New Holland T6080 / T6090 service schedule

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Oil all pivots. Grease the lift arms (left and right), both lift rods and the top link.
3. Standard 4WD axle: front and rear pivot pins. SuperSteer axle: front and rear pivot pins and the lower swivel bearing. Suspended axle: front pivot pin, upper and lower suspension pivots, Panhard rod pivot and the suspension arm nipple at the back of the arm.
4. All 4WD axles: steering cylinders and track rod ends, and the hub steering and swivel bearings (both sides). Suspended and SuperSteer axles: the drive shaft universal joint (reach it through the hole in the guard if the guard covers it). A tractor with a steering angle sensor has a sealed bearing at the top right swivel with no nipple.
5. Rear axle shaft bearings (both sides); the rear hitch (automatic, elevator, swivel or K80 ball type), or the roller drawbar; and the front linkage, whichever you have. For the integrated front linkage, lift the bonnet and take off the two rubber covers to reach the nipples, and refit the covers afterwards.
6. Wipe off surplus grease.

Tools: Grease gun, Oil can, Rag

1. Stop the engine and keep people clear: debris will fly out.
2. Release the clip on the A/C condenser (it sits in front of the intercooler and transmission cooler), swing it out and release the spring clip so the intercooler and oil cooler lift on their handle.
3. Blow or wash from the back of each block towards the front. Clean the radiator first, then the A/C condenser, then the transmission oil cooler. A front PTO tractor has a small extra oil cooler.
4. If the coolers are oily, use a wash solution and a pressure washer. Gently straighten bent fins. Lower the coolers and refit the clips.

Tools: Compressed air or pressure washer (max. 7 bar / 100 psi), Goggles and protective clothing, Wide fin comb or small pliers

1. Switch the blower off and close the windows and one door. Slam the other door to shake loose dust from the outer filters (not in damp weather, when the dust sticks).
2. Outer filters: undo the clamp screw at the front of the housing, let it drop and pull out the element. The foam pre-filter can be blown out or washed (let it dry fully). Blow out the main element from the top side with air at least 300 mm away. Never wash the main element.
3. Inner filter: undo the captive screws on the console behind the seat, lift the filter out and blow it out from the clean side.
4. Wipe the housings and refit with the clean side up.

Tools: Compressed air (max. 2 bar / 30 psi), Damp lint-free cloth

1. Check all wheel nuts with a torque wrench. Fixed-track and adjustable front wheels: disc to hub 210 N·m, disc to rim 250 N·m.
2. Rear wheels on the standard axle: disc to hub 260 N·m, disc to rim 250 N·m. Adjustable rear axle and 10-hole rims have higher figures (up to 500 N·m): check your handbook.
3. Check pressures to suit the tractor's weight and look for cuts or bulges on the tread and sidewalls. If the tyres are water-ballasted with calcium chloride, use a gauge made for it.

Tools: Torque wrench, Tyre pressure gauge

1. Look along the whole poly-V belt for fraying, cracks, cuts and wear. If in doubt, fit a new one. Check that it sits properly in the pulleys and that the automatic tensioner works.
2. Park level, with all remote rams retracted, and leave the engine off for at least 5 minutes. Check the oil level in the sight glass on the left of the rear axle housing: between the two marks and no higher than the upper mark (2) for normal work.
3. Front PTO gearbox, where fitted: take out the level plug and check the oil wets the bottom of the hole.
4. Check the parking brake works (adjustment is a dealer job on tractors with the electronic parking lock).

Tools: Rag

1. Warm the engine, park level, stop it and take the key out. Take care with hot oil; let very hot oil cool to warm.
2. Remove the two drain plugs at the rear of the sump (one each side), drain the oil and refit them.
3. Clean round the filter, unscrew it and throw it away. Clean the face, oil the new seal, screw on until it touches, then a further 3/4 to 1 turn. Do not overtighten.
4. Fill through the filler with the dipstick. Do not go above MAX.
5. Run at idle for 3 minutes, stop, check for leaks, wait 5 minutes and check the level between MIN and MAX.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Spanners for two drain plugs, Filter wrench, Funnel, Gloves

1. Lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. The filters are under the right-hand side of the cab floor.
2. Clean the mounting plate and filter. Unscrew the inlet (throwaway) filter and dispose of it properly.
3. Clean the inlet port and sealing face. Wet the new seal with fresh oil and screw the filter on until the faces just touch, then a further 3/4 turn. Do not overtighten.
4. Start the engine, work the hydraulics, check for leaks and check the sight glass.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rag

1. Stop the engine and take the key out. Undo the three clips on the filter housing (rear left, under the bonnet) and take off the cover.
2. Turn the outer element's end slightly clockwise to free the seal and pull it straight out without disturbing the inner element. Check its inside for dust.
3. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp, lint-free cloth. Make sure the inner element is seated, then fit a new outer element.
4. Fit the cover. Also check the clamps on the hoses between the air cleaner, turbo, intercooler and inlet manifold, and the exhaust connections. Do not overtighten.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth on a rod, Screwdriver for clamps

1. Clean the area first: dirt in a common-rail system does serious damage.
2. Open the drain on the primary filter (move the sensor cable if needed), drain the fuel into a container and unscrew the filter.
3. Fit the new filter on the cover with a little engine oil on the seal; screw on until the seal touches, then a further 3/4 turn (about 15 N·m). Smear the drain valve contact face, turn it until it touches the filter and then a quarter turn more.
4. Change the secondary filter the same way.
5. Prime the fuel system as the handbook shows (Operation 39) before starting, then check for leaks.

