Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. service schedule

1. Park on level ground with the handlebars straight.
2. Hand brake: look at the master cylinder window on the left handlebar. Dark means full; clear means low. Keep the level 6 mm below the top edge.
3. Foot brake: remove the seat and check the level is between the min and max marks.
4. If low, add DOT 4 only. Do not overfill: an over-full master cylinder can cause brake drag or lock-up. Brake fluid absorbs water, so throw away any opened, unused fluid.
5. Check for leaks, excess travel or a spongy feel. Do not ride with spongy brakes; see your dealer.
6. Check the pads and replace them when the friction material is worn to 1 mm. Check the discs for damage.
7. Have the brake fluid changed every two years.

Tools: Torch, Rule

1. Remove the left side panel. The breather filter is in the hose between the engine and the air box.
2. Remove the hose clamps and pull the filter out of the hoses.
3. Check for debris and blow gently through it in the direction of the arrow. Replace it if damaged or clogged.
4. Check the hoses for cracks, wear or leaks.
5. Refit the filter and clamps (it works with the arrow either way) and the side panel.

Tools: Screwdriver, Pliers for hose clamps

1. Park on level ground, transmission in PARK, engine off.
2. Grease the front prop shaft yoke fitting with U-Joint Lube: 3 pumps maximum.
3. Lubricate all other fittings, pivots and cables. Lubricate the shift linkage, steering, and front and rear suspension (50 hours, 6 months or 800 km).
4. Grease again after pressure washing or if the quad has been submerged.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Petrol is highly flammable. Work outdoors with the engine cold, no smoking or flames.
2. Drain the carburettor float bowl into a container and dispose of it properly.
3. Check the throttle and choke cables move freely and are not frayed. Check the intake duct seals for air leaks.
4. Warm the engine about five minutes, put the transmission in gear and lock the parking brake, then set the idle to 1,200 ± 200 rpm with the idle screw (in to raise, out to lower).
5. Pilot screws are sealed and are a dealer job, as is jetting for altitude or very cold weather.

Tools: Screwdriver, Small container for fuel, Rag

1. Have the belt and clutches inspected by your dealer unless you have the service manual and tools.
2. If water gets into the PVT: park in PARK, remove the PVT drain plug and let it drain, refit it, then run the engine with varying throttle for 10–15 seconds (never full throttle more than 10 seconds) to dry the belt. Test for slipping and see your dealer soon.
3. Use low range below 11 km/h, when towing heavy loads and in rough ground, to save the belt.

Tools: Service manual

1. Park on level ground and put the transmission in PARK. Start the engine and idle for two minutes, then stop it. Hot oil burns: keep it off your skin.
2. Clean around the oil tank drain plug, put a tray under the oil tank, remove the plug and drain the oil.
3. Clean the drain plug and refit it with a new sealing washer at 19–23 N·m.
4. Disconnect the lower oil delivery hose and remove the screen fitting from the oil tank. Clean it, seal the threads with Loctite PST 505 or PTFE tape, and screw it in at least 2 1/2 turns until the nipple lines up with the mark on the tank. Do not exceed 34 N·m. Reattach the hose.
5. Put towels under the oil filter and turn it anticlockwise with a filter wrench to remove it. Clean the sealing face on the crankcase.
6. Oil the new filter's O-ring and screw it on until it touches, then turn it 1/2 turn more by hand.
7. About 240 ml stays in the crankcase. To drain it, remove the crankcase drain plug on the lower right side, then refit it to specification.
8. Remove the dipstick and add 1.9 L of Premium 4 0W-40 (about 1.6 L if the sump was not drained).
9. Prime the oil pump: clamp the oil tank vent line 5 cm from the tank, start the engine and idle 10–20 seconds, then remove the clamp. You should hear a rush of air; if not, repeat. This must be done whenever the tank-to-pump hose has been disconnected.
10. Stop the engine, check for leaks, check the level is in the safe range on the dipstick and do not overfill. Dispose of the old oil and filter properly.

Tools: Drain tray (3 L), Oil filter wrench, Socket set, Torque wrench (19–23 N·m), Funnel, Shop towels, Gloves

1. Let the engine cool. Remove the left side panel and the plug cap.
2. Turn the plug anticlockwise with the spark plug wrench to remove it.
3. Check the insulator: tan or brown is normal; white means overheating; black and wet means fouling. Replace worn or fouled plugs.
4. Check the gap is 0.9 mm.
5. Refit and torque as the manual's table says: new plug 12–15 N·m, previously installed plug 23–27 N·m. Refit the cap and side panel.

Tools: Plug spanner, Feeler gauge, Torque wrench

1. Only check with the engine cold.
2. The clearance figure and procedure are in the Polaris service manual. If you do not have it, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Service manual

1. Let the exhaust cool fully, and work outdoors away from anything that can burn.
2. Follow the owner's manual to remove the arrestor, tap out the carbon and refit it securely.
3. Wear gloves and eye protection; cover the outlet when knocking carbon out.

Tools: Screwdriver, Gloves, Eye protection

1. Park on level ground, put the transmission in PARK and stop the engine.
2. Transmission: remove the fill plug, then the drain plug, and drain into a tray. Clean and refit the drain plug at 30 N·m.
3. Transmission: fill with AGL until the level is at the bottom of the fill plug hole threads (about 948 ml). Refit the fill plug at 30 N·m and check for leaks.
4. Front gearcase: remove the fill plug, then the drain plug, and drain. Clean and refit the drain plug at 15 N·m.
5. Front gearcase: fill with Demand Drive Plus Fluid to the bottom of the fill hole threads (about 175 ml). Other fluids can stop the front drive working properly. Refit the fill plug at 11–14 N·m.
6. Dispose of the old oil properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Torque wrench (11–30 N·m), Oil syringe or squeeze bottle

1. Never remove the radiator pressure cap while the engine is warm or hot: escaping steam can cause severe burns.
2. Check the recovery bottle level (under the left side panel) between the marks when cold. If the bottle has run dry, check the level at the radiator filler neck through the front box access door.
3. Use Polaris Premium 60/40 as it comes, or a 50/50 mix of aluminium-compatible antifreeze and distilled water.
4. Have the system drained and refilled every two years; follow the service manual or have your dealer do it.
5. Coolant is poisonous to animals: catch it all and dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Antifreeze tester

1. Park on level ground and put the transmission in PARK. Remove the seat.
2. Release the air box cover clips and remove the cover. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the filter.
3. Remove the pre-filter from the filter. Wash the pre-filter in soapy water, rinse and let it air dry.
4. Replace the main filter if it is dirty or damaged.
5. Refit all parts in reverse order.
6. Check the air box sediment tube and drain any deposits you can see.

Tools: Bucket of soapy water, Gloves