New Holland Boomer 45 / 50 / 55 service schedule

1. Transmission oil: engine off and tractor level. The dipstick must read between the two marks. Top up through the dipstick hole only.
2. Front axle: take out the fill plug and check plug on each side. Oil must be level with the check plug. Top up with 80W-90 only to that level.
3. Clutch pedal free play should be 20–30 mm. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster (tighter reduces play), then retighten the lock nut and check the clutch fully disengages.
4. Brake pedal free play should be 50–60 mm and the same on both pedals. Adjust if it is more.
5. HST: with your foot off the pedals the tractor must stop and the rear wheels must not turn. If they turn, adjust the HST linkage.
6. Belts: 98 N (about 10 kg) midway between the pulleys should deflect the fan/alternator belt 10–15 mm. The air conditioner belt should deflect about 10 mm. Renew any cracked or frayed belt.
7. Tyres: check pressures against the chart in your handbook and look for sidewall damage or cuts.
8. Wheel nuts: tighten to 176–196 N·m. The handbook asks for this after the first 5 hours, the first 50 hours and every 300 hours.

Tools: Torque wrench, Tape measure, Tyre gauge, Spanners for the lock nuts

1. Wipe each grease fitting clean before and after greasing.
2. Pump fresh grease in until clean grease pushes out the old.
3. Wipe off the surplus. Use the grease point pictures in your handbook for the full list.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Put a container under the fuel water separator.
2. Disconnect the water-in-fuel sensor plug and loosen the sensor nut.
3. Let the water drain until only clean fuel comes out, then tighten the nut and reconnect the plug.
4. Bleed the fuel system as your handbook shows.

Tools: Small container, Rags

1. Run the engine to warm it, then stop it, take the key out and chock the wheels. Do not work under the tractor on jack stands alone.
2. Put the tray under the sump. Take out the two drain plugs, one on each side of the oil pan, and let the oil run out. Refit both plugs.
3. Put the tray under the oil filter and unscrew the filter. Throw away the old oil and filter safely.
4. Wipe a thin film of clean oil over the new filter's rubber seal. Screw it on until the seal touches, then turn it about three-quarters of a turn by hand. Do not overtighten.
5. Fill through the filler cap with the specified oil. Start the engine, check the filter and plugs for leaks, then stop it.
6. After a few minutes check the dipstick. The level must sit between the L and H marks.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner or socket for the drain plugs, Oil filter strap wrench, Funnel

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine and let the oil cool below 49 °C before handling it.
2. Unscrew the old hydraulic filter on the right-hand side under the operator's platform and throw it away safely.
3. HST tractors only: unscrew the HST filter on the left-hand side the same way.
4. Coat each new filter's seal with clean oil. Screw it on until the seal touches, then about three-quarters of a turn more by hand.
5. Start the engine, check both filters for leaks, then stop it and check the transmission dipstick. Top up if needed.

Tools: Filter strap wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Stop the engine. Release the end cap, then pull out the primary element.
2. Wipe loose dirt out of the canister and look at the canister end for anything that could stop the new element sealing.
3. Every 50 hours: blow from the inside outwards with air at 2 bar or less, keeping the nozzle away from the paper. Check the inner seal. Look through the element with a torch: replace it if you see holes or a loose end plate.
4. Every 300 hours, or if damaged, fit a new element. Push it in until it seats.
5. Refit the end cap and turn it clockwise until it locks. Never tap the element on a hard surface.

Tools: Low-pressure compressed air (2 bar / 30 psi at most), Clean rag, Torch

1. Stop the engine and switch off the blower.
2. Open the filter cover on each side and take out the old filter. Do not climb on the tractor: use steps or a ladder if you cannot reach.
3. Wipe the housing with a damp cloth. Fit the new filters the right way round and close the covers.

Tools: Screwdriver, Damp cloth

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and keep naked flames away. Unplug the water-in-fuel sensor wiring.
2. Put a container under the filter. Remove the sensor and let the fuel drain.
3. Turn the housing anticlockwise to take the filter assembly off its flange. Unscrew the canister bottom and take out the old filter.
4. Fit the new filter, the new gasket and the new O-ring. Smear a little clean diesel on the gasket first.
5. Refit the sensor and plug. Bleed the fuel system with the bleed screw only. Never loosen the high pressure injector lines.

Tools: Drain container, Rags, Strap wrench if needed

1. Run the tractor to warm the oil, then park level, stop the engine and put a DO NOT OPERATE tag on the controls.
2. Put the tray under the transmission and rear axle drain plugs. Tractors without a mid PTO have one plug position and tractors with a mid PTO have another: check your handbook picture.
3. Take out the drain plugs, let the oil run out, then refit them.
4. Fit new hydraulic (and HST) filters as in the filter task.
5. Fill through the dipstick hole with 10W-30 hydraulic transmission oil until the oil reads between the two marks on the dipstick. Do not go above the full mark.
6. Refit the dipstick, run the engine briefly, then recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (45 L), Spanner for the drain plugs, Filter strap wrench, Clean funnel

1. Put a tray under the plugs. With the oil warm, take out the drain plugs and let it all run out. Refit the drain plugs.
2. Take out the filler plug and the check plugs. Fill with 80W-90 until oil flows out of the level check port. Refit the plugs hand tight only.
3. Jack the front axle until both wheels are off the ground. Tilt the axle to its stops, then briefly take the plug from the lower final drive housing to let trapped air out. Refit the plug.
4. Tilt the axle the other way and repeat for the other final drive housing.
5. Lower the axle and recheck the level at the check port. Top up if needed, then tighten all plugs.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners for the plugs, Oil pump or filler bottle, Axle stands

1. Remove the primary element, then pull the inner element out of the canister body.
2. Wipe any dirt out of the canister. Check the seal on the new element.
3. Push the new element in until it sits fully, then refit the primary element and end cap.

Tools: Rag, Torch

1. Let the engine cool. Turn the radiator cap to its first notch to release pressure, then remove it.
2. Open the drain valve on the left of the radiator and the drain plug on the left of the engine block. Collect the coolant.
3. Run clean water through the filler neck. Start the engine when water flows from the block drain. Stop it when the water runs clear.
4. Let all the water drain, close the radiator drain valve and refit the block plug.
5. Refill slowly with the 50/50 mix until the level is about 4 cm below the bottom of the filler neck. Do not overfill.
6. Clean the cap and its seal, refit it and check the recovery tank level between LOW and HIGH.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Hose, Funnel