New Holland T7.220, T7.235, T7.250, T7.260, T7.270 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Coolant: with the engine cold, check the level in the recovery tank is above the bottom line. Top up with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and clean soft water.
3. Engine oil: wait at least five minutes after stopping, then check the dipstick (left-hand side) is between the two notches. The gap between the notches is about 4.0 litres.
4. Fuel: if the water symbol shows on the display, open the drain on the water separator until only clean diesel runs, then close it.
5. Top up the windscreen washer reservoir (under the back of the cab, left-hand side).

Tools: Rag, Container for fuel water

1. Stop the engine and let it cool. Wear eye protection and keep bystanders clear.
2. Release the air conditioner condenser catches and swing it out, then release the spring clip and lift the intercooler and oil cooler using the grab handle until they lock up.
3. Blow or wash each core from the back to the front: radiator first, then the condenser, then the driveline oil cooler. Straighten any bent fins gently.
4. Check the SCR cover air ducts for chaff too.
5. Lower the coolers carefully (do not trap the oil cooler pipes), refit the clip and close the condenser.

Tools: Compressed air or low-pressure washer (7 bar maximum), Eye protection

1. Switch the blower off. Close the roof hatch, all windows and one door, then slam the other door to knock loose dirt off the filters.
2. Undo the thumbscrew at the front of each outside filter housing, let it drop and lift out the filter.
3. Blow out the foam pre-filter with low-pressure air or wash it, and make sure it is fully dry before it goes back. Blow the main element dust-side to clean-side from at least 300 mm away. Do not wash the main element.
4. Take out the inside filter by undoing its retaining screws and blow it out the same way.
5. Wipe the filter chambers with a damp lint-free cloth and refit the filters with the clean side uppermost.

Tools: Compressed air (2 bar maximum), Lint-free cloth

1. Wipe each nipple clean first.
2. Grease both lift arms, both lift rods (not the right-hand rod if it is the hydraulic type) and the top link.
3. 2WD axle: outer steering parts and front hubs (both sides), plus the centre steering parts.
4. 4WD axle: front and rear trunnion pins; on Supersteer also the lower swivel bearing; on suspended axles also the upper and lower damper pivots, the Panhard rod pivot and the suspension arm (under the tractor in front of the transmission).
5. 4WD steering cylinders, track rods and hub swivel bearings (the right-hand upper swivel is sealed on tractors with a steering angle sensor, so it has no nipple).
6. Rear tow hitch (whichever type is fitted), heavy-duty roller drawbar if fitted, and both rear axle shaft bearings.
7. The front hitch and the pick-up hitch slide strips are low-maintenance: check them for wear instead.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Check torque on each nut with a torque wrench. Two wheel drive: front disc to hub bolts 210 Nm.
2. Four wheel drive, adjustable front wheels: disc to hub nuts 210 Nm, disc to rim nuts 250 Nm.
3. Rear flanged axle: disc to hub nuts 260 Nm, disc to rim nuts 250 Nm. Bar axle with 10-bolt hub: split wedge bolts 300 Nm, disc to hub nuts 500 Nm, disc to rim nuts 250 Nm.
4. Check tyre pressures for the load (the handbook sends you to its tyre pressure tables in Section 3) and look over the tread and sidewalls.

Tools: Torque wrench (up to 500 Nm), Tyre gauge (calcium-chloride type if the tyres are ballasted with it)

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Inspect the belt along its whole length for chafing, cracks, cuts and general wear. If in doubt, fit a new one.
3. Check it sits properly in the pulleys and that the tensioner moves freely.

Tools: Rag

1. Park on level ground and stop the engine.
2. Take out the combined level and filler plug on the PTO gearbox.
3. The oil should reach the bottom of the opening. Top up through the opening if it is low.
4. Refit the plug.

Tools: Rag, Funnel

1. Park on level ground with all hydraulic rams extended and the engine off for at least five minutes. On some wheel and tyre combinations the tractor may need raising slightly to be level.
2. Read the sight glass on the left of the rear axle housing: the level should sit between the two marks (Power Command: marks 2 and 3; Auto Command: Max and Min). For normal use do not fill above the upper mark.
3. If low, take off the filler cap and top up.
4. Refit the cap.