Tools: Container, Filter wrench, Clean rag

1. Stop the engine. Look at the quick-release couplings on the inlet and return lines under and behind the radiator.
2. Check the two further couplings on the cooler lines beside the engine block.
3. Make sure they are fully seated and show no oil leaks.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. Park level and stop the engine.
2. Remove the axle level/filler plug: oil should reach the bottom of the hole. Top up if needed.
3. Turn each wheel so the hub plug is at 3 o'clock, remove it, check the oil reaches the bottom of the hole and top up until it runs out. Refit the plug.

Tools: Spanner, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Switch the blower off.
2. Outer filters: undo the clamp screw at the front of the housing, lower the housing and pull out the element. Wipe the housing and fit the new foam and main filters with the arrow pointing up.
3. Inner filter: undo the captive screws on the console behind the seat, take off the cover, remove the element and wipe the box. Fit the new one with the arrow pointing towards the rear of the tractor.
4. Handle the rubber seal edges carefully.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Run the engine and work the hydraulics until the oil is warm. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine, set the parking brake and chock both sides.
2. Let very hot oil cool to warm. Remove both drain plugs (one under the transmission, one under the rear axle) with a hex key so the reservoir empties completely, then refit them.
3. Change the filters before refilling. Clean under the cab floor on the right. Unscrew the inlet (throwaway) filter. For the main cartridge, remove the three 19 mm bolts of the guard plate, loosen the bleed valve fully so air lets the oil run back, wait, remove the 19 mm plug to drain the housing, then turn the holder plate about 45° left with a 41 mm spanner and lift it off with the cartridge.
4. Fit the new cartridge to a clean plate with a lightly oiled seal. The plate must click in with its lug lined up with the arrow on the housing.
5. Refill through the filler. Run the engine, work the hydraulics and extend all cylinders fully. Stop, wait 5 minutes, check for leaks and fill to between the sight glass marks (not above the upper mark for normal work).

Tools: Drain tray (90 L), Hex key for the drain plugs, 41 mm ring spanner or socket, 19 mm spanner, Filter wrench, Pump

1. Park level and set the parking brake.
2. Differential: drain it, refit the plug and fill until oil reaches the bottom of the level hole.
3. Hubs: put the wheel with the plug at the bottom, drain, then bring the plug to 3 o'clock and fill to the bottom of the level hole; repeat on the other hub.
4. Front PTO gearbox: drain it by the drain plugs, refit them, and fill at the level plug until oil wets the bottom of the hole.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump

1. Lift the steps on the battery box and lock them up with the pin. When lowering, replace the pin.
2. Release the battery cover and lift it off.
3. Unscrew the six caps. The electrolyte must cover the tops of the plates. Top up with distilled water only, and do not overfill.
4. Clean the terminals and smear them lightly with petroleum jelly.

Tools: Torch, Funnel

1. Let the engine cool. Set the heater to maximum heat. With a thick cloth, turn the expansion tank cap and radiator cap slowly to the first stop and let pressure out.
2. Take the lower hose off the radiator and drain into a container. Also drain the block through the drain plug on the right-hand side. The hose clamps have a cap over the screw head: lever it off with pliers to loosen.
3. Flush with a radiator cleaner as its instructions say. Refit the hose, fill with clean water, run for 10 minutes, then drain again.
4. Refill slowly with 50% antifreeze and 50% soft water to the bottom of the filler neck, then fill the expansion tank to the cold mark. Run to temperature, let cool and top up. Run the heater and blower to check for air locks.

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Hose, Antifreeze tester, Thick cloth, Pliers

1. Open the housing from the right side of the engine: three clips, cover off, outer element out.
2. Pull the inner element straight out and cover the outlet with a clean cloth. Wipe the inside of the housing.
3. Fit a new inner element and a new (or good) outer element. Check both are seated before you fit the cover.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Work on a cold engine. Take the key out.
2. Remove the breather tube and the rocker cover.
3. Set inlet to 0.25 mm (0.009 in) and exhaust to 0.51 mm (0.020 in), cold, using the dealer's method for turning the crankshaft.
4. Fit a new gasket and tighten the cover nuts to 25 N·m.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners, Socket set, Dealer's crankshaft turning tool

1. With the engine cold, take the breather pipe off the rocker cover, undo the cover nuts and remove the cover.
2. Turn the elbow a quarter turn to release it, undo the knurled screw and release the filter unit. Remove the three regulator screws and lift off the regulator with its filter.
3. Clean the rocker cover well. Fit the new regulator and filter assembly and tighten the regulator screws to 5 N·m.
4. Refit the cover with a new gasket and tighten its nuts to 25 N·m.

Tools: Spanners, Torque wrench

1. Clean round the dryer. Release the air pressure by opening the drain valve on the air tank in front of the rear axle.
2. Take off the guard and unscrew the cartridge.
3. Clean the flange. Smear the new cartridge seal and thread lightly with grease, screw on until it touches, then tighten by hand a further half turn. Do not overtighten.
4. Build up the pressure and check for leaks.

Tools: Filter wrench, Rag

1. Book it with a dealer or A/C specialist: refrigerant must not be released into the air and can cause frostbite.
2. Never open the system or put heat near it yourself.

Tools: Dealer with A/C equipment