New Holland TM120 / TM130 / TM140 / TM155 / TM175 / TM190 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, extend all cylinders, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Check the engine oil on the dipstick; it should sit between the two notches. Never fill above the upper notch.
3. Check the coolant recovery tank, brake fluid and clutch fluid (Shuttle Command only) reservoirs.
4. Open the fuel filter and water separator drain until clean diesel runs, then close it.
5. Drain the air reservoirs if the tractor has air brakes.
6. Watch for the air filter restriction light; clean the outer element when it comes on.

Tools: Rag, Small container for fuel filter water

1. Wipe each nipple clean first.
2. Grease the right and left lift rods, the external lift cylinders (TM175, TM190) and any assister ram.
3. Grease the 2WD front spindles, steering arm and trunnion pin (TM120–TM155), or the 2WD axle steering parts (TM175, TM190).
4. On 4WD, grease the front and rear trunnion pins, steering cylinders, upper and lower swivel bearings and, on suspended or SuperSteer axles, the suspension arm, damper pivot, Panhard rod pivot and drive shaft joint.
5. Give the rear axle shaft fitting at each end two strokes only.
6. Grease the rear tow hitch, front hitch and heavy-duty drawbar roller if fitted, and pack the 2WD front hub caps with fresh grease.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Slide out the transmission oil cooler and air conditioner condenser by turning the two quick-release fasteners.
2. Blow or wash from the back to the front: radiator first, then condenser, then oil cooler. Straighten bent fins.
3. Clean the cab filters with air at no more than 2 bar from 300 mm away. Do not wash them.
4. Check the wheel nuts to the torque figures in the spec list and set the tyre pressures for the load.

Tools: Compressed air (low pressure) or pressure washer under 7 bar, Eye protection

1. Run the engine warm, park on level ground, stop it and apply the parking brake.
2. Take the drain plug out of the left-hand side of the engine and drain the oil; refit the plug.
3. Unscrew the filter, clean the mounting face, oil the new seal, screw on until the seal touches, then a further 3/4 to 1 turn.
4. Fill with about 19 L of oil, run at idle for 3 minutes, stop and look for leaks.
5. Wait 5 minutes and check the dipstick, which should be between the notches.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Filter wrench, Spanner for drain plug, Funnel, Gloves, Rags

1. Check the 4WD front axle level plug and each hub level plug (turn the hub so the plug is at 3 o'clock); top up through the hole with the same oil.
2. Grease the front suspension cylinder top bearing (a flexible hose on the grease gun avoids taking the belt guard off).
3. Check the transmission oil level on the dipstick, or the sight glass between the high and low marks on TM175 and TM190. Park level with all cylinders extended and wait five minutes.
4. Inspect the Poly-V belt over its full length and check the compressor belt tension where fitted.
5. Check the torque of the safety cab mounting bolts and adjust the parking brake.

Tools: Torque wrench, Grease gun, Spanners

1. Clean around the filters, 'crack' the main filter open and wait a moment so the oil can drain back.
2. Unscrew and discard the disposable filters; on the cartridge types undo the three nuts (or the bleed screw and lower cover) and swap the element and O-ring.
3. Smear the new seals with clean oil and screw on until the faces meet, then 3/4 of a turn more.
4. Run the engine, work the hydraulics and check the level and for leaks.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Undo the wing nut (TM120–TM155) or the three clips (TM175, TM190) and take out the outer element without disturbing the inner one.
2. If there is dust inside the outer element it is faulty and must be replaced, and the inner element with it.
3. Clean by tapping gently against your palm, or blow from the inside with air at no more than 2 bar from 150 mm away.
4. Hold a light inside: bin it if you see pin pricks of light or thin patches.
5. Wipe the housing with a damp lint-free cloth and refit, then check all the intake hose clamps.

Tools: Compressed air (2 bar maximum), Lint-free cloth, Eye protection and mask

1. Clean the area, open the bleed screw and the drain knobs on the sedimenter and filter and let the fuel out.
2. Unscrew the retaining ring, change the filter and close both drains.
3. With the bleed screw open, turn the key on to run the electric pump until fuel with no bubbles comes out, then tighten the screw.
4. Release the two clips on the breather housing above the valve cover, replace the element and pad, and fit a new sealing ring in the cover.

Tools: Container for diesel, Rags

1. Clean the area, drain the sedimenter and filter as for the secondary filter, then remove the bowl and ring and change the element.
2. Refit the bowl and ring and bleed the system the same way.
3. Change the external and recirculation cab filters, and check the battery level with distilled water only.

Tools: Container for diesel, Rags

1. Warm the oil by working the hydraulics, park level, lower the linkage, apply the brake and chock the wheels.
2. Take out the drain plug and drain all the oil, then refit it.
3. Change the filters before filling.
4. Refill through the filler cap, run the engine and raise the linkage fully, stop, wait five minutes and check for leaks.
5. Top up until the oil is between MIN and MAX; do not fill above full.

Tools: Large drain tray (110 L), Filter wrench, Funnel, Spanners

1. Park level with the brake on, drain the differential from the drain plug, refit it and fill to the bottom of the level and filler hole.
2. Turn each wheel so the combined plug is at the lowest point and drain, then turn it to 3 o'clock and refill to the bottom of the plug hole.
3. Refit the plugs and check for leaks.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump or funnel

1. Wait until the engine is cool, turn the heater to full hot and make sure the heater valve is open.
2. Disconnect the radiator bottom hose, take out the block drain plug at the left rear of the engine and take the radiator and tank caps off to speed drainage.
3. Flush with cleaner, then with plain water run for 10 minutes. Never put cold coolant into a hot engine.
4. Refit the plug and hose, fill slowly to the bottom of the filler neck, fill the recovery tank to the cold mark, run to temperature and top up again.
5. If antifreeze is unobtainable use clean water with 5% chemical inhibitor (parts 83958743, 83958744 or 83958745; they differ only in the label languages).

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Hose, Cooling system cleaner

1. Book it with your dealer or an injector specialist.
2. If doing it yourself, clean everything first and cap every open line. Injector bolts go to 23 Nm, the leak-off banjo bolt to 6 Nm and the high-pressure line nut to 24 Nm; bleed the system afterwards.

Tools: Torque wrench

1. Book it with your dealer. Never open the refrigerant circuit yourself.