New Holland T7030 / T7040 / T7050 / T7060 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Wipe each fitting clean before and after greasing.
3. Grease the right and left lift arms, right and left lift rods (a tractor with a hydraulic right-hand lift rod has no fitting there) and the top link.
4. Grease the front axle. A 2WD axle has fittings on the outer steering parts, front hubs and centre steering parts. A standard 4WD axle has front and rear trunnion pins.
5. SuperSteer axle: front and rear trunnion pins and the lower swivel bearing. Suspended axle: front trunnion pin, upper and lower damper pivots, Panhard rod pivot and the suspension arm (the fitting is at the rear of the arm under the tractor).
6. On suspended and SuperSteer axles, grease the drive shaft universal joint (the fitting is at the rear; some shields have an access hole).
7. Grease the 4WD steering cylinders, track rods and the hub steering and swivel bearings on both sides. A tractor with a steering angle sensor has a sealed right-hand upper swivel bearing with no fitting.
8. Grease the rear tow hitch fittings, which vary with the hitch type (auto engagement, slider frame, slider frame with swivel coupling).
9. Oil all other pivots, then wipe off any surplus.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and let it cool. Wear eye protection and keep bystanders away.
2. Release the fasteners on the air conditioner condenser by pulling them forward and swing the condenser out.
3. Release the spring clip and, using the grab handle, pull the intercooler and oil cooler up and out. They lock in the raised position. A tractor with a front PTO has a small extra oil cooler.
4. Blow or wash through each core from the back to the front, working in this order: radiator, condenser, then the driveline oil cooler. Keep the pressure at or below 7 bar (100 psi).
5. Gently straighten any bent fins.
6. Lower the coolers by pulling up on the handle while pushing the top of the intercooler in, then refit the condenser.

Tools: Compressed air or a low-pressure washer (7 bar / 100 psi at most), Eye protection, Dust mask

1. Switch off the blower. To shake loose dirt off the underside, close the roof hatch, windows and one door, then slam the other door.
2. External filters: release the clip at the front of the filter cover, take off the cover and lift out the element. The media has a rubber seal bonded to the top, so take care not to tear it.
3. Blow air through each element from the clean (upper) side to the dirty side with the nozzle at least 300 mm away. Keep the air under 2 bar (30 psi).
4. Wipe the filter chambers with a damp lint-free cloth. Refit the elements clean side up and refit the covers.
5. Internal filter: loosen the retaining screws, remove the cover, take out the filter, clean it the same way and refit it.

Tools: Compressed air (2 bar / 30 psi at most), Lint-free damp cloth

1. Poly-V belt: inspect it along its whole length for chafing, cracking and cuts. If in doubt, fit a new one. Check it sits correctly on the pulleys and the tensioner works.
2. Transmission and rear axle oil: park on level ground with all cylinders extended and the engine off for at least five minutes. The level must be between the high and low marks in the sight glass on the left of the rear axle housing. Top up through the filler cap if needed.
3. Parking brake: block the front wheels, jack up the rear and support it. Apply the brake to the fourth notch of the ratchet, ease back the rubber boot, loosen the locknuts and turn the adjuster nuts until both wheels just start to lock. Release it, check both wheels turn freely, reapply and tighten the locknuts. Road test.
4. Front PTO gearbox (if fitted): take out the combined level and filler plug. The oil should reach the bottom of the opening. Top up if needed and refit the plug.
5. Tractors used in tropical climates: check the battery electrolyte level covers the plates, topping up with distilled water only.

Tools: Spanners for the brake cable locknuts, Funnel

1. Warm the engine, then park on level ground, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Remove the two drain plugs at the rear of the sump, one on each side of the engine, and catch the oil. If it is extremely hot let it cool to warm first. Refit the plugs.
3. Clean around the filter, unscrew it and throw it away. Clean the mounting face.
4. Wipe a thin film of oil on the new filter's seal. Screw it on until the seal touches, then turn a further 3/4 to 1 full turn. Do not overtighten.
5. Fill with 15 L of oil through the filler cap, to the right grade for the season.
6. Run the engine at idle for 3 minutes, stop it and check the drain plugs and filter for leaks.
7. Wait 5 minutes and check the dipstick. The level should be between MIN and MAX. Do not fill above MAX.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Filter wrench, Spanner for the drain plugs, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. Move the remote control levers both ways to release pressure.
2. Clean around the filter mounting plate and filters.
3. Spin-on charge filter: unscrew and throw it away. Clean the inlet channel and filter face, smear clean oil on the new seal, screw it on until the faces meet and turn a further 3/4 turn. Do not overtighten.
4. Main cartridge, three-nut type: remove the three retaining nuts, change the cartridge, lightly oil the sealing ring and refit without overtightening.
5. Main cartridge, bleed-valve type: unscrew the air bleed valve fully so the oil drains back, wait, remove the 19 mm plug to drain the casing, then turn the support plate about 45° left with a 41 mm socket and remove the plate and filter. Clean the plate, fit the new cartridge with a lightly oiled seal, and refit so the plate locks and its lug lines up with the arrow on the casing.
6. Check the oil level in the sight glass and top up. Run the engine, work the hydraulics and recheck.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), 41 mm socket or ring spanner (cartridge plate), 19 mm spanner (plug), Filter wrench, Rags

