
4. Change the return line filter element (8401089).
5. If the oil needs changing, drain the tank, fit a new suction strainer (8401097) and refill through clean containers with the ISO VG 46 oil to between the minimum and maximum marks.
6. Run the machine for a few minutes without working. The level will drop as the circuit fills, so top up.
7. After a change of oil, fit a fresh return filter element again after 12 hours of work.

Tools: Large drain container, Clean containers and funnel for refilling, Spanners, Clean rags, Gloves

1. Park with the arm folded and the head on the ground. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Put a tray under the gearbox and take out the drain plug at the base. Let all the oil run out.
3. Refit the drain plug and tighten it.
4. Take out the filler plug and the level plug, then fill through the filler until oil starts to run out of the level plug hole.
5. Refit both plugs and tighten them. Wipe off spilt oil.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanner or socket for the plugs, Funnel or oil pump, Clean rags

1. Check the tightness of all nuts and bolts, including the head attachment bolts, bearing housings and hydraulic mounting bolts.
2. Check the PTO gearbox oil level at the level plug.
3. On telescopic arms, check the arm pads for wear.
4. Wipe the cooler matrix clean (daily in dusty work) and look for oil leaks and chafed hoses.

Tools: Spanner set, Torque wrench, Clean rags

1. Wipe all dirt from around the breather on the top of the tank.
2. Unscrew the old breather and fit the new one.
3. Check that the tank cap and breather are tight and clean.

Tools: Spanner, Clean rags

1. Park, lower everything to the ground and stop the engine. Flex the hose by hand with the nut slackened to release trapped pressure.
2. Look for chafing, cuts, bulges, kinks and weeping connections.
3. When refitting soft-seal nuts, tighten to 1/4" 24 Nm, 3/8" 33 Nm, 1/2" 44 Nm, 5/8" 58 Nm, 3/4" 84 Nm, 1" 115 Nm.
4. Bonded-seal unions: 1/4" 34 Nm, 3/8" 75 Nm, 1/2" 102 Nm, 5/8" 122 Nm, 3/4" 183 Nm, 1" 203 Nm.
5. Never use jointing compound. Use a second spanner on the union to avoid breaking both seals.

Tools: Spanner set, Torque wrench, Clean rags

1. Wash the head and arms and let them dry. Check flails, bolts and hoses.
2. Grease every grease point fully.
3. Smear a light coat of grease on the exposed ram rods. Wipe it off before the rams are next moved.
4. Fold the arm to the transport position and put the machine where it is dry.
5. Cover the control assembly with a tarpaulin or canvas. Do not use a fertiliser bag, which can cause quick corrosion.

Tools: Grease gun, Tarpaulin or canvas, Wire brush and rags