New Holland TS90, TS100, TS110 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, lower implements, stop the engine and take the key out.
2. Pre-cleaner (if fitted): if dirt or chaff is above the Maximum line in the bowl, undo the wing nut, empty and dry the bowl and refit it.
3. Engine oil: wait five minutes after stopping, then check the dipstick sits between the two notches (the gap is about 1.8 litres).
4. Check the radiator, oil cooler and air conditioner condenser cores for chaff; blow out from the back with air or a washer under 7 bar.
5. Coolant: with the engine cold the level should be about half way up the filler tube. Top up with the 50/50 mix.
6. Top up the washer reservoir (under the back of the cab, if fitted).

Tools: Rag

1. Switch the blower off, close the roof hatch, windows and one door, then slam the other door to knock off loose dirt.
2. Undo the screw at the front of each outside filter cover and lift out the filter. Remove the inside covers the same way.
3. Blow them out from the clean side with air no stronger than 2 bar (30 lbf/in2).
4. Wipe the filter chambers with a damp lint-free cloth and refit the filters with the rubber seal uppermost.

Tools: Compressed air (2 bar maximum)

1. Look at the level in the reservoir; it must never fall below the MIN line.
2. If it needs topping up, loosen the nut so the reservoir swings out clear of the bonnet, unscrew the cap and top up to the upper line. Do not overfill.
3. Refit the cap and tighten the nut.

Tools: Funnel, Rag

1. Check the wheel nuts are tight (check your handbook for the torque).
2. Check the pressures against the handbook's tyre pressure and load tables for your tyres.
3. Inspect the tread and sidewalls for damage.

Tools: Torque wrench, Tyre gauge (calcium-chloride type if the tyres are ballasted with it)

1. Clean round the separator.
2. If water or dirt shows in the glass bowl, loosen the drain plug and let the contaminated fuel run into a container.
3. Tighten the plug. On the TS90, TS100 and TS110 turn the key-start switch to the position that runs the lift pump to refill the bowl; on the TS115 use the primer plunger.

Tools: Container, Rag

1. Park on level ground, extend all rams and read the dipstick: the level should be between the high and low marks.
2. Top up through the filler plug to the upper mark if low. Do not overfill.

Tools: Rag, Funnel

1. Wipe each nipple clean first.
2. 2WD: both front wheel hubs, both front spindles and the right-hand steering arm (the left-hand arm is sealed for life), and the trunnion pin.
3. 4WD: front and rear trunnion pins and both steering cylinder pivots.
4. 12x12 gearbox: peel back the rubber boot and grease the gear linkage nipples.
5. Both lift rods, the swivelling tow hitch (where fitted) and the heavy-duty roller drawbar (where fitted).

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Warm the engine, stop it and take the key out. Hot oil burns, so let it cool a little first.
2. Remove the sump drain plug and drain the oil. Refit the plug.
3. Clean round the filter, unscrew it and throw it away.
4. Smear clean oil on the new filter's seal, screw on until the faces just meet, then a further three-quarters of a turn. Do not overtighten.
5. Fill through the filler cap with about 11.4 litres of oil. Run the engine for a minute, stop it and wait a few minutes.
6. Check the dipstick sits between the two notches. Do not fill above the upper notch.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Spanner for sump plug, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags, Gloves

1. Wipe the nipples clean.
2. Grease the upper swivel bearing nipple on each side (provision is made in the fender bracket if fenders are fitted).
3. Grease the lower swivel bearing nipple on each side.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Differential: remove the combined level and filler plug; the oil should reach the bottom of the opening. Top up if low and refit the plug.
2. Hubs: put each front wheel with the level plug at the 3 o'clock position, remove it and check the oil reaches the bottom of the opening. Top up if needed and repeat on the other side.

Tools: Rag, Funnel

1. Get under the cab or platform. Check the front mount nuts and the bracket to transmission bolts on both sides.
2. Check the rear mount nuts and bolts on both sides.
3. On 2-post ROPS tractors check the ROPS frame to axle housing bolts and, with heavy-duty fenders, the fender bolts and nut.
4. Tighten any that are low to the torque above.

Tools: Torque wrench (up to 420 Nm)

1. Clean round the filter and its mounting.
2. Unscrew and discard the filter. Clean the mounting face.
3. Smear clean oil on the new filter's seal, screw on until the faces meet, then three-quarters of a turn more.
4. Run the engine, check for leaks and recheck the oil level.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Block the front wheels, jack up the rear and support with the wheels just clear of the ground. Unlatch the pedals and release the handbrake with slack in the cables.
2. Footbrakes: loosen the adjuster nuts on both pull rods, then tighten one until its wheel starts to lock. Back it off one and a third turns (8 flats) and check the wheel turns freely. Repeat on the other side.
3. Handbrake: apply to the 4th notch of the ratchet, ease back the boot, loosen the locknuts and turn the adjuster nuts until both wheels begin to lock.
4. Release, check both wheels turn freely, tighten the locknuts and road test. Lock the pedals together and make sure the tractor stops straight.

Tools: Axle stands, Spanners

1. Remove the filters as in the 50-hour task.
2. Soak them in warm water with a little mild detergent for 10 to 15 minutes, keeping the clean (outlet) side above the water.
3. Rinse under gently running water from the clean side through to the dirty side. Shake off the surplus.
4. Let them dry naturally with the clean side uppermost. Do not use heat or compressed air, and do not refit until fully dry.

