New Holland TM115 / TM125 / TM135 / TM150 / TM165 service schedule

1. Park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Linkage: both lift rods (turnbuckle type) or the right-hand hydraulic lift rod, and the assister ram(s) where fitted.
3. 2WD axle: front trunnion pin, both front wheel spindles and the right-hand steering arm.
4. Standard 4WD axle: front and rear trunnion pins. SuperSteer: trunnion pin, steering cylinders and track rods. Suspended axle: trunnion pin, damper and Panhard rod pivots, and the suspension arm under the tractor.
5. All 4WD axles: upper and lower swivel bearings both sides, and both steering cylinders (plus dynamic mudguards where fitted). Suspended and SuperSteer axles: the drive shaft universal joint.
6. Hitches: rear tow hitch, front hitch and heavy-duty roller drawbar where fitted. Oil all pivots and wipe off surplus.

Tools: Grease gun, Oil can, Rag

1. Run the engine until warm, park level, stop it and set the parking brake. Take the key out.
2. Be careful of hot oil; let very hot oil cool to warm. Wear gloves.
3. Remove the drain plug on the left side of the engine, drain the oil and refit the plug.
4. Clean round the filter, unscrew it and throw it away. Oil the new seal and fit it as the handbook says.
5. Fill to the dipstick mark, run the engine, check for leaks, stop, wait and recheck.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Spanner for the drain plug, Filter wrench, Funnel, Gloves

1. Park level, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Check the differential level plug: oil should reach the bottom of the hole.
3. Turn each front wheel so the hub plug is at the level position, check and top up, then refit the plugs.

Tools: Spanner, Oil pump or squeeze bottle

1. Stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Grease the rear axle shaft fittings as your handbook shows.
3. 2WD tractors: grease the front wheel bearings as your handbook shows.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Lower the linkage, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels. All the filters are under the right-hand side of the floor.
2. On CCLS tractors, crack the main filter open and wait a moment so oil drains back before removing it.
3. Clean round each spin-on filter, unscrew it, clean the face, oil the new seal and screw it on until the faces meet, then a further 3/4 turn. Do not overtighten.
4. Open-centre main filter with paper cartridge: loosen the bleed screw, remove the screws and lower cover, take out the element, fit a new cartridge and reassemble, then tighten the bleed screw.
5. Run the engine, check for leaks and check the transmission oil level.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Screwdriver, Rag

1. Stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Remove the outer element carefully so dust does not fall into the clean side.
3. Wipe the housing with a damp cloth, fit the new element and close the housing.
4. Check every intake hose and clip between the air cleaner, turbo and engine for cracks and tightness.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth, Screwdriver for hose clips

1. Work on a cold engine. Take the key out. On TM150 and TM165 you may need to remove the air cleaner and coolant recovery tank first.
2. Remove the ventilation tube (two screws) and the 14 rocker cover screws, and lift off the cover.
3. Turn the crankshaft until a pair of valves in the handbook's 'valves open' column is fully open, and adjust the matching pair: for example with 1 inlet / 3 exhaust open, adjust 4 exhaust / 6 inlet.
4. Set inlet to 0.36–0.46 mm and exhaust to 0.43–0.53 mm, turning the adjusting screw clockwise to close the gap.
5. Work through all six pairs, then refit the cover.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners, Screwdriver, Socket set

1. Clean the filter area first. Keep flames away.
2. Drain the filter, remove the old element and fit the new one.
3. Loosen the bleed screw on the secondary filter head and work the lift pump until fuel flows free of air, then tighten the screw.
4. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Tools: Container, Clean rag, Spanners

1. Clean the area. Loosen the bleed screw on the secondary filter.
2. Open the drain knobs on the sedimenter and filter and drain into a container.
3. Unscrew the bowl and ring from the sedimenter, unscrew the quick-start retaining ring, take out the filter and fit the new one with the bowl.
4. Bleed the system as for the secondary filter, then check for leaks.

Tools: Container, Clean rag

1. Switch the blower off.
2. Remove the filter covers and elements; take care of the rubber sealing strip.
3. Wipe both filter chambers with a damp cloth.
4. Fit the new elements with the clean side uppermost and refit the covers.

Tools: Screwdriver, Damp lint-free cloth

1. Warm the oil, park level, lower the linkage, stop the engine, set the parking brake, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Move the levers with the engine off to release pressure. Let very hot oil cool to warm and wear gloves.
3. Drain the transmission, refit the plug and change the filters as in the 600-hour task.
4. Refill to the full mark on the dipstick, run the engine, work the hydraulics, stop and recheck.

Tools: Drain tray (100 L), Large spanner, Filter wrench, Pump

1. Park level, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Drain the differential, refit the plug and fill to the bottom of the level hole.
3. Turn each hub so its plug is at the bottom and drain it, then turn it to the level position and fill to the bottom of the hole.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump

1. Work only on a cold engine; open the cap slowly with a cloth to let pressure out.
2. Drain the radiator and block, flush with clean water.
3. Refill with 50% antifreeze and 50% soft water, run the engine warm, let it cool and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (30 L), Hose, Antifreeze tester, Thick cloth

1. Remove the outer element, then the inner one, and cover the outlet with a clean cloth.
2. Wipe the housing, fit the new inner element at once, then the outer element, and close the housing.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Clean round the injectors and pipes before undoing anything.
2. Have the injectors tested and reset, or fit exchange injectors.
3. Refit, bleed the fuel system and check for leaks with cardboard, never your hand.

Tools: Injector tester (specialist), Torque wrench