Suzuki LT-A450X KingQuad 450AXi service schedule

1. Remove the seat, then the fasteners and cover. Remove the bolt and the element assembly.
2. Blow dust out with an air line from the throttle body side only. Blowing from the cover side forces dirt into the element.
3. Replace the element if it is torn or clogged with dust or oil.
4. Refit it in reverse order and make sure it is fully seated and sealing. Never run the engine without it.
5. If water has got into the air cleaner case, clean the element and the inside of the case immediately.
6. Check the air cleaner drain tube. If petrol or oil has collected, remove the caps and drain into a container. Both are flammable.

Tools: Compressed air line, Screwdriver, Gloves, Eye protection

1. With the engine off, check the throttle lever play and that it springs back. Adjust at the cable adjuster as the owner's manual shows.
2. Look along the fuel hose for cracks or damage. Petrol is highly flammable: no smoking or flames.
3. Idle speed needs a tachometer. If you do not have one, have your dealer set it.
4. Run the engine only outdoors.

Tools: Spanners, Tachometer (or have a dealer set idle)

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Check the front brake fluid level and look for leaks. Use only DOT 4; never mix types. Brake fluid is harmful and damages paint and plastics.
3. Check the front pads for wear. Replace both pads together, and pump the lever several times afterwards before riding.
4. Rear brake pedal: set 20–30 mm free travel with the adjuster.
5. Rear brake lever (parking brake): set 6–8 mm play at the lever holder. With the rear wheels off the ground they must spin freely with the brake off and lock with the parking brake on.
6. Rear wear: fully apply the brake and check the index mark is within the limit. If it is outside, have the brake plates replaced by your dealer.
7. Every 2 years have the brake fluid replaced, and every 4 years the brake hoses.

Tools: Torch, Rule, Spanners

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out.
2. Check the front and rear drive shaft rubber boots for damage and grease leaks.
3. Ask your dealer to replace any damaged boot.

Tools: Torch, Rag

1. The belt is inside the CVT cover. Have your dealer inspect it unless you have the service manual and tools.
2. A slipping or juddering drive can mean a worn or wet belt.

Tools: Service manual

1. Grease the brake lever holder, the throttle lever and front brake lever holder, the steering shaft holder, the brake pedal and rod link, the drive shaft joint spline and the propeller shaft joint spline.
2. Do not grease or oil the switches: it damages them.
3. Lubricate more often after severe use.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Park on level ground, engine warm, engine off, key out. Hot oil burns: wear gloves. Keep children and animals away from old oil.
2. Remove the fasteners and cover, then the oil filler cap. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the engine and drain into a tray.
3. Remove the screw, fasteners and inner cover. Turn the filter anticlockwise with a cap-type or strap-type filter wrench.
4. Wipe the filter mounting face clean. Smear a little engine oil on the new filter's rubber gasket.
5. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket just touches (a small resistance is felt). Mark the top of the wrench or filter, then tighten 2 turns, or to 20 N·m.
6. Refit the drain plug securely. Pour in about 2.7 L of the specified oil.
7. Start the engine outdoors on level ground and idle for a few minutes. Stop it, wait 3 minutes and check the level is at the F mark on the dipstick (cap resting on the hole, not screwed in). Top up if needed.
8. Check around the drain plug and filter for leaks, refit the covers and dispose of the old oil properly.

Tools: Drain tray (5 L), Socket set, Oil filter wrench, Torque wrench (20 N·m), Funnel, Gloves

1. Let the engine cool and take the key out.
2. Remove the plug cap and plug, and cover the hole so no dirt falls into the engine.
3. A light brown insulator is right. White or dark means the engine may need adjusting or a different plug: ask your dealer.
4. Set the gap to 0.7–0.8 mm.
5. Screw the plug in by hand as far as it will go. Then tighten a new plug about 1/2 turn, a used plug about 1/8 turn. Over-tightening or cross-threading damages the aluminium head.

Tools: Plug spanner, Thickness (feeler) gauge

1. Only check with the engine cold.
2. The clearance figure and procedure are in the Suzuki service manual, not the owner's manual. If you do not have them, have your dealer do it.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Service manual

1. Wait until the silencer is cold: a hot muffler burns.
2. Remove the nuts and cover, then the spark arrester.
3. Brush the carbon off the screen without damaging it. Replace the screen if it has holes or tears.
4. Refit in reverse order.

Tools: Spanners, Brush, Gloves

1. Park on level ground, engine off, key out, parking brake on.
2. Remove the covers under the gear cases. Remove the filler cap of the case you are changing, then its drain plug, and drain into a tray.
3. Front differential: refit the drain plug tightly. Remove the level bolt and pour fresh oil through the filler until it flows out of the level hole (about 500 ml). Refit the level bolt.
4. Final gear: refit the drain plug tightly and fill until the oil reaches the bottom of the filler hole (about 770 ml).
5. Tighten the filler caps, refit the covers and dispose of the old oil properly. Keep children and pets away from it.

Tools: Drain tray, Socket set, Oil syringe or squeeze bottle

1. Work only on a cold engine. Never open the system hot: coolant can scald.
2. Check the reservoir level is between F and L; top up with a 50:50 mix of coolant and distilled water.
3. The coolant drain and refill procedure is in the service manual; if you do not have it, have your dealer do it.
4. Coolant is harmful or fatal if swallowed and poisonous to animals. Catch it all and dispose of it properly.

Tools: Drain tray, Funnel, Soft brush and low-pressure hose