Tools: Mild detergent, Warm water

1. Clean round the filters and mounting faces.
2. Unscrew and discard each filter.
3. Smear clean oil on each new seal, screw on until the faces meet, then three-quarters of a turn more. Do not overtighten.
4. Run the engine, check for leaks and recheck the oil level on the dipstick.

Tools: Filter wrench, Drain tray, Rags

1. Undo the wing nut on the centre stud and ease out the outer element. Do not disturb the inner element.
2. Look inside the outer element: dust means it is defective and must be replaced.
3. Clean by tapping the ends on your palm, or blowing from the inside out with air under 2 bar from about 150 mm. Washing: soak in warm detergent water for 15 minutes, rinse from inside to outside and let it dry naturally for one to three days. Never use fuel, solvent or heat.
4. Check it against a light for pinholes or thin patches and discard it if any show.
5. Wipe the housing with a damp lint-free cloth and refit.

Tools: Compressed air (2 bar maximum), Damp lint-free cloth

1. Apply the parking brake, jack up and support one front wheel and chock the other three.
2. Remove the hub cap, split pin, castellated nut, thrust washer and outer bearing, then pull off the wheel and hub and take out the grease retainer and inner bearing.
3. Clean everything in solvent and let it dry. Check the bearings and cups for discolouration or wear.
4. Pack the bearings and the space between the cups with grease and grease the spindle. Fit a new grease retainer seal.
5. Tighten the nut to 34 Nm, turn the hub three to six revolutions clockwise, tighten to 68 Nm, then slacken by two slots. If the split pin hole does not line up, turn the nut clockwise just enough to align.
6. Fit a new split pin and the hub cap and repeat on the other wheel.

Tools: Jack and axle stands, Torque wrench, Solvent, Grease gun

1. Clean round the filters before undoing anything.
2. Loosen the drain plug on the sediment separator and drain. Take out the centre bolt, remove the glass bowl, wash it in clean fuel and refit it.
3. TS90, TS100, TS110: turn the key-start switch to run the lift pump and refill the sedimenter. Loosen the drain plug on the fuel filter, drain, unscrew the quick-start retaining ring, fit a new element and seal, tighten the plug and run the lift pump to refill the filter. The handbook says bleeding is not needed.
4. TS115: drain the filter, unscrew and discard the element, fit a new element and gasket with the drain plug closed, then loosen the bleed screw and press the primer plunger until air-free fuel comes out. Tighten the bleed screw and press the plunger until firm.
5. Start the engine with the throttle open and clean the outside of the separator and pump.

Tools: Container, Filter wrench or retaining ring tool, Rags

1. Do this with the engine cold. Ease the ventilation tube from the rocker cover and remove the cover.
2. Turn the crankshaft so the valve pairs listed in the handbook's table are fully open, then check and set the matching valves.
3. Use a feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw to bring it into range.
4. Refit the cover.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Spanners, Screwdriver

1. Remove the four bolts holding the front part of the outer roof panel and lift it off.
2. Remove the 17 screws holding the cover on the air conditioner unit and lift the cover off.
3. Lift the evaporator and heater unit, support it on a small wooden block, and blow out the matrix and the trough with air under 7 bar. Make sure the four corner drain tubes are clear.
4. Lower the unit and refit the cover and roof panel.

Tools: Compressed air (7 bar maximum), Eye protection and face mask

1. Book this with your dealer or injector specialist.

Tools: Dealer job

1. Warm the oil by running the tractor. Park on level ground and stop the engine.
2. Remove the drain plug through the hole in the drawbar hanger or pick-up hitch frame and drain. On 4WD the rear axle oil drains via the transfer box drain plug. Refit the plugs.
3. Change the filters as in the filter tasks above.
4. Refill through the filler plug, check the dipstick, start the engine to circulate, extend all rams, stop and recheck. Do not overfill.

Tools: Drain tray (65 L), Spanners, Funnel, Filter wrench

1. Axle: remove the drain plug under the differential housing, drain, refit. Remove the level and filler plug at the front left and refill until oil reaches the bottom of the opening.
2. Hubs: position the left wheel with the plug lowest, remove and drain. Reposition with the plug at 3 o'clock and refill to the bottom of the opening, then refit the plug.
3. Repeat on the right-hand wheel.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Funnel

1. Remove the outside and inside filters as in the 50-hour task.
2. Wipe out the chambers and fit new filters with the rubber seal uppermost.
3. Refit the covers.

Tools: Lint-free cloth

1. Prise the vent plugs from the top of the battery.
2. Check the electrolyte is 2 to 3 mm (0.08 to 0.12 in) above the separator plates in each cell.
3. Top up with distilled or de-mineralised water if low. Do not overfill.
4. Clean the terminals and coat with petroleum jelly.

Tools: Small screwdriver, Petroleum jelly

1. Only work on a cold engine. Take off the radiator filler cap slowly.
2. Remove the lower radiator hose and let the coolant drain. Undo the block drain plug on the left side of the engine just behind the oil filter. Remove the radiator filler cap to speed it up.
3. Flush with a cooling system cleaner as its label says, then with clean water.
4. Refit the hose and plug, refill with the 50/50 mix, run to temperature, let cool and top up.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Cooling system cleaner

1. Remove the outer element as in the 600-hour task.
2. Pull out the inner element, clean the housing with a damp lint-free cloth and fit the new inner element.
3. Refit the outer element and the cover.

Tools: Damp lint-free cloth

1. Book this with your dealer.

Tools: Dealer job