Valtra N122 D and N142 D service schedule

1. Three-point linkage: two nipples on the levelling screws, two on the top link, two on the lift cylinder lower pins and two on the upper pins.
2. Trailer hitch: grease the shaft nipple, and check the pawl returns and the hook has not worn below 44 mm at its thinnest.
3. Front linkage (where fitted): grease the lift cylinder pins and the lifting link shaft every 50 hours.
4. Brake mechanism: Calsium LF on the brake cam nipples both sides and on the sliding surfaces.
5. Front axle mounting bearings (lift the front a little and tilt the axle) and, on a suspended axle, the nipple on the subframe and the cylinder ends. Flexible mudguards: Calsium LF on the turning mechanism.
6. Check the belt condition and tension, and grease the door hinges.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Park on level ground, stop the engine and let it stand a few minutes. Warm oil runs out better.
2. Remove the sump drain plug, drain into a container, then clean and refit the plug.
3. Release the oil filter, wipe up any oil on the chassis, wet the new gasket with oil and screw the new filter on by hand without overtightening.
4. Fill through the filler hole up to the top mark on the dipstick, start the engine, check for leaks, then run for a while and recheck the level.

Tools: Drain tray (15 L), Filter wrench, Funnel

1. Fit a container under the filter and clean the housing and the area round it.
2. Remove the housing and the element. Wash the housing in clean diesel.
3. Lubricate the seal of the new element, fit it, and refit the housing: screw it fully in by hand, then back off a quarter turn.
4. Do the transmission filters (marked LUB and TRANS) and the hydraulic ones (marked HYD) in turn, then check the levels.

Tools: Container, Rag, Clean diesel for washing the housings

1. Prefilter: open the drain cock slightly and drain the fuel into a container (never on the ground). Open the bleeder screw to help it run out and close it afterwards.
2. Release the water trap and the locking ring, take out the element, fit the water trap to the new element and fill both with fuel. Fit it (it only fits one way) and turn the ring until it clicks.
3. Main filter: open the locking ring, take out the element, fill the new one with fuel and fit it. Turn the ring until it clicks.
4. Bleed the fuel system if required and check for leaks.

Tools: Container, Rag

1. Open the air filter housing and take out the main filter.
2. Take great care removing the safety filter so no dirt enters the induction pipe.
3. Check the seals and the housing sealing faces are clean. Fit the new safety filter, then the new main filter, each correctly seated.
4. Fasten the cover.

Tools: Clean cloth

1. Run the tractor to warm the oil, then drain it as the handbook's oil change section shows, with all rams retracted.
2. Change the hydraulic filters as in the 500-hour job, and unscrew the old hydraulics breather. Lubricate the seal on the new one and tighten it by hand. Change it more often in dusty conditions.
3. Refill through the hydraulic return coupling so the oil passes through the return filter and no dirt enters.
4. Check the level on the dipstick (front of the gearbox housing, left): between the minimum and maximum marks. Start the engine and check again.

Tools: Drain tray (70 L), Container, Filter-fill pump or clean funnel

1. Differential: unscrew the drain plug, drain into a container, clean and refit the plug, then fill through the inspection hole up to the level of the hole.
2. Hubs: unscrew the plug and drain the oil. Turn the wheel until the line in the inspection hole is horizontal and fill to the level of the hole. Do both hubs.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanners

1. Book the tractor in for the 1,000-hour service. The handbook says leave valve adjustment and power shuttle checks to the workshop.
2. Check front wheel toe-in yourself: mark both tyres at hub height, measure across, roll forward until the marks are at the back and measure again. The rear measure should be 0 to 2 mm larger.

Tools: Authorised Valtra workshop

1. Run the tractor until the oil is warm. Remove the drain plugs under the gearbox and the final drives, drain into a container, then clean and refit the plugs.
2. Take off the suction strainer cover, clean the strainer in diesel and dry it with compressed air (replace it if damaged). Refit it with its gaskets and cover.
3. Change the transmission oil filters. Replace the breather: unscrew the old one, lubricate the seal and tighten the new one by hand.
4. Take off the top link to reach the filler plug behind it, fill through the filler cap and check the dipstick is between the marks. Start the engine and check again.

Tools: Drain tray (70 L), Spanners, Compressed air, Clean diesel

1. Empty the brake fluid reservoir. Open the bleed nipples with hoses leading to a container (including the trailer brake valve and air brake nipples if fitted).
2. Pump the brake pedal until the old fluid has run out, refill with new fluid and bleed each brake in turn, with the pedals not latched together, until the fluid runs free of air. Keep the reservoir full.

Tools: Clear hoses, Container, Spanner for the bleed nipples

1. With the engine cold, open the expansion tank cap carefully (it holds 1.0 bar when running).
2. Open the radiator drain cock, the drain cock on the cylinder block and the plug on the oil cooler, with the heater control turned on. Do not drain coolant on the ground.
3. Clean the system with a cleaning agent from your dealer if it is dirty, then refill with a recommended coolant mix to the cold level mark. Never use plain water.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Hose