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Take off the housing cover, remove the outer element carefully and throw it away.
3. Wipe the inside of the housing with a damp lint-free cloth, taking care not to damage the inner element.
4. Fit the new outer element and close the housing.
5. Check every air intake clamp from the air cleaner to the turbo, intercooler and inlet manifold for tightness. Do not overtighten.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth, Screwdriver

1. Clean around the filter heads thoroughly before loosening anything.
2. Pre-filter: undo the drain tap at the base (you may have to unclip the sensor wire), drain the fuel into a container, then unscrew the filter.
3. Lightly oil the new filter's gasket, screw it on until the gasket touches the head, then tighten to 15 N·m. Do not overtighten.
4. Change the secondary filter the same way.
5. Prime the fuel system before starting (handbook operation 36, page 4-55), then start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Drain container, Filter wrench, Rags

1. Park on level ground with the engine off.
2. Axle: remove the combined level and filler plug. Oil should reach the bottom of the opening. Top up if needed and refit the plug.
3. Hubs: turn each wheel until the level/filler plug is at the 3 o'clock position, remove it and check the oil just reaches the opening. Top up until it just overflows, then refit the plug. Do both sides.

Tools: Spanner or socket for the plugs, Oil can

1. Run the engine and work the hydraulics until the oil is warm. Park on level ground, lower the linkage, stop the engine, apply the parking brake and chock the wheels.
2. Let very hot oil cool to warm before opening the plugs.
3. Remove both drain plugs with a hex key, one under the transmission and one under the rear axle, and drain all the oil. Refit the plugs.
4. Change the hydraulic and transmission filters (see the 600 hour filter task) before refilling.
5. Take off the filler plug cap and refill with new oil.
6. Run the engine, work the hydraulics and fully raise the linkage. Stop the engine and wait five minutes, checking for leaks.
7. Check the level in the sight glass is between MIN and MAX and top up. Do not fill above full.

Tools: Large drain tray (110 L), Hex key for the drain plugs, 41 mm socket, Filter wrench, Funnel or pump, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, warm the oil, stop the engine and chock the wheels.
2. Drain the axle differential, each hub and the front PTO gearbox using the plugs on each (handbook pages 4-39 and 4-43 show where).
3. Refit the plugs, then refill through the level/filler openings until oil reaches the bottom of each opening.
4. Turn the hub plug to the 3 o'clock position when filling the hubs.
5. Check for leaks after a short drive.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Socket set, Funnel, Gloves

1. External filters: turn the quick-release fastener a quarter turn anti-clockwise, remove the cover and filter, clean the chambers with a damp lint-free cloth, and fit the new element with the arrow pointing up.
2. Internal filter: loosen the captive screws, remove the cover and filter, clean the chamber, and fit the new element with its arrow pointing to the rear of the tractor.
3. Refit the covers. The media has a rubber seal around the sides, so do not damage it.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Only start on a cold engine. Turn the radiator cap slowly to the first stop with a thick cloth and let pressure escape before taking it off.
2. Turn the heater control fully to hot.
3. Disconnect the radiator lower hose and drain the coolant. The hose clamps have an alloy cap over the screw: pull it off with pliers to get at the screw.
4. Remove the drain plug on the right-hand side of the engine block and drain the rest. Take off the radiator and recovery tank caps to speed the draining.
5. Flush with a commercial cooling system cleaner, following its instructions, then drain it and let the engine cool.
6. Refill with the 50% mix. Never put cold coolant in a hot engine. Run to temperature, let it cool and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Pliers (to pull the alloy cap off the hose clamp screw), Hose clamp spanner, Cooling system cleaner, Thick cloth

1. Remove the outer element as for the 600 hour job.
2. Take out the inner element carefully so no dirt falls into the intake.
3. Wipe the housing, fit the new inner element and then the outer, and close the housing.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Let the engine cool completely.
2. Take off the rocker cover.
3. Set and check each valve at the clearance in your handbook, turning the engine to the right position for each cylinder.
4. Refit the cover with a good gasket.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Socket set, Torque wrench