New Holland T4.75F / T4.85F / T4.95F / T4.105F service schedule

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Wipe each nipple clean, then pump in grease. Rear wheel hubs: one nipple each side. Keep pumping until fresh grease comes out of the guard, which shows the chamber is full. Turn the wheel as you pump so it fills evenly.
3. Grease the lift and linkage fittings and the steering cylinder nipples (2WD cylinder, or the 4WD cylinders).
4. On 4WD tractors also grease the front axle pivot, the transmission shaft and the front PTO coupling where fitted, and the 2WD pivot and stub axles on 2WD tractors.
5. Wipe off surplus grease. In very dusty or boggy work repeat the hub greasing more often to push out dirt and water.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Stop the engine and let it cool.
2. Blow the dust out of the transmission oil cooler, air-conditioning condenser (if fitted) and intercooler from the clean side outwards, with low-pressure air.
3. Do not use a hard jet or poke anything into the fins; bent fins stop the airflow.

Tools: Compressed air at low pressure, Soft brush

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the cover and pull out the outer cartridge. Never take out or clean the inner safety cartridge while you do this.
3. Clean the outer cartridge as your handbook shows and wipe the inside of the housing.
4. Check the cartridge for splits or damage and fit a new one if it is damaged.
5. Refit the cartridge and cover.

Tools: Compressed air at low pressure or a soft brush, Clean damp cloth

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean round the filter housing. Unscrew the container and replace the filter inside it, oiling the container seals first.
3. Screw the container back by hand, about 3/4 turn after it touches.
4. On Power Shuttle or Dual Command tractors, change the oil filter on the right-hand side: oil the seal, screw it on and tighten by hand 3/4 turn.
5. Top up the transmission oil with new oil only, run the engine, then check the level on the dipstick and look for leaks.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rag

1. Park on level ground. With the engine off and the lift arms down, check the transmission dipstick reads at the upper mark; top up through the dipstick hole if not.
2. Remove the front axle housing level plug. Oil should run out of the hole. If it does not, add oil through the hole until it starts to escape.
3. Check each final drive as your handbook shows and top up. Refit the plugs.

Tools: Spanner, Squeeze bottle or oil pump

1. Warm the engine, park level, stop it and take the key out.
2. Put the tray under the sump. Remove the two drain plugs (one each side) and let the oil drain, then refit them.
3. Unscrew the filter and let it drain, then throw it away properly. Clean the filter seat.
4. Oil the new filter's seal lightly, screw it on until it touches, then tighten by hand a further 3/4 turn (one full turn at most).
5. Fill through the filler cap with fresh oil.
6. Run at idle for at least 3 minutes, stop, then check the dipstick reads between MIN and MAX and top up. Check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (12 L), Spanners for the two sump plugs, Filter wrench, Funnel, Gloves

1. Clean round the filters first. Put a container under the filter.
2. Remove the retaining pin and disconnect the water sensor. Unscrew the drain plug at the base and drain the fuel, then take off the cartridge.
3. Lightly oil the new seal, screw the cartridge on until it touches the support and tighten by hand 3/4 turn (the handbook says 15 N·m). Refit the sensor and its pin.
4. Change the pre-filter in the same way, as your handbook shows.
5. Bleed the system: press the two retaining buttons (one is behind the union) and pull the pipe off the filter head, pump the primer lever until the fuel has no bubbles, then push the pipe back on until it locks.
6. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Container, Filter wrench, Clean rag

1. Switch the blower off and remove the grille on each side.
2. Take out the cartridges, wipe their seats with a damp cloth and fit the new ones. Replace the active carbon filters too.
3. Remove the recirculated-air cartridges, clean them in their housings and refit. Refit the grilles.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Take out the outer cartridge, then the inner one, and cover the air outlet with a clean cloth while you wipe the housing.
3. Fit the new inner cartridge, then the new outer cartridge, and close the housing.

Tools: Clean damp cloth

1. Warm the oil by working the hydraulics, park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine and chock the wheels. Let very hot oil cool a little.
2. Drain the transmission housing through the two plug holes. Drain the lift torsion bar (drive gear) housing through its plug. On 4WD tractors drain the 4WD drive gear housing through its plug.
3. Refit the plugs and change the transmission oil filter before refilling.
4. Fill through the dipstick hole with new oil, run the engine, work the hydraulics, then check the dipstick level and look for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray (50 L), Spanners, Filter wrench, Funnel

1. Park level and set the parking brake.
2. Axle housing: drain the oil through the drain screw into a container, then refill through the filler plug.
3. Final drives: turn each hub so the plug is at its lowest point and drain, then turn the plug hole to horizontal and fill until oil just starts to run out of the hole.
4. Refit the plugs and wipe up any spills.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Squeeze bottle or oil pump

1. Book the tractor in with your dealer or an engine specialist.
2. Ask them to check the valve clearance and reset it if needed.

Tools: Dealer or engine specialist

1. Book the tractor in with your dealer.
2. Never look for fuel leaks with your hand: high-pressure diesel can go through skin.

Tools: Dealer or injection specialist