Tools: Rag, Funnel

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Check the whole belt for chafing, cracking, cuts and wear. If in doubt, fit a new belt.
3. Check it sits correctly on all pulleys and that the tensioner works freely.

Tools: Rag

1. Block the front wheels, jack up the rear and support it with the wheels just clear of the ground. Unlatch the brake pedals.
2. Apply the parking brake to the 4th notch of the ratchet.
3. Ease back the rubber boot, loosen the locknuts and turn the adjuster nuts until both wheels start to lock. Release the brake and check both wheels turn freely, then apply it again.
4. Tighten the locknuts and road test: the tractor should stop in a straight line.
5. For the electronic park brake, have a dealer do any adjustment.

Tools: Axle stands, Spanners

1. Take off the six bolts holding the right-hand footstep to reach the battery.
2. Remove the vent plugs and check the electrolyte covers the plates in every cell.
3. Top up with distilled or de-mineralised water if low. Do not overfill.
4. Clean the terminals and coat lightly with petroleum jelly.

Tools: Screwdriver, Petroleum jelly

1. Warm the engine, stop it and take the key out. Hot oil burns, so let it cool a little before you start.
2. Remove the two sump drain plugs at the rear of the sump (one each side) and drain into a container. Refit them.
3. Clean round the filter, unscrew it and throw it away. Clean the mounting face.
4. Smear a thin film of oil on the new filter's seal, screw it on until the seal touches, then a further three-quarters to one full turn. Do not overtighten.
5. Fill through the dipstick/filler cap with about 15 litres of oil.
6. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, stop it and check for leaks at the plugs and filter.
7. Wait 5 minutes, then check the dipstick sits between MIN and MAX. Do not fill above MAX.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Hex or socket for the two sump plugs, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Stop the engine and clean round the filter mounting plate.
2. Unscrew and dispose of the filter(s). Clean the inlet channel and filter face.
3. Smear clean oil on the new seal(s), screw on until the faces just meet, then three-quarters of a turn more. Do not overtighten.
4. Run the engine, check for leaks and recheck the oil level at the sight glass.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Unlatch the three clips on the air cleaner (under the left of the bonnet) and lift off the cover.
2. Twist the outer element gently clockwise and pull it straight out, keeping the inner element in place. Do not disturb the inner element.
3. Clean the housing with a damp lint-free cloth, keeping the sealing end clean and smooth.
4. Fit the new outer element, replace the cover and latch the three clips.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. From the left of the engine check the air cleaner intake clamps, the intake pipe support bracket bolts and the aspirator tube clamps under the air cleaner.
2. From the right check the intercooler to inlet manifold clamps and the exhaust aspirator clamps at the muffler.
3. Special hose clamps are used: pull off the alloy cap from the screw tensioner with pliers to reach a normal screw head, and turn clockwise to tighten. Do not overtighten.

Tools: Screwdriver or nut driver, Pliers

1. Clean thoroughly round the filters before undoing anything.
2. Open the drain tap at the base of the pre-filter and drain the fuel into a container.
3. Unscrew and discard both filters. Wipe a little oil on each new gasket.
4. Screw each on until the gasket touches, then a further three-quarters of a turn to about 15 Nm.
5. The system bleeds itself but if it needs priming follow the handbook's priming procedure (Operation 41) before starting.

Tools: Container, Filter wrench, Rags

1. Park on level ground and apply the park brake.
2. Put a container under the gearbox, remove the level plug and the drain plugs and let the oil drain fully. Refit the drain plugs.
3. Take out the snap ring and loosen the M8 bolt on the filter cover. Withdraw the cover and filter, clean it in solvent, dry it and refit it with the cover seal undamaged.
4. Refill through the combined level and filler plug until oil reaches the bottom of the opening.
5. Run the PTO briefly, stop the engine and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Solvent for the filter

1. Axle: remove the combined level and filler plug; oil should reach the bottom of the opening. Top up if low.
2. Hubs: turn each front wheel so the level plug is at the 3 o'clock position, remove it and check the oil reaches the bottom of the hole. Top up until it just overflows.
3. Refit the plugs.

