Valmet 600, 700, 800, 900 service schedule

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the engine briefly to warm the oil, then stop it. Let it stand a few minutes so the oil drains back, but wear gloves because the oil can still be very hot.
3. Remove the sump drain plug and let the oil run into a container, clean the plug and refit it.
4. Unscrew the old oil filter, wipe away any oil that ran onto the chassis, smear a little oil on the new filter's seal and tighten it by hand only.
5. Fill through the filler to the upper dipstick mark. The two marks are 1.5 L apart.
6. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck the level on the dipstick.
7. Check that the crankcase breather pipe is open and not blocked.

Tools: Drain tray (10 L), Spanner or socket for the sump plug, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags and gloves

1. Clean the joints well first.
2. Lubricate the gear lever joints with moly grease.
3. Wipe off any surplus.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Lift the filter housing cover, rear first.
2. Take out the element, knock it against your palm and vacuum it from the air-inlet side, or blow it clean from the centre outwards with low-pressure air.
3. Check it and change it if it is damaged, then refit it.
4. If an upper filter is fitted (extra equipment), take its housing off the front of the roof and clean it the same way.

Tools: Vacuum cleaner or compressed air (low pressure)

1. Check the brake fluid is between the max and min marks. Normally it should not need topping up; a fall means a leak that must be fixed before driving.
2. Check tyre pressures against the handbook table.
3. Check wheel nut torque: front 2WD 130 Nm, front 4WD 300 Nm, rear 550 Nm, rim to disc 310 Nm.
4. Grease the door hinge nipples.

Tools: Torque wrench (up to 550 Nm), Tyre pressure gauge, Grease gun

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean around both filters.
3. Loosen the pressure filter housing, take out the element, wash the housing in diesel and fit the new element with a new seal (oil the seal first). Tighten the housing to 200 Nm.
4. Unscrew the transmission oil filter, oil the new seal and tighten the new filter by hand.
5. Run the hydraulics, check for leaks and check the oil level.

Tools: Container, Torque wrench (200 Nm), Diesel to wash the filter housing

1. Brake pedals: free travel should be 60 mm with the pedals latched together; adjust if not. The parking brake acts on the foot brake by a rod, so check it at the same time.
2. Propulsion clutch pedal: free travel 20–25 mm.
3. PTO lever: free travel at the end of the lever 30–40 mm.
4. Transmission dipstick: the level should be between the marks (3 L apart).
5. Powered front axle: oil level with the filler hole in the differential and in each hub (turn the hub until the line is horizontal).
6. Hydraulic system: level at or between 25 L and 35 L marks.

Tools: Ruler, Spanners for adjustment

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the tractor to warm the hydraulic oil.
3. Remove the drain plug, drain the oil and refit the plug.
4. To refill, first undo the breather filter and its fixing tube by opening the locking nut (the hole in the tube is too small to pour through).
5. Pour in new oil through the filling cap to the dipstick mark.
6. Refit the breather filter and set it with the filter top horizontal.
7. Start the engine, operate the hydraulic lift briefly and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (40 L), Funnel, Rags

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the tractor to warm the oil.
3. Remove the plugs under the gearbox and the final drives and drain the oil. Clean and refit the plugs.
4. Take out the dipstick-opening plug and fill with ≈32 L to the upper mark. The marks are 3 L apart.

Tools: Drain tray (40 L), Spanner, Funnel

1. Differential: remove the drain plug, drain, refit it and fill through the level plug to the lower edge of the hole (≈6.5 L).
2. Hubs: turn each wheel until the drain plug is at the bottom, drain, then turn until the inspection line is horizontal and fill to the hole (≈0.8 L each).

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners, Oil pump or funnel

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Put the front end up a little to lose less oil.
3. Loosen the wing nut, catch the oil, take off the cover and pull out the element.
4. Clean it in diesel and dry it with compressed air; clean the magnetic plugs too.
5. Refit with the cover seal and tighten the wing nut by hand.
6. Check the oil level, then watch for foaming when you restart: foaming means a leaking cover seal.

Tools: Container, Diesel and compressed air

1. Stop the engine, no smoking or flames.
2. Prefilter: undo the lock, pull the filter downwards by hand (no wrench) and fit the new one until it clicks.
3. Fuel filter: clean the outside, remove it, oil the new gasket and tighten by hand.
4. Pump up fuel with the hand pump until the prefilter and filter are full, then bleed the system as your handbook describes.

Tools: Container, Rags

1. Clean around the housing, take off the cover and take out the main filter.
2. Remove the safety filter, taking great care no dirt falls into the inlet pipe.
3. Check seals and sealing faces are clean and sound, fit the new safety filter and tighten its nut carefully.
4. Fit the main filter, tighten its nut until it meets the end of the housing, then refit the cover so the outlet pipe is at the bottom.

Tools: Clean cloth

1. Set each valve with the piston at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
2. Inlet and exhaust clearance: 0.35 mm.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Socket set

1. 2WD: grease the front wheel bearings until clean grease pushes out, more often in mud.
2. Grease the flywheel ring gear through the hole on the left of the clutch housing: one stroke at a few points of the gear.
3. Toe-in: front wheels 2–6 mm (4WD 0–2 mm) closer together at the front than the back.
4. Drain and flush the fuel tank before winter and refill with clean diesel.
5. Tighten the frame nuts and bolts.

Tools: Grease gun, Tape measure

1. Let the engine cool. Open the expansion tank cap first, carefully (0.7 bar when hot), then the radiator cap.
2. Drain from the lower water pipe and the plug on the cylinder block, with the cab heater control turned on. Turn the engine over a few revs to drain the pump.
3. Close the drains, fill the radiator then the expansion tank to the level mark with a correct mix, and run the engine and recheck.

Tools: Container (20 L), Spanner, Hose

1. Empty the reservoir, attach hoses to the bleed nipples and pump the pedal until the old fluid is out (it damages paint).
2. Refill with new fluid and bleed the system of air; bleed trailer brakes too if fitted.

Tools: Hose and bottle, Spanner for the bleed nipples