Valtra N91, N101, N111, N121, N141 service schedule

1. Three-point linkage, 2 nipples each: levelling screws, top link, lifting cylinder lower pins, lifting cylinder upper pins; plus the trailer hitch and telescopic lower links if fitted.
2. Brake cam: one nipple on each side with Calsium LF, and smear the sliding surfaces of the brake mechanism.
3. Front axle mounting bearings: one nipple on each of the two bearings. Lift the front end a little (not by the axle or weight bracket) and tilt the axle so grease goes in evenly. Suspended axle: nipple on the right of the subframe and at the ends of the cylinders.
4. Wipe off surplus grease.

Tools: Grease gun, Rag

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the engine briefly to warm the oil, then stop it. Let it stand a few minutes so the oil drains back, but wear gloves because the oil can still be very hot.
3. Remove the sump drain plug and let the oil run into a container, clean the plug and refit it.
4. Unscrew the old oil filter, wipe away any oil that ran onto the chassis, smear a little oil on the new filter's seal and tighten it by hand only.
5. Refill through the filler to the upper mark on the dipstick.
6. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck the level on the dipstick.
7. Check that the crankcase breather pipe is open and not blocked.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Spanner or socket for the sump plug, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags and gloves

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Put a container under the filter and clean the housings and the area around them.
3. Remove each housing and element, wash the housing in diesel and fit a new element, oiling the new seal first. Do not reuse the old seal.
4. Refit and tighten each housing to about 200 Nm.
5. Always change the pressure filters after any repair caused by dirt in the hydraulics.

Tools: Container, Torque wrench (≈200 Nm), Diesel to wash housings

1. Brake and (Classic) clutch fluid level between the max and min marks; a fall means a leak.
2. Brake pedals: free travel 70–80 mm with the pedals latched together.
3. Check wheel nut and rim bolt tightness against the handbook values.
4. Front axle: oil level with the inspection hole in the differential and each hub.
5. Clean the cab filter: knock it out, vacuum it from outside in or blow it from the centre outwards, and change it if damaged.
6. Grease the door hinge nipples.

Tools: Ruler, Torque wrench

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Warm the oil by running the tractor, lower the lift, then remove the drain plugs under the gearbox and brake housings. Clean and refit them.
3. Remove the suction strainer cover and strainer, wipe up spills, wash the strainer in diesel, dry it with compressed air and refit it (change it if damaged).
4. Fill: the dipstick minimum mark is ≈55 L (30 L available to auxiliary hydraulics); maximum ≈65 L (40 L). More oil also improves brake cooling.
5. Start the engine and recheck the level. After a short drive look through the filler for foaming, which means a leaking cover seal.
6. Change the transmission housing breather on the same visit.

Tools: Drain tray (80 L), Spanner, Oil pump, Diesel and compressed air

1. Differential: undo the drain plug, drain, refit it and fill through the inspection hole to the level of the hole.
2. Hubs: turn each wheel until the inspection hole points down, drain, then turn until the hole line is horizontal and fill to the hole.

Tools: Drain tray, Spanner, Oil pump

1. Clean around both filters. Unscrew by hand only (no wrench).
2. Prefilter: slightly open the drain cock into a container, unfasten the water trap, open the locking ring and remove the element; fit the water trap on the new element, fill it with fuel and refit it until the ring clicks.
3. Fuel filter: open the locking ring, remove the element, fill the new one with fuel and fit it (it fits one way only) until the ring clicks.
4. The electric feed pump bleeds the filters when the key is at position 1; on common-rail engines run the pump for 30 seconds then crank for 10 seconds in turn.

Tools: Container, Rags

1. Open the cover, take out the main filter, then very carefully remove the safety filter so no dirt falls into the inlet pipe.
2. Check seals and sealing faces, fit the new safety filter, then the main filter, then the cover.
3. Never run the tractor without the safety filter.

Tools: Clean cloth

1. Lift off the filter housing cover at the lower left corner of the cab roof and change the filter.
2. Remove the recirculation control knob and grille, pull out the old filter and fit the new one.

Tools: Screwdriver

1. Adjust each cylinder in injection order with the piston at top dead centre on the compression stroke.
2. Clearance 0.35 mm, inlet and exhaust, engine warm or cold.

Tools: Feeler gauges, Socket set

1. Ring gear: take out the plug on the left of the clutch housing and give a stroke of moly grease at a few points.
2. Toe-in: front measurement 0–2 mm less than rear on 4WD axles.
3. Empty the fuel tank and rinse it with clean diesel before winter; never use spirit as antifreeze in fuel.
4. Accelerator pedal calibration and shuttle operation: book it with an authorised workshop at 1,000 hours.

Tools: Grease gun, Tape measure

1. Open the expansion tank cap carefully (about 1.0 bar when hot).
2. Drain at the radiator cock and the cylinder block cock; on N121 and N141 also the oil cooler plug between the block and oil filter. Heater control on. Turn the engine over a few revs to drain the pump.
3. Close the drains, check the 2 mm restrictor hole in the thermostat-housing hose union is open, fill to the expansion tank level mark and run the engine and recheck.

Tools: Container (25 L), Hose, Spanner

1. Empty the reservoir, hose the bleed nipples into a container and pump the pedals until the old fluid is out (it damages paint).
2. Refill and bleed the brakes (pedals not latched); bleed the clutch circuit on Classic models; bleed trailer brakes if fitted.

Tools: Hose and bottle, Spanner

1. Book a workshop injector test.
2. Knocking at working temperature or smoky exhaust can mean a faulty injector; air in the fuel system also causes knocking.

Tools: Injector tester (workshop)