Valtra S240, S280 service schedule

1. Three-point linkage: top pins of the lifting cylinders (2 nipples) and levelling screws (4 nipples; the lowest ones are under the screws).
2. Front axle drive links: 2 nipples in each link, turn the wheels as far as they go while greasing.
3. Axle without suspension: one nipple in each axle bearing. Suspended axle: nipple at the bottom of the suspension cylinder.
4. Check the hydraulic oil between the dipstick marks (top up by pump through the free return connector to keep it clean); empty the quick-connector leakage reservoirs.
5. Check belt tightness (generator/A-C belt deflection 10–15 mm).

Tools: Grease gun

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Run the engine briefly to warm the oil, then stop it. Let it stand a few minutes so the oil drains back, but wear gloves because the oil can still be very hot.
3. Remove the sump drain plug and let the oil run into a container, clean the plug and refit it.
4. Unscrew the old oil filter, wipe away any oil that ran onto the chassis, smear a little oil on the new filter's seal and tighten it by hand only.
5. Pour approved oil through the filler to the MAX mark on the dipstick.
6. Start the engine, check for leaks, stop it, wait a few minutes and recheck the level on the dipstick.
7. Check that the crankcase breather pipe is open and not blocked.

Tools: Drain tray (25 L), Sump plug spanner, Filter wrench, Funnel, Rags and gloves

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Clean around the filters, open the return filter cover, pull out the element and fit the new one with absolute cleanliness.
3. Change the pressure filter in the same way and check for leaks.
4. If the lamp comes on when using auxiliary hydraulics a lot, disconnect the return-filter sensor wires: if the lamp goes out the return filter is the cause.

Tools: Container, Torque wrench, Diesel

1. Brake oil level between the marks.
2. Clean the cab air filters; check wheel nut tightness.
3. Brake pedals: free travel 30–40 mm latched together; adjust if needed.
4. Check the oil level in the front axle differential and hubs.
5. Front PTO: drain at the rear plug, take out and wash the filter in fuel, refit and fill to the level hole; check the two rubber clutches for tears.
6. Air brakes: pressure must not drop more than 0.15 bar in 10 minutes.

Tools: Ruler, Torque wrench, Grease gun

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. Warm the oil first. Drain from the two drive-gear plugs and the gearbox plug, clean and refit them.
3. Remove the suction filter housing, open the bleeder screw, replace the paper filter and clean the coarse strainer (replace after five cleanings or if damaged); fit new O-rings.
4. Fill the gearbox through the plug at the rear right of the PTO housing to between the dipstick marks (≈80 L); fill each drive gear to the bottom edge of its inspection hole (≈12 L each).
5. Tighten the pump bleeder screw. After the change run the tractor on the spot and press the brake pedals to bleed air from the brakes.

Tools: Drain tray (100 L), Spanner, Pump, Diesel for the coarse strainer

1. Park on level ground, lower any implement or loader to the ground, apply the parking brake, stop the engine, take the key out and chock the wheels.
2. With the oil at working temperature, open the drain plug at the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir, drain, clean and refit it.
3. Refill by pump through the free return connector (1/2 in quick coupler) so the oil is filtered, to the right dipstick mark.
4. Change the hydraulics housing breather by hand.

Tools: Drain tray (150 L), Pump, Spanner

1. Drain the differential and each hub, then refill to the inspection holes.

Tools: Drain tray (20 L), Spanner

1. Unscrew by hand, never with a wrench.
2. Prefilter: open the drain cock into a container, open the bleeder screw, unfasten the water trap and fit it on the new element.
3. Fuel filter: open the locking ring, replace the element (it fits one way) and close the ring until it clicks.

Tools: Container, Rags

1. Open the housing only for this job, take out the main filter and replace the safety filter, then fit the new main filter.
2. Check housing, pipes and joints are sound.

Tools: Clean cloth

1. Replace the two cab filters at the sides of the cab.
2. Remove the upper panel at the front of the roof, replace the recirculation filter behind it.

Tools: Screwdriver

1. Set 0.35 mm on inlet and exhaust valves at top dead centre of the compression stroke, in injection order.

Tools: Feeler gauges

1. Grease the flywheel ring gear teeth.
2. Check and adjust the toe-in.
3. Drain and flush the fuel tanks before winter and refill; never mix spirits into fuel.
4. Check the tightness of frame screws and nuts.

Tools: Grease gun

1. Open the expansion tank cap carefully.
2. Drain at the radiator cock, the cylinder block plug, the oil cooler plug on the right of the engine and the water pump plug, heater control open.
3. Close all drains, open the bleeder plug in front of the thermostat housing while filling, then fill the expansion tank to the level mark and run the engine and recheck.

Tools: Container (40 L), Hose

1. Drain the brake oil reservoir, open the bleeder screws and pump the pedals until the pipes and cylinders are empty, then refill and bleed from several points.

Tools: Hose and bottle

1. Book a workshop injector check.

Tools: Injector tester (workshop)