Tools: Rag, Funnel

1. Book this with your dealer; the handbook says not to do it yourself.

1. Run the engine until the oil is warm. Park on level ground, lower the 3-point hitch, stop the engine, apply the park brake and chock the wheels.
2. Remove both drain plugs (one under the transmission, one under the rear axle) with a hex key and drain all the oil. Refit them.
3. Fit new charge pump (and vane pump) filters as in the 600-hour task.
4. Main cartridge: take off the three 19 mm bolts holding the guard plate under the filter. Unscrew the air bleed valve fully so oil can drain back, wait, then remove the 19 mm plug in the casing and drain it. Use a 41 mm socket to turn the support plate about 45 degrees to the left and remove plate and cartridge.
5. Clean the support plate, lightly oil the new cartridge's seal and refit, making sure the lug lines up with the arrow on the casing. Close the bleed valve and refit the plug and guard.
6. Refill through the filler cap, run the engine and operate the hydraulics, fully extend all cylinders, stop and wait five minutes.
7. Check for leaks and read the sight glass; top up to the correct mark (not above the upper mark for normal use).

Tools: Drain tray (90 L), Hex key for the plugs, 41 mm socket or ring spanner, 19 mm spanner, Funnel, Rags

1. Park on level ground and apply the park brake.
2. Differential: remove the drain plug and drain all the oil. Refit it, then remove the level and filler plug and refill until oil reaches the bottom of the hole. Refit the plug.
3. Hubs: turn each wheel so the combined plug is at the lowest point, remove it and drain. Turn the wheel so the plug is at 3 o'clock, refill to the bottom of the hole and refit the plug.
4. Do both hubs.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Funnel

1. Undo the thumbscrew on each outside filter housing, drop it and take out the old filters. Dispose of them.
2. Wipe out the chambers and fit the new filters with the arrow pointing upwards.
3. Inside filter: turn the captive screws behind the seat to release the cover, remove the old filter, clean the chamber and fit the new one with the arrow pointing to the rear.
4. Refit the covers.

Tools: Lint-free cloth

1. Take off the six bolts holding the right-hand footstep.
2. Remove the vent plugs and check the electrolyte is above the top of the separator plates in each cell.
3. Top up with distilled or de-mineralised water if needed. Do not overfill.
4. Clean the terminals and coat lightly with petroleum jelly.

Tools: Screwdriver, Petroleum jelly

1. Only work on a cold engine. Turn the cab heater control fully to hot.
2. Take off the recovery tank cap and radiator cap, disconnect the radiator lower hose (pull the alloy cap off the clamp with pliers to get at the screw) and drain. Also drain the block plug on the right-hand front of the engine near the oil filter.
3. Flush with a cooling system cleaner as its instructions say, then with clean water: run for 10 minutes and drain again.
4. Refit the hose and refill with the 50/50 mix slowly through the radiator neck to avoid air locks.
5. Top up the recovery tank to the cold mark, run to temperature, let cool, and top up again. Run the heater fully on to clear air locks.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Pliers (for the hose clamp cap), Cooling system cleaner

1. Open the air cleaner (right-hand side of the engine) and remove the outer element.
2. Examine the inside of the outer element: dust inside means the outer is defective.
3. Pull the inner element straight out, clean the housing and fit new inner and outer elements, checking both seat correctly.
4. Refit the cover and latch the three clips.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Book it with your dealer. They need special tools to turn the crankshaft to the correct position.

Tools: Dealer job

1. With the engine cold loosen the clamp and ease the ventilation tube off the valve cover.
2. Undo the retaining nuts and remove the valve cover. Turn the breather pipe elbow a quarter turn anticlockwise and withdraw it. Remove the thumbscrew to free the filter.
3. Remove the three screws holding the regulator and take out the regulator and filter. Clean the valve cover.
4. Fit the new regulator, filter and breather pipe, tightening the regulator screws to 5 Nm.
5. Refit the valve cover with a new gasket and tighten the nuts to 25 Nm.

Tools: Torque wrench, Spanners

1. Clean round the dryer. Open the drain tap on the main air tank in front of the rear axle to exhaust the air.
2. Loosen the guard clamp bolts and move the guard clear.
3. Unscrew the old dryer reservoir with a filter release tool and dispose of it correctly.
4. Clean the flange, lightly grease the new reservoir's sealing ring and the threaded pin, screw on until the seal touches, then half a turn more by hand. Do not overtighten.
5. Build up air pressure, check for leaks and refit the guard.

Tools: Filter release tool

1. Book this with your dealer.

1. Book the air conditioning service with your